I just bought my first classic truck today it's a 64 f100 292 long bed I bought it for 600 runs good and is tagged till July I thought I got one hell of a deal. There are a few minor problems with it like when you brake it pulls to the right...I rook the right wheel off and the pad were wore out so I replaced both sides and still does it I noticed a steel cable in there that my grandfather sad was a self tighting type thing do those all need to go back on? The front drivers side was broke when I took it off. The next problem is the sleeve on the column for the shifter is broke so it just wants to fall out where can I find a replacement for that? Then the last problem is the steering I really loose you can move it freely how do I fix or adjust that? Thank you for the help I can't wait to start tearing in to this thing.

 

Welcome to FTE

1964 was the first year for self adjusting brakes. Front/rear/right/left have a brake shoe adjusting cable, cable guide, brake shoe adjusting lever.

The cable is notorious for snapping, the self adjusters only work (if they work at all!) when you back up and step on the brake pedal.

The levers are right/left specific, the other parts are the same right/left/front/rear. These parts can be bought from NAPA and etc autoparts stores, since the parts are the same as:

1964/67 F100 / 1964/74 E100 (Econoline) / 1967/77 Bronco with 10" brakes / The (C1SS-2A179-A) cable is the same: 1964/79 F100 / 1964/79 E100/150 / 1967/79 Bronco / 1975/79 F150 / 1961/79 myriad Passenger Cars.

Which trans do you have? There are two different shift collars, one for A/T and a different type for M/T.

Play in the steering can be caused by: Worn tie rods ends, and/or draglink, worn kingpins, bushings and bearings inside the steering gearbox.

Brakes pulling to one side: Worn kingpins, bent wheel, leaking or inoperative wheel cylinder(s), leaking rubber brake hoses.

 

The transmission is a m/t 3 Spd. With this kind of a tuff do I just start replacing parts? Thanks for all the info

 

Welcome to FTE, post pic's when you can, looking forward to your input!!

 

I've been fixing my truck up for a while, and it has taken many new parts. I dealt with "loose steering" for years, until I just got under the truck and looked at the drag link and tie rods...they were all loose and worn out. Replacing those made my feel like I had a new truck. I was lucky that my king pins weren't worn out. Of course all the rubber brake lines and wheel cylinders might need to be replaced..you just got to check their condition out. When in question..replace it if you can afford it. At least you'll learn something new in the long run. If it aint broke though, don't fix it.

Sometimes you just gotta get in there and see what's going on and use your common sense (not that you're not). Look for broken parts, and replace them.

Good luck!

 

At one time (dunno about today), you could buy the 3 on the tree manual shift collar from NAPA, other indie autoparts stores as it fits more than just F100/250's.

D5TZ-7228-B (replaced CODZ-7228-B) .. 3 M/T Shift Collar / Obsolete

Applications: 1960/65 Falcon/Comet / 1961/77 F100/250 / 1966/77 Bronco.

There are 100's of these collars available NOS (New Old Stock) from FoMoCo Dealers, obsolete parts vendors.

CA resident, so CA sources listed first:

TOM HILLIER FORD in Escalon CA has 1 = 209-838-3535.

MARTY FRANICH FORD in Watsonville CA has 1 = 831-722-4181.

ROBINSON FORD SALES in Calexico CA has 1 = 760-357-3141.

MUSTANGS ETC in Van Nuys CA has 5 = 818-787-7634.
------------------------------------------------------
BELL-MCCALL MOTOR CO. in Hamilton MT has 3 = 406-363-2011.

PARTS INTERNATIONAL in Farmers Branch TX has 50 = 888-727-0418.

And etc etc etc.

If you live in LA LA Land, try: ENGLER BROTHERS AUTO PARTS on Pico Blvd. in sunny Santa Monica, the best dang autoparts store I'm aware of for older vehicles.

 

I found one online...it's for a 66 bronco that will work correct? And I'm trying to get rid of the rims that are on it and I'm trying to figure out which stock rims will work I would love the stock ones for my truck but I know those are going to be hard to find

 

I spend time typing this jazz listing the Ford part number and its applications, sources that have the part, then you ask if a '66 Bronco shift collar is the same or not.

