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Looking at an '89, tips?

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Old Mar 27, 2012 | 11:44 AM
  #1  
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Looking at an '89, tips?

Hey guys. I'm thinking about buying an '89 B2. It's a 2.9L 4wd with a 5-speed. Now that I think about it, could be an '87 can't remember exactly. It has about 172,000 miles on it. Doesn't smoke, looks like the engine leaks a fair amount of oil, but according to the seller doesn't burn any. Paint looks a few years old or newer, a pretty good job, but they didn't disassemble properly, there are paint lines under the back side windows. It ran and drove nice, transmission seemed a hair loud, would whine a little depending on the gear, but I had the radio off and it was faint. Kind of clunky/rattly over bumps in the rear, but when I opened the hatch and shut it, I though it might not have been shut all the way before, as I had to slam it. The interior is blue and looks damn near brand new, the whole rig is in really good shape.

My dad bought it about six months ago, and is getting rid of a bunch of vehicles to buy one newer one. He'll sell it to me for $2500, which is what he bought it for.

What should I look for? Good deal? I know the heads are prone to cracking on these 2.9's, but as long as it doesn't use antifreeze or overheat, it should be good right? Any particular places to look for rust? The rig looks like it was well cared for before my dad bought it. There is writing on the core support from when fluids/plugs were changed, etc.

I have a rebuilt 302 sitting around that is supposed to go in my wife's '64 F-100, thought about throwing it in the B2 if I buy it, but after looking into it, I don't want to cut the heater box and beat in the firewall. Thinking a 4.0 swap might be good down the road if the motor starts to get too tired though. Mass-air would be nice too.
 
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Old Mar 27, 2012 | 01:40 PM
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From: Coeur d alene, Id
they are good little rigs..however 2500 may be a little steep...but that is your call..as far as the clunky sounds in the rear.. the rear tire latch will clunk over bumps.. so i had removed mine lol..

i would go the 302 route if it were me..less headache over all adn less electronics..dave.. oldjunk93 has built a few of these and can give way more incite than i can..
 
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Old Mar 27, 2012 | 02:54 PM
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Originally Posted by im2tall33
they are good little rigs..however 2500 may be a little steep...but that is your call..as far as the clunky sounds in the rear.. the rear tire latch will clunk over bumps.. so i had removed mine lol..

i would go the 302 route if it were me..less headache over all adn less electronics..dave.. oldjunk93 has built a few of these and can give way more incite than i can..
I was pretty damn hot on the 302 (well it's a 308 actually) idea at first, especially since I have a motor already that I just built. I got pretty turned off once I heard

cut heater box
beat in firewall
Trans hold-up iffy
custom AC lines?
P/S?

Maybe you have some better links with pictures?
 
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Old Mar 27, 2012 | 03:49 PM
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From: Coeur d alene, Id
i dont.. but i will pm dave and have him help you out..
 
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Old Mar 27, 2012 | 11:52 PM
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From: McKenzie River
Originally Posted by hivoltj
I was pretty damn hot on the 302 (well it's a 308 actually) idea at first, especially since I have a motor already that I just built. I got pretty turned off once I heard

cut heater box
beat in firewall
Trans hold-up iffy
custom AC lines?
P/S?

Maybe you have some better links with pictures?
Cut heater box?............about a 2" square, turn it around, glue it back in.
Beat in firewall?...........No, not even......if you adapt to the stock trans. no action reqd., if you go to a C-4 C-6 auto, you bend a seam in the tunnel over for clearance.
Trans hold up iffy?........Stock 5 spd trans and drivetrain will hold up fine if not abused and driven like a adult.
Custom AC lines?............Not a clue, AC is not a big need in the PNW.
PS?..................................Never heard of a problem there.

All you need is the 302 (you have) bellhousing adapter from Advanced Adapters to the stock Ranger manual trans., motor mounts from James Duff, remote oil filter kit, Radiator from a 3.8 V-6 T-bird, Electric fan kit or the lowest profile Clutch fan you can find, Electric fuel pump to the carb, a trip to the muffler shop for exhaust work............voila! V-8 Bronco II!

2-3 weekends of work after you have all the parts.
 
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Old Mar 28, 2012 | 05:06 PM
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Originally Posted by Old93junk
Cut heater box?............about a 2" square, turn it around, glue it back in.
Beat in firewall?...........No, not even......if you adapt to the stock trans. no action reqd., if you go to a C-4 C-6 auto, you bend a seam in the tunnel over for clearance.
Trans hold up iffy?........Stock 5 spd trans and drivetrain will hold up fine if not abused and driven like a adult.
Custom AC lines?............Not a clue, AC is not a big need in the PNW.
PS?..................................Never heard of a problem there.

All you need is the 302 (you have) bellhousing adapter from Advanced Adapters to the stock Ranger manual trans., motor mounts from James Duff, remote oil filter kit, Radiator from a 3.8 V-6 T-bird, Electric fan kit or the lowest profile Clutch fan you can find, Electric feul pump to the carb, a trip to the muffler shop for exhaust work............voila! V-8 Bronco II!

