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The only difference between the two different mods (manual or auto valves) So you don't have to pop the hood. I might do the automatic version because i live in buffalo. Wake up can be 45 degrees, need heat, and by lunch it can be in the 90's. Two hood opens in one day
This is a very good point !! Here in Indiana right off Lake Michigan we have the same kind of weather conditions. And sure a ball valve is easier to install but now that you pointed out opening and closing the hood a couple a day would not be fun.
And thanks Robin for the nice write / photos of the install of the vac valve set up
And thanks Robin for the nice write / photos of the install of the vac valve set up
Here in Payson, AZ (5,000 Ft) it is either Hot or Cold. When it starts cooling off I remove and plug the vac line at the valve so there is heat coming out the dash vents. That is the drawback to tee-ing into the red vac line, no heat in highlighted switch positions because the valve is in the divert position. Think about that before choosing either the white or red vac like to tee into.
Edit: Correction: I should have said tee-ing into the RED vac line.
Here in Payson, AZ (5,000 Ft) it is either Hot or Cold. When it starts cooling off I remove and plug the vac line at the valve so there is heat coming out the dash vents. That is the drawback to tee-ing into the white vac line, no heat in highlighted switch positions because the valve is in the divert position. Think about that before choosing either the white or red vac like to tee into.
Hmmm...i use my heat every weekday morning, and yet to run into this problem...heat, defrost..etc, all work Payson.
Ahh...not sure what my deal is, but if i leave the selector in a/c, max or "off", it build too much pressure for the valve and begins to leak...
Never had that problem with the OEM Ranger valve.
Besides if you used a diverter valve it should not build pressure, but divert the coolant back toward the water pump.
The diverter valve also needs to be oriented properly so the coolant pressure is not working against the operation the diverter. The valve I installed had coolant flow direction arrows.
The valve should be non-operated in the off position.
Meant to ask, why is that? And don't mean to question but it is more that i want to learn something. Coolant gets old and causes you to need a new heater core? I had a car in the barn 15 years, no circulation, Pulled it out, New gas and drove it for two years. No heater core failure. Maybe i just got lucky?
The anti corrosives in the coolant get used up quicker because due to the design of the heater core there is a lot of surface relative to fluid volume. Once the additives fade, the rust/corrosion begins. It is not a huge effect but it is a factor.
I love the pic hilighting which switch positions are affected, that's hard to describe in words. This was the first mod I did on my truck. I used Neal's writeup and I'm going to check out the link above too. One tip I coulda used: the Dinky vacuum lines had me confused until I realized ya don't stick the fitting into the hose like the old style big hoses, instead the hose and tee go into a short bit of connector hose.
Aren't the radiators inside the core assembly aluminum?
Another question. If i take off the degas bottle cap, What would the flow pressure be from the head output to the heater core inlet? Thinking about this option, Instead of a manual valve, Install this, Then hook it to one of the empty push buttons on my dash. Trying to figure out what the flow pressure is because of valve is only 1/2" npt. 1lb-5lb?
Aren't the radiators inside the core assembly aluminum?
Another question. If i take off the degas bottle cap, What would the flow pressure be from the head output to the heater core inlet? Thinking about this option, Instead of a manual valve, Install this, Then hook it to one of the empty push buttons on my dash. Trying to figure out what the flow pressure is because of valve is only 1/2" npt. 1lb-5lb?
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