Open your peepers and see what I typed in post 6 / Here it is...again: D5TZ-7228-B (replaced CODZ-7228-B) .. 3 M/T Shift Collar / Applications: 1966/77 BRONCO / 1961/77 F100/250 / 1960/65 Falcon/Comet.

And, btw: If this collar is used, do not buy it! The collar is made from el cheapo base metal, has a bridge made as part of it that you cannot see inside the column that connects it to the shift tube.

The bridge begins to crack, eventually snaps off, so now the shift lever just flops around because the collar is no longer connected to the shift tube.

This is a very common occurance that has affected all these vehicles since they were only a year or so old.

 

Sorry my bad should have read it twice

 

Ya that's what's wrong with mine but mine just comes out and won't stay in. The place I found it was toms bronco parts it says it's new and it's 28$. This is gunna sound like a stupid question but what and where are the king pins. I have been building Hondas for 10 years so this is a little different for me

 

Every Honda I've ever seen (including the 2010 Crosstour "She, who must be obeyed" drives) are FWD, have constant velocity joints.

These trucks have kingpins that fit into the front spindles, came with either nylon or steel/bronze bushings. One reason they wear out:

There are Zerk (grease) fittings on the spindles. Most peeps (especially today) were/are not aware that every 1,000 or so miles, all the various Zerk fittings have to be lubed.

Circa 1963, FoMoCo hyped that vehicles were now lubed for a lifetime (total BS!). Instead of Zerks, rubber plugs were placed in the threaded holes.

Peeps in the know, lubemen removed the plugs, installed Zerk fittings.

Besides the spindles, Zerks (or the rubber plugs) will be found on clutch equalizer (Z) bars, u-joints, draglink and tie rod end ball studs.

Zerks can be purchased from autoparts stores. There are at least two different sized threads and are either straight, or have a 45 or 90 degree angle to them.

87922-S8 .. Spindle Zerk Fitting-45 degree / 1/8" -28 pipe thread / 31/32" O/A length / 15/64" O/A thread length // 1961/64 F100/350 / 1961/67 Econoline.

 

Thanks for all the help guys...you guys are a lot more help then the import fourms they just talk ****. I just picked up a Grease gun and some lube and plan on living everything up. Where do you add fluid to the steering box and what type of fluid do I use? Can I just use dot 3 or is there something speical I should be using... I just got all new self adjusting brake hardware for it today then I'm going to order all new drums and shoes since the fronts are scored to all hell.... Again thank you guys for all the help with my first semi restoration

 

ACH! A typical mistake peeps make. Manual steering gearboxes use steering gear grease, not gear oil!

Unknowing peeps usually install 90 weight gear oil and...before too long...the sector shaft seal "goes away" because it is not designed for gear oil.

The fluid leaks out, the steering shaft ball bearings/cups, bushing on the sector shaft wear, the steering then becomes 'loosy-goosy.'

 

WELCOME TO FTE, Jstaabs64 !

There should be a hex-shaped threaded plug on the top of the steering box with a vent cap built onto the top of it. This is where you can add lube.

What I did with mine was: first clean all around the plug so no crud will fall into the box once the plug was been removed. With some gentle assistance, I was able to un-thread the vent plug and simply stuck my grease gun nozzle in the hole and pumped some standard NLGI Grade #2 grease into the box. I don't recall how much I added, but I know it was more than 4 pumps - but didn't want to fill it - as I figured it needed some air space inside the box.

You may also run into one or two grease zerks that won't allow you to add grease. When you do, carefully try heating the fitting up with a propane torch then try to add grease again.
If it still won't take grease, then try un-threading / removing the zerk (don't break it off) and clean the fitting. Once you've cleaned it with some penetrating oil/fuel oil/ gasoline/ brake cleaner fluid/ etc. and a fine wire.
Once cleaned, stick the fitting directly on your grease gun and see if you can get grease to pass through it.
If it still won't pass grease, then replace the fitting accordingly, as ND indicated.
If you do break off the zerk fitting, then you'll need to use an EZ out tool to carefully remove the broken zerk stub and install a new zerk fitting.

BarnieTrk

 

Ya I got to degrease the whole engine bay so I can find all the oil leaks. Thank you for the help. Does anyone know the size of the o ring on the oil pump cover that plate with the 4 bolts on it? Other wise I'm just going to order a oil pump rebuild kit