Obligatory newbie thread
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Joined: Mar 2012
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SUCCESS!!! Well, sort of... I fixed one problem and created another... The truck wasn't running because there was some rubber debris in the float needle, which I cleaned out. Now it starts and idles, but it's spraying fuel out of the balance tube that runs between the float bowls. Hopefully it's just a matter of replacing the O-rings and it'll be good to go! Unfortunately I ran out of daylight and it's too big to fit in my garage. Tomorrow!
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Allright time for an update... it is on the road! Got a new Edelbrock carb for it after fighting the Holley only to have it still leak. Changed the plugs and the oil, tightened up the loose bits, and it seems to be happy! I took it for it's maiden beer run yesterday. What a blast to drive!
There are a couple little issues I've noticed so far. Firstly, it has an automatic transmission, but it won't start if it's in park or neutral, like it's supposed to. You have to put it in reverse to get it to go, which is less than ideal. I'm assuming that the switch that controls this just needs to be adjusted so it lines up in the right shifter position. Where is the switch located?
Also, the fuel gauge doesn't work. It has the two tanks under the bed, and I'm just using the front one. What are the common causes for the gauge not working? I'd really like to have that going, this thing is a little heavy to push out of the road if it conks out, haha.
Other than that it's been so far so good, I'm really loving this truck!
There are a couple little issues I've noticed so far. Firstly, it has an automatic transmission, but it won't start if it's in park or neutral, like it's supposed to. You have to put it in reverse to get it to go, which is less than ideal. I'm assuming that the switch that controls this just needs to be adjusted so it lines up in the right shifter position. Where is the switch located?
Also, the fuel gauge doesn't work. It has the two tanks under the bed, and I'm just using the front one. What are the common causes for the gauge not working? I'd really like to have that going, this thing is a little heavy to push out of the road if it conks out, haha.
Other than that it's been so far so good, I'm really loving this truck!
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New User
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Great thanks! I'll try to climb under there today.
Also this is a dumb question, but why are these trucks referred to as dents?
Also this is a dumb question, but why are these trucks referred to as dents?
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Post Fiend
Joined: Dec 2007
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From: Lost
67-72 trucks have a raised "bump" in nearly the same location, and are refered to as "Bumpsides".
People shorten those up to just "Bumps" and "Dents"......
Hotshot
Joined: Apr 2009
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From: Stanley, VA
This switch also controls your back-up lights.
Post Fiend
Joined: Dec 2007
Posts: 8,521
Likes: 16
From: Lost
I even remember having to unhook the wires from the NSS when I removed the column of the 74, and thinking I needed to make a note of that.
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Alright so I found the neutral saftey switch, it was on the column near the pedals. I tried to adjust it per the instructions in my Haynes manual, but it still doesn't work. Actually after I followed those instructions it wouldn't start at all in any gear. After some more fiddling I got it to the point it would start in reverse again, which was the case when I got the truck. Obviously I screwed up in following the Haynes procedure, so does anyone have an easier to follow tutorial? Or is there a way to just bypass the damn thing? It seems pretty pointless and I'd just as soon not have to worry about it. I don't foresee anyone dumb enough to actually need this "safety feature" ever driving my truck, and either way that would be a lot safer than having to start it with it in reverse!
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