Thanks, red.

It's a 2012 Coupe but will be a 2013 Coupe by June. The published weight is 3,820. Net adds/deletes for safety and performance leave it VERY close to 3,900. Even so, I’ve been estimating an even 4,000 lbs.

Squeezing an enclosed trailer from 3,200# and leaving enough margin for fixtures, tools, wheels and supplies is a big ask. By judiciously using the XL space INSIDE the van, I hope to tow as little weight as possible.

Hence the allure of doing without a compressor or a small, alternator-driven model and battery-powered cordless impact tools. I otherwise have a dandy 3,000 watt propane generator that's MORE than enough power the lights, a small air conditioner unit and fridge.

So, I’d IDEALLY like to squeeze-in the trailer UNDER 3,000 lbs., but I’m really on the bubble where a few hundred pounds would make ALL the difference between bare-bones and fully-appointed. Given the known similarities and differences between the 5.4 L and 6.8 L E-350, I have NO doubt about being able to tow safely or that 4.30 gears would yield MORE than enough extra torque.

It’s the liability that bothers me, especially in this era when EVERYTHING winds-up on YouTube – even before it happens. I’m really hoping my dealer can work a trade for a V10 – even if I have to sweeten the kitty. Otherwise, given the extent to which trailer makers are SO dependent upon the vehicles that pull them, SOME method for certifying additional weight MUST exist – somewhere.

Hell, if double-Mexican NAFTA trucks can roam US highways pulling triple loads, there MUST be a way to certify another 500 lbs from a van whose structural maximum is already established to be FAR greater.

 

Well, the overall limitation is the GCWR. If there is less weight in the van, there can be more weight in the trailer. I pulled up the towing guide, and you can see in it (page 22) that the E150 can tow more than similar configuration E350s thanks to its lower GVWR. Its clearly a drive train issue, not a chassis/brakes/safety issue. Ford certified the drive train to pull around a certain amount of ***.

All of this fretting aside, you may, if you so choose, buy a trailer that CAN carry the weight you need to in the future, and simply pack carefully and stay within your limits for now.

I personally suspect that the towing capacity of the T-Series (Ford has registered T-150,250,350, and 450) will be quite low. My gut tells me for its transmission it will get a variant of the 6R family found in the F150, explaining why they are pushing heavy stuff over to the F-SD series. The new T-series is supposed to be fuel efficient, and to get there they are making some serious changes. I really wish Ford would stop being so tight lipped about the damn things and give us information on its capabilities. Many aftermarket fitters will have to change how they do business (ambulance, conversion van, emergency vehicles for example) and giving everyone some heads up would be a good business move.

 

Thanks for the insight. However, along with the T-Series, which are damned robust in their own rights, not to mention their many available drivetrain combinations (FWD, RWD, AWD), they're slated for the EcoBoost V6 which, as the F-150 has proven, has remarkable towing prowess.

I already have one in my Taurus SHO, and it's bloody wonderful. Perhaps packing carefully as you suggest and maybe even going to 4.30 gears if necessary will suffice.

 

I hope to be pleasantly surprised. The E series is leaving a leagacy behind for the T-Series, one that can weigh up to 22,000lbs. Change is scary, but progress is needed. The econoline's basic design is several decades old, and its time to adjust it for the world we are in now.

 

Others (me included) have researched this issue and there have have been some lengthy threads here about that. Check out the Towing sub-forum on FTE too.

It is a loaded question and people end up getting other vehicles, I am afraid.

And yes, braking system, drivetrain, chassis design, steering, etc they all play a role in GCWR calcs.

 

I appreciate all the helpful information, insights and advice.

Before officially putting the thread to bed, I'd appreciate any helpful advice from anybody who's bought a trailer (enclosed or otherwise) as to whether or not trailer pricing tends to be fixed or negotiable - and what to expect?

Damn, I wish I had bought one at the depths of the recession.

 

I think it depends on where you're buying. I bought mine from the place I linked to above, and their prices are far cheaper than most other places and therefore they won't budge much. But most dealers wanting $7-8,000 for a 20-24 ft trailer would have some room to move on price.

 

I presume Featherlight was your vendor. I've seem SOME that are nearly TWICE as much (ATC Motive) etc for purely basic configurations.

