Sorry to bring this thread up but I cant find a definitive answer. I dont really use my heater much at all and I have a good quality manual valve I was going to install at the inlet to the heater core. Question is, which hose is the inlet hose going into the core at the firewall and 2) by just installing a manual ball valve into one hose does this screw anything up as far as recirculation? Seen the valves for sale that do this but really dont need anything like that other than just cutting into the inlet line and installing a ball valve to cut the flow to the core. Thanks guys

 

Nah, wouldnt screw anything up in circulation. The heater core is like a by-pass anyway for the system. Cant help with which one to grab, but considering that it is a "by-pass", probably wouldnt matter. I'd grab the one run'n next to the a/c motor, since theres 2-bolts there you can adapt a platform, for the ball-valve.

 

Ball valve will work fine. Just remember to open it once in awhile to circulate coolant through the core.

 

Thanks guys.....Looking at the sketches is the return hose going into the water pump? and the supply hose coming out the head? Hard to tell exactly....thanks

 

You should save yourself some aggravation and get the ranger valve. Ask me how i know, lol.....

Everco/Heater Control Valve (74809) | 1999 Ford Ranger 2WD 4 Cylinders C 2.5L MFI | AutoZone.com

 

You've got it right.

 

How does this work and where do you install it at? Any pics of it installed?

 

A few many beers into a project i was helping with, One of the buds rambled off: (a saying he used so he remembers how the hoses go)

"it's getting HOT in here, I am HEADING OUT it goes, It is so hot that, i am going to take my cloths off".. (related to some song he had stuck in his head)

He had to many beers and never took his cloths off. It was funny at the time. But i had to many beers also.

O yea, Got a ball valve on mine, Works sweet.

 

Ok I'm a little confused here ... So the supple line is the 1 on the head and you are saying that you only need 1 ball valve on the supple side and don't need to a valve at the water pump. Please correct me if I am wrong.
And ttmax where do you live that you don't need heat in March???

 

This reminds me of the colder AC by PaysonPsd.

Colder AC pictures by PaysonPsd - Photobucket

 

If i remember right, I put my single manual valve on the Core return -> Water Pump hose. My friend put his on the opposite hose , no issues either way.

A single valve stopping the coolant loop is all that you need. I picked a spot by the firewall that i can reach and turn on and off easily.Didn't need to drain the coolant, only lost a drop or two installing. ( cold motor )

 

X2 on Robin's advice to open the valve once in a while. Way too easy to forget about the valve, then the coolant in the heater core gets old and then ya have a wet floorboard on the passenger side and need a new heater core. I chose the ranger valve so I'd flow thru there once in a while simply by accident.

 

Meant to ask, why is that? And don't mean to question but it is more that i want to learn something. Coolant gets old and causes you to need a new heater core? I had a car in the barn 15 years, no circulation, Pulled it out, New gas and drove it for two years. No heater core failure. Maybe i just got lucky?

 

x2. I figure if its going to leak it will do it with pressure going through it and not sitting idle.

 

Pressure is there even with the ball valve closed and motor is hot. (single manual valve)

The only difference between the two different mods (manual or auto valves) So you don't have to pop the hood. I might do the automatic version because i live in buffalo. Wake up can be 45 degrees, need heat, and by lunch it can be in the 90's. Two hood opens in one day

Will the coolant get old or carode? Hot w/pressure or cold no pressure(sitting in the barn)?