I want to start this off with a Thank You to all the members on here that have helped me with their knowledge and their moral support.

Since this is my second Excursion, I had done a V code swap before but I was not towing with my first Excursion and I just went with the F350 block and U bolts.

After reading and reading every post on the swaps I learned a lot of tips. Each ultimately helped. Each time I had different difficulties, and I am sure the third time will be a charm. (When I buy my wife an Excursion too)

I want to to give special thanks for the front bumper removal and moving the HVAC line tips. Saved a lot of time on the v codes over removing the blocker bar and not sure if the B's could have been done without it.

So here is the proof. The before pics:

[IMG]http://i935.photobucket.com/albums/ad192/apd9905/102_5313.jpg[/IMG
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The front measurement from the ground to the top of the center of the front fender lip was 37 1/2 inches

The rear was originally 38 inches, then I added a RAS which then brought it up to 39 inches from the ground to the top of the center of the rear fender lip.

When I did the swap, I knew that I was going to keep the RAS because I do tow a lot and often heavy.

Here are the after pics:









The end result was 39 1/2 inches in the front for 2 inches of lift and 41 1/2 in the rear for 2 1/2 inches of lift. Again the RAS was in the rear and it is adjusted to the lower setting.

Due to fact that I was going to still use the RAS, I cheated a little. I cut sections of the old rear spring "slapper bars" each is a 1/2 inch thick and the same length of the new B code spacers. I added one on each side under the front spring. I had enough material to put two spacers for a total of 1 inch, but I thought I would start with a 1/2 inch and if I didn't like it I knew I could add it later.

The good eye will also notice the new grille that was thrown on there too.

As for the results: Ride: My Excursion had not broken down the front springs into submission so I was not on the bump stops (yet) So the ride was pretty much the same. No big changes. The wandering while driving empty is gone. I also got a chance to tow a few times. Car trailer was improved but its light. I got a chance to do some towing my travel trailer today (about 9000 pounds). The improvement was so a dramatic I do not know how to describe it. The first time I towed it with the Excursion, I thought I took a year off my life it was so bad. Today was completely acceptable (although I never got past 60 mph.)

On a side note, the towing tunes I got from Jody at DP are awesome.

This weekend I hope to have my Hensley Arrow that I purchased used and I have been busy rebuilding done and my Ultimate towing rig will be done.

Again thanks for all the support and information provided on this site.

Hunter 9905

 

Congrats! Your truck looks great.

 

Looks fantastic! I may be adding RAS to combat the 1" of sag I get when towing our SAR trailer (8000k+, about 760 or so on the tongue).

 

Truck looks great! Really glad it is handling better for you too. I too bought a used Hensley Arrow and rebuilt it, you will love it! My ToyHauler runs between 9-11k depending on whats loaded and I have towed through some very severe storms with winds over 40MPH and have had zero sway! It makes towing that big heavy box a lot more comfortable.

 

Nice job! The EB looks great!

 

Looks great Hunter. I have a few questions about the install. You mention that you had a few difficulties and I wanted to know what they were. I am looking at doing a V , C code swap on my Ex shortly and I am a little worried about starting it and hitting something that I can't handle. I have read most of the steering wander compilation and Stewart's and Robert Ross's instructions. I would be doing mine in my garage without air tools. I am questioning if I am going to hit a bolt that I will not be able to remove. I will be hitting everything I can with PB blaster ahead of time.
I know this will not be an easy task but I am looking for some info from a fellow midwest person(MI) on how hard the bolts were to remove. I will have a torch and extinguisher handy.

Any advice would be appreciated. Thanks

 

An electric grinder with a 4" cutting wheel. I used it to cut the spring-to-frame bolt off (the "drive-shaft-is-in-the-way" issue) and when I needed to replace the front U bolts that I had over-torqued. PB plaster and propane torch did wonders as well, but my rig had virtually no rust. Maybe some other midwesterners can provide some advice.

 

I did my v codes and rear blocks with only hand tools. I didn't not use any pb or torch or anything. Just my arms and I can tell u, I felt it the next day. Mine came from the gulf coast of MS and has its share of frame rust. I did use a 15" breaker bar. As soon as taxes get back, I will be adding b codes. Not as bad but still have 12 yr old bolts that haven't moved in a while.

 

Midwest and suspension bolts? Get the die grinder and angle grinder out and lots of cut off discs. Leave the wrenches in the box.

 

Hunter,

Great looking Ex. I think you will really like the V/B/RAS combination.

Is that an Avion trailer in the background? Let us know how the Hensley installation goes. That combination should tow very well..

 

I'm confused. Why is that a pic of a TTB setup? Don't all 4x4 X's have the solid front axle?

 

And next... Is there a way to tell what springs I have on my Excursion now? When I bought it the seller told me he had put on a 6" lift. I have another friend that said they only added a leveling kit and hers is only 2" shorter than mine. Is there something stamped on the springs themselves that I can check?

 

Really read, study, or print out some of Stewart's posts. The post with the combined tips printed out in the garage would be good source to have on a workbench. Have a buddy help if at all possible as the springs are heavy and difficult to manuver around if your by yourself. Not saying it can't be done by yourself. I never seem to have a friend available when I am doing this so both of mine were done by myself.

You will need a torch just to break free any of the factory "locktite" on the spring nuts.

As for my problems: On my first Ex when I couldn't get the front driver's side rear spring bolt out because of the driveshaft. My thought was remove the driveshaft to get the clearance. I ended up busting two bolts in the yoke. So I had to spend some time getting the yoke off, the bolts extracted, retapped, and new bolts. When I all I need to do was lift the front axle up more changing the angle of the driveshaft and gaining the needed clearance. You can replace the bolt on the outside when installing and you will have no problems then.

When I was removing my rear passenger rear bolt, I could not get the bolt out. Spent over three hours on removing it. I was worried that it was a hard bolt to replace. It is not. My local spring shop where I had my custom u bolts made had ton of the bolts in stock. So if you get one partially out and it wont budge just cut it out and buy a new one.

Hint: Cheater and pry bars and a hammer will become your friends don't be shy with their use.

When doing the front, do both springs at the same time. I did not and had a tough time getting the springs to align right with the axle. I ended up using the rachet strap/come a long idea from here. It would have been easier if I would have just removed both front springs at the same time.

Good luck, but plan a full day start to finish if your by yourself and you have bad luck or make mistakes like me.

Hunter9905

 

That Sir, is one good eye you got. Yes, it is our 1984 34W triple axle Avion.

It is another project that I have been working on for a year now. We sold our 2009 38 foot Jayco fifthwheel for a smaller trailer with no slides. Our rv buddies think we are nuts. Have a few more projects to make it real nice but I just put 6 new Maxxis tires on it Tuesdays so the funds dedicated to it this year are low.

I am really excited to get the Hensley installed. I am really hoping and expecting something amazing.

 

Off topic, don't want to hijack, but is snowseeker a welder