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Apr 4, 2012 | 10:31 AM

#31

Fordman49F1

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Joined: Jan 2011

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From: Indiana

I had looked some at radiators...as much as I would like to be able to afford a decent radiator, I doubt I can right now. Trying to retrofit another radiator in is an option, but I am not so sure the radiator is the issue...which is why I started this thread. I was settled with my problem being the radiator or lack of air flow, or perhaps other issues I had not yet seen. The main reason I think the radiator is working fine is that I hold a steady 195 while cruising at any speed. My problems start when the truck stops.

I will set the idle a little lower...closer to 700 or so. Maybe the issue is the mechanical advance is already coming in making my idle timing more advanced. I do know I set the timing with the idle a little lower than it is right now...maybe that is a big part of my issue.

Apr 4, 2012 | 10:48 AM

#32

AXracer

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Joined: Oct 2004

Posts: 15,882

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From: Durham NC

There is supposed to be a seal between the radiator and radiator valance, radiator valance and hood and gravel pan and radiator. See pg 79 of the Mid Fifty catalog.

Apr 4, 2012 | 11:20 AM

#33

Fordman49F1

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From: Indiana

I don't have any of those seals.

Apr 4, 2012 | 11:22 AM

#34

petemcl

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Joined: Nov 2011

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From: Northville, MI

Quote:

Originally Posted by Fordman49F1

I will set the idle a little lower...closer to 700 or so. Maybe the issue is the mechanical advance is already coming in making my idle timing more advanced. I do know I set the timing with the idle a little lower than it is right now...maybe that is a big part of my issue.

Have you had your distributor set up on a Sun machine or something similar? You need to know when that advance kicks in so you can set your initial timing correctly I would think that 550 RPM might be safer but that is a guess. The other thing that you can do is shut your fuel off and set your initial timing with just the starter turning over the engine. Your initial timing is important because if you set it with your mechanical advance already engaged not only will it contribute to overheating as Zoot noted, you won't get the full benefit of the advance. Lance suggested 34 degrees total advance but the link that I gave you earlier on 289s (FORDMUSCLE webmagazine: Timing is Everything - Distributor Curving for Maximum Power) shows that it should be set based upon compression ratio, but as Lance suggests 34 degrees total advance is certainly safe.

This is a quick and easy check and might save you some $$$.

Apr 4, 2012 | 12:51 PM

#35

Fordman49F1

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From: Indiana

No, it was never set up on a Sun machine.

Apr 4, 2012 | 01:18 PM

#36

petemcl

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From: Northville, MI

Quote:

Originally Posted by Fordman49F1

No, it was never set up on a Sun machine.

Then I would recommend shutting off the fuel and setting the timing with the starter. Wish you were close by as I have a remote button that makes this easy. Some day you may want to have your distributor set up on a Sun Machine but I don't think that it is critical at this point. This is an easy thing to do. Then move on to your cooling fan size, radiator, shrouding, etc.

Good luck,

Apr 4, 2012 | 01:59 PM

#37

Lance Hogan

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Joined: Apr 2007

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From: Charelston, Illinois

In my opinion, one of the best distributor shops is located in Speedway, In (Bubba's Hotrod Shop).

They can recurve your distributor for around $50.

Apr 4, 2012 | 03:08 PM

#38

Fordman49F1

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Posts: 369

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From: Indiana

Yeah, I am aware of GMC Bubba. He is converting an old Chevy Mallory double life for my friends flatty.

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Apr 5, 2012 | 07:54 AM

#39

petemcl

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Joined: Nov 2011

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From: Northville, MI

Quote:

Originally Posted by Lance Hogan

In my opinion, one of the best distributor shops is located in Speedway, In (Bubba's Hotrod Shop).

They can recurve your distributor for around $50.

I concur whole heartedly Lance. Jim Linder is a wealth of knowledge. I see that he has changed his website a bit:
http://www.lindertech.com/bubbaworld.htm