2-3 weekends of work after you have all the parts.

Well that's quite the swing in the other direction. Do you have some pics of your engine bays? I read the article on James Duff, apparently the heater box with A/C has to be cut more than the non-one, they imply the trans will basically blow up the first time you got wide open, but yet suggest you swap in a Mustang T-5 transmission, which those are notoriously weak.

It would be adult DD driven, by me. I'm not worried about it being abused, but I went from it sounding like a great idea, to sounding like an expensive idea and cutting up a real nice B2, now I read your post and I don't know.

Would you have any links to some posts with decent pics?

P.S. I do all my own work and I build my own exhaust.

If I was going to do it, it would be EFI, probably with a Mustang A9L computer.

Power steering pump will bolt right up with the proper bracket?

I'd like to see how the A/C issue was addressed also.

Also, while I'd love to run a set of Mustang shorty headers, it looks like I'd have to use swap headers, because they will have to exit in front of the starter? That sucks!
 
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Old Mar 28, 2012 | 08:58 PM
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From: McKenzie River
Originally Posted by hivoltj
Well that's quite the swing in the other direction. Do you have some pics of your engine bays? I read the article on James Duff, apparently the heater box with A/C has to be cut more than the non-one, they imply the trans will basically blow up the first time you got wide open, but yet suggest you swap in a Mustang T-5 transmission, which those are notoriously weak.

It would be adult DD driven, by me. I'm not worried about it being abused, but I went from it sounding like a great idea, to sounding like an expensive idea and cutting up a real nice B2, now I read your post and I don't know.

Would you have any links to some posts with decent pics?

P.S. I do all my own work and I build my own exhaust.

If I was going to do it, it would be EFI, probably with a Mustang A9L computer.

Power steering pump will bolt right up with the proper bracket?

I'd like to see how the A/C issue was addressed also.

Also, while I'd love to run a set of Mustang shorty headers, it looks like I'd have to use swap headers, because they will have to exit in front of the starter? That sucks!
Sorry, no pics.........just experience.
The Ranger/B2s I have built are all but one in the hands of new owners I don't know at all, the one I CAN get pics of is a Ranger with a 315hp Summit crate motor , carbed not EFI, hooked to a C-6 in 2wd.........not much help.
Never built a Ranger/B2 with EFI or AC.

The last B2 we built had a 351w hooked to a stock Ranger Toyo-Kyogo 5spd, by the Advanced Adapters bellhousing..............As far as I know, it's still running 8 yrs later with no issues to this "weak" trans.
Mustang short headers will NOT work in a Ranger/B2, we have had to use the stock cast iron manifolds or gone to the Edlebrock Ranger V-8 swap headers.

PS pump bracket from most any non-serpentine belt PS pump off a 70s/early 80s 302 has worked with no issues for us.

About as much advice as I can think of right now...........not much help on EFI, we never venture into it, and prefer Holley carbs.
 
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Old Mar 29, 2012 | 12:07 PM
  #8  
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Originally Posted by Old93junk
Sorry, no pics.........just experience.
The Ranger/B2s I have built are all but one in the hands of new owners I don't know at all, the one I CAN get pics of is a Ranger with a 315hp Summit crate motor , carbed not EFI, hooked to a C-6 in 2wd.........not much help.
Never built a Ranger/B2 with EFI or AC.

The last B2 we built had a 351w hooked to a stock Ranger Toyo-Kyogo 5spd, by the Advanced Adapters bellhousing..............As far as I know, it's still running 8 yrs later with no issues to this "weak" trans.
Mustang short headers will NOT work in a Ranger/B2, we have had to use the stock cast iron manifolds or gone to the Edlebrock Ranger V-8 swap headers.

PS pump bracket from most any non-serpentine belt PS pump off a 70s/early 80s 302 has worked with no issues for us.

About as much advice as I can think of right now...........not much help on EFI, we never venture into it, and prefer Holley carbs.
I have no beef with Holleys, I've ran plenty of them. For me, as I get older, if it's gonna be a DD rain/snow/shine etc., it's gonna be EFI. I'm sure I can scrounge up a Mustang computer, and I have a good guy who can build me a harness.

We'll see where it goes, I haven't bought the B2 yet, and my wife wants the 308 for her '64 F-100 over the 4.9L we already have, but ultimately it's my call, as I'm doing all the work.

How much is a good, running 2.9L worth?

Also, any links to EFI-type builds? The intake I have on the motor now is the 5.0 truck one, which I've read won't clear the hood.

I'm wondering what type of EFI intakes will
 
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Old Mar 29, 2012 | 08:50 PM
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From: McKenzie River
Someone else chime in............I do NOT do EFI...........My mission is to RID vehicles of electronics.

However,.........If it really is a GOOD 2.9, you can get good money for it from folks looking to replace their basket-case 2.9s..........Enough to buy lots of swap parts!
 
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Old Mar 30, 2012 | 10:43 AM
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From: Coeur d alene, Id
sorry man.. i cant help on the efi part at all..i agree with dave..less electronics=less headache in my mind
 
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