Power Steering Slop
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Freshman User
Joined: Mar 2012
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Power Steering Slop
I'm trying to reduce the play in the steering wheel on my '74 Ford F100. It has a 390 with PS. There seems to be looseness in the joint from the steering shaft into the steering box and also in the directional valve.
1. I can't seem to find any replacement joint at the steering box. Anyone have a suggestion?
2. I also can't find any rebuild kit or information on the directional valve on the drag link. LMC offers one for $250. Do you think it needs to be replaced or is some axial looseness when not powered up normal?
P.S. I have pics but my user account says I can't add attachments. Anyone know why?
Thank you to any advice!
1. I can't seem to find any replacement joint at the steering box. Anyone have a suggestion?
2. I also can't find any rebuild kit or information on the directional valve on the drag link. LMC offers one for $250. Do you think it needs to be replaced or is some axial looseness when not powered up normal?
P.S. I have pics but my user account says I can't add attachments. Anyone know why?
Thank you to any advice!
Moderator
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 1,779
Likes: 3
From: Waterloo IL
Welcome to FTE. You can't attach pics to a post unless you are a site supporter.
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/subscriptions.php
So for now you would have to use photobucket and link the pics. Or what I used to do is host the pics in my garage then link those pics but space is limited.
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/subscriptions.php
So for now you would have to use photobucket and link the pics. Or what I used to do is host the pics in my garage then link those pics but space is limited.
Cargo Master
Joined: May 2011
Posts: 2,387
Likes: 138
From: Northern California
I'm trying to reduce the play in the steering wheel on my '74 Ford F100. It has a 390 with PS. There seems to be looseness in the joint from the steering shaft into the steering box and also in the directional valve.
1. I can't seem to find any replacement joint at the steering box. Anyone have a suggestion?
2. I also can't find any rebuild kit or information on the directional valve on the drag link. LMC offers one for $250. Do you think it needs to be replaced or is some axial looseness when not powered up normal?
P.S. I have pics but my user account says I can't add attachments. Anyone know why?
Thank you to any advice!
1. I can't seem to find any replacement joint at the steering box. Anyone have a suggestion?
2. I also can't find any rebuild kit or information on the directional valve on the drag link. LMC offers one for $250. Do you think it needs to be replaced or is some axial looseness when not powered up normal?
P.S. I have pics but my user account says I can't add attachments. Anyone know why?
Thank you to any advice!
You can also purchase a universal steering shaft from Jeffs bronco graveyard (or a number of other places); these usually need to be cut to size. The cost here is the same (about $250+shipping) plus the cost to cut it.
My end product was slightly cheaper and in my opinion better (stronger) than anything available to purchase.
Last thing... Many of the power assist systems are wearing out and have become expensive to repair. Lots of folks have upgraded to the power steering system from the late 70's bronco or 1/2 ton 4x4s. I am in the process of doing this so my shaft will need cut again. If this is something for you consider it before fixing any part of your system.
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Freshman User
Joined: Mar 2012
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Okay, I've added some pictures to my album: Ford Truck Enthusiasts Forums - 74FamilyTruck's Album: Power Steering
You can see the coupler in the view with the steering box. I thought of updating the system...but honestly I just want to get the steering tight so I can tow a camping trailer. Seems the conversions are either very expensive ($1K) or difficult to piece together (my local junk yards aren't the greatest).
I can get a cheap reman steering box for about 130 shipped, so even if I bought a new directional valve for $250 I'd be ahead of the game.
But, I can't find a rebuilt steering shaft/box coupler. LMC carries a nice replacement shaft that appears to replace the whole shaft with two U joints...but again it's $250 bucks. Ouch!
You can see the coupler in the view with the steering box. I thought of updating the system...but honestly I just want to get the steering tight so I can tow a camping trailer. Seems the conversions are either very expensive ($1K) or difficult to piece together (my local junk yards aren't the greatest).
I can get a cheap reman steering box for about 130 shipped, so even if I bought a new directional valve for $250 I'd be ahead of the game.
But, I can't find a rebuilt steering shaft/box coupler. LMC carries a nice replacement shaft that appears to replace the whole shaft with two U joints...but again it's $250 bucks. Ouch!
Cargo Master
Joined: May 2011
Posts: 2,387
Likes: 138
From: Northern California
I found that rather than fixing each worn out component that in the not very long run it is cheaper to simply upgrade the whole thing. For example that long tierod on the right side... $500. Rebuilt actuator $250. Same with the cylinder. After replacing all my worn out stuff an upgraded system from a newer truck is just cheaper. If your stuff is still in good shape besides the coupler then I would keep it until it needs worked on but for me... Its gotta go. At least future repairs will be cheaper with the stuff I am putting in it.
Cargo Master
Joined: May 2011
Posts: 2,387
Likes: 138
From: Northern California
By the way... I would try replacing your coupler first. The out going steering box i have that is identical to yours is actually in pretty good shape; no slop at all. There is an adjusting screw on the top of the sector shaft if there is a bit of play.
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