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Bed mounting

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Old Mar 29, 2012 | 04:20 PM
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Bed mounting

I have had the bed of my truck off atleast 4 times in the past couple of days for cleaning and swapping to a new bed and I was curious if anyone has mounted there bed a different way?

I want to use six plated up top with counter sunk holes for the bolts and then after it's aligned weld bolts to the frame that way I only have to remove the bolts from the top and same goes for reassembly.

Anyone done this?
 
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Old Mar 29, 2012 | 05:28 PM
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I would definatly NOT weld the bolts to the frame.
You could always use SuperDuty torx bolts and clips. but the clips can break and spin.

I just use grade 8 bolts and lock nuts
 
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Old Mar 29, 2012 | 05:53 PM
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Woops, I meant to say weld the nut's to the frame. Not the bolts.

Here is a drawing of what I want to do. These will be fitted to the 6 bolt locations. The bolts will be counter sunk that way there is minimal obstruction inside the bed. The plates themselves will be 1/4 inch steel and will be welded to the bed.

 
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Old Mar 29, 2012 | 06:55 PM
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I think you are making a mole hill into a mountain
 
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Old Mar 29, 2012 | 06:57 PM
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i think that's a good idea...would make life way easier.
 
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Old Mar 29, 2012 | 07:19 PM
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Well right now I have more time then anything so the mole hill doesn't matter. On the bright side, I don't think i'll ever have to worry about that thing getting ripped off, not that I ever did.
 
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Old Mar 30, 2012 | 12:12 AM
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Would just need a couple tacks on those. Dont need to be welded all the way around
 
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Old Mar 30, 2012 | 01:37 AM
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I would just do a few tacks, but I plan on redoing everything and I want it to be rust free, so I want it to not have anywhere to trap water.
 
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Old Mar 30, 2012 | 07:24 AM
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OEM bolts/nuts with anti-seize applied would be more than sufficient. Granted I don't live in a rust-belt state but I've never had a problem removing bed bolts, and I've done quite a few. No point, IMO, in re-inventing the wheel. But, "it's your thing, do what you wanna do".
 
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Old Mar 30, 2012 | 10:17 AM
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Would be better than crawling underneath and having the impact socket smack you in the face when the nut spins off. Ya, that happens to me every time.
 
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Old Mar 30, 2012 | 10:59 AM
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Where are you going to find a counter sink bolt of that diameter? You are getting into aerospace hardware to find a countersink bolt of that diameter, then the next issue is that the thickness of the metal in the bed floor isn't thick enough to get a proper counter sink. I'm not knocking your idea but there's a reason that the mounting bolts are in between the ribs in the floor of the bed and the bolt heads are rounded off.
 
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Old Mar 30, 2012 | 01:02 PM
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I am by no mean re-iinventing the wheel, as previously said, the idea in my case is to be able to remove the bed from above.

There are no dimensions on the drawing, it was for example. It may not be the exact end result. I'll by the hardware and design it around that.

~Kyle
 
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Old Mar 30, 2012 | 03:39 PM
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Originally Posted by diablodude64
I am by no mean re-iinventing the wheel, as previously said, the idea in my case is to be able to remove the bed from above.

There are no dimensions on the drawing, it was for example. It may not be the exact end result. I'll by the hardware and design it around that.

~Kyle
Ok, then use Superduty bed bolts and clips. DONE. No cutting, no welding, and no special hardware. Just a simple bolt in
 
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Old Mar 30, 2012 | 05:19 PM
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i like the idea of hex head bolts. and grind the heads done so they are flush with raised sections of the bed. it's how i did mine
 
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