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My 98 EB with tan leather seats is having problems. Both the front seats are badly cracked out and the drivers has even torn. Where can i get a replacement cover for the bottom half of the seat.
I have checked the junk yards, but most are either as bad or worse than mine, or they want $500 per seat. I really just need the bottom part, the back is fine.
Im really surprised at how poor the leather is in a rig this expensive. It only has 75k on it, and has been taken care of. Im trying to sell this thing, and the one thing people notice is the poor leather seats.
Thanks, I found that link just after posting my question. Have you ever dealt with this person? Or have knowledge of the product? I hate to spend the dough on a seat only to find it doesnt look right.
Actually, I have not dealt with him. However, based on his feedback and description, I would probably buy this from him if I needed one. It's worth the very low risk (I've had excellent experience on Ebay) to replace the cracked leather before the foam starts degrading on you. Once that happens, you're screwed and will need a whole new seat bottom.
Tony, as a quick fix, try the Mother's leather conditioner. I too have a 98, with the tan elather, and I have the same problem with the drivers seat. The leather conditioner, will soften it up. Just be careful, it will be a little slippery for the first couple of days. It also smells like coconut oil, wheter that is good or bad it moot, but just so you know.....Matt
I have the same thing in my 99 Eddie Bauer, 70k miles.
Mine are bad enough to need replacement.
I'm going to search and if I can't find something better, I'll go back to the guy on Ebay. Anyone else have other leather replacement options?
One of the downfalls of leather is the cracking/fading problem. I know it is too late for most of us, but the best way to save your leather is to use a product like mother's conditioner for the start, when the seats are new. Keeping the leather's natural oils is the key to preventing the cracking. It doesn't help that most of us have tan interior, which is probably the hardest to keep clean, next to white......................
My seats were bad when i purchased last year with 40k. Ive been using mothers ever since, but it was too little too late. I guess im gona have to go to ebay and get some.
Here is the fix, and it has worked great for 2 years. Has taken a little tweak though, and a lot of patience. Me and my to be hubby have 98 expy...his xlt gray interior and mine is EB with tan. Both in Outside sales, so our you know whats are on the seats all day. His split first, and he has the little perforations. That's one thing you have to get over if you have this. I bought the little leather repair kis at the auto store for $15, and it has a heat tool included.
SIDE NOTE: If you go this way make sure to get the ELECTRIC plug in heat tool. I have been seeing a lot of the little wooden stick with the metal circle on the end that you have to heat up. Go electric. The scar on my arm doesn't like it, just be careful. Touch it with your elbow, and even a growm man will cry. Immediate bad burn, white white white flesh. OUCH!!
Anyway, get the kit, throw out the glue and the filler. Patience on matching your color...insert the little leather piece that comes in the kit if you have a rip. If it's really big, use an old piece of large strong fabric or something. It's really just support. The color you mixed is saved in the little container until tomorrow.
Okay, you've thrown away the glue and filler, and go buy shoe goo. Auto stores should have it too. If not, walmart or target. It's a common thing. Use the shoe goo and fill in the hole or rip. Pull the rip together when filling. Hold together with saran wrap and painters tape until dry. May have to do the shoe goo two times because when you fill it in, it sinks down. The directions say to fill in with filler (now shoe goo) and let it sit for 24hrs. I couldn't because he has to drive to customers...so....saran wrap and painters tape works great. Just be careful when sitting.
The reason for the shoe goo is because I have done this about 8 times in a few years. The rip always comes back and the color flecks off. Well crap. How good is that. I ran out of the adhesive and filler, and I had shoe goo. WOW! The shoe goo is MUCH more still, not as pliable as the filler they supply you with. You would think this is bad, but it is really not noticed, and from the last repair, he's gone about 8 months I think!! Still great!
Okay, after all that, you have to cover the space you filled in the previous day with the color you mixed. Then there is a graining piece of paper in the kit, and you put this on the color compound and then apply the heat tool. It embosses the patern in the color. Don't touch! It takes about an hour for a big spot (his is about 5" x 3" of an area) but when it's done, the shoe goo and the store kit will work great, and you have spent about 5 hours of a weekend and about $20.
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