With respect to the 5.4L, it's really going to be difficult, but I'm going to see if I can talk the dealer into listing it on eBay at a discount and buy my way out of it - that way I won't have to swallow the depreciation by actually taking ownership. There just doesn't seem to be enough V10's in existence configured the way I like - which apparently was otherwise about as expensive as an E-Series is able to be.

The only OTHER dealer I know if with a V10 is a dealer I'd done business with in the past - which would be a difficult swap since my name happens to appear on the window sticker of the 5.4L

It's really not like the old days when makers would build whatever dealers want whenever they want it. They're FINALLY managing allocations like businesses interested in making money - which is terrific for the shareholders but means ordering and waiting more often to get EXACTLY what you want.

This particular dealer has been very good to me and I want to preserve the relationship. I didn't even need to leave a deposit, but stiffing them with a truck on their floorplan over MY error just isn't moral OR ethical. If I can buy my way out of the error for $3,000 and re-order a V10, I will. Otherwise, I'll make do - add a transmission and differential cooler and keep 4.30 gears in mind while taking my time driving.

Thanks again to everybody for their insight and perspective.

 

I have towed over 6000 lbs with a clapped out 5.4L backed by 3.54 gears. You'll be fine with the 5.4L and 4.10s. Just don't tow in OD so you don't burn the tranny up and leave yourself a lot of braking room. Your van is heavy and a actually will be a better tow rig than most trucks for that reason.

Josh Quick
Quick Speed Shop

 

Thanks, Josh.

I've actually been thinking about 4.56's rather than 4.30's as nobody else's ring and pinions seem to come close to performing as well as Ford's own.

Maybe I should also slap a set of Brembos on all 4 corners?

 

Don't think that anything would be helped in a significant way. The factory brakes should be capable of locking all four wheels when loaded to GVWR. Of course this includes tongue weight, and any weight that's on the trailer axles relies on the trailer brakes. I'd focus more on getting great brakes on the trailer than upgrading the stock brakes on the van. Not all trailer brakes are created equal!

 

Well, today’s the day. The van has arrived and I take delivery. Unfortunately, it somehow arrived without the extendable trailer tow mirrors, so I was in for a rather expensive stop by the parts desk instead.

Too bad the 5.4 L wasn’t also inadvertently swapped for the 6.8 L too.

I’ve already been in the van and am tremendously pleased with my option choices – especially factory navigation and SYNC. It was inordinately expensive, but having the backup camera display in the MUCH larger navigation screen rather than the rear view mirror is a HUGE benefit – not to mention (apart from NOT adding dual-zone climate control) my E-350 is identical in controls to my GT500, Taurus SHO and my wife’s MKS.

I only wish, rather than choosing the QuietFlex Cargo System, I’d chosen the EconoCargo – as adding shelves would’ve been an easier and cheaper retrofit than the cladding.

Even so, I’m well-pleased. I s’pose I OUGHT to be. It’s apparently the most expensively-kitted E-350 this particular dealer ever ordered at $39K plus. Everything else, from the hi-po alternators to dual batteries, revised harness and power take-off options. All the MORE reason I should’ve gone with the 6.8 L V10 to begin with. Arrgh!

Spilt milk. At least I have 4.10’s to deliver a bit more grunt.

So, I now turn to preparing my E-350 to be the best, safest and most reliable towing vehicle I can – knowing I’ll be in the 8,500-9,000 range. I’ve been looking at a pair of helper leaf springs to improve stability and reduce squat under load. I can’t decide whether I should ad pneumatic helpers too. I’m also going to invest well in my towing hitch and related gear to reduce as much sway and spread as much load as evenly as possible. I’ll also be adding transmission, oil and differential coolers.

I’d welcome any further recommendations and suggestions – especially including the following:

• Vendors that offer SCT tunes to improve power, performance and shift points for the 2012 5.4 L.
• Cost-effective means of improving stability and control under load.
• Recommendations for necessary or beneficial gauges and related mounting gear.
• Anything else I may have overlooked.

Thanks again for all the help.

 

I put this on my truck.... http://www.timbren.com/timbren-appli.../FER35092B.pdf......but then I have a 7.3 PSD, and occasionally put a skid of shingles ( aprox 5000 lbs ) inside and act casual ...... They also help with side to side stabilty and towing. Empty rides a little rough....I installed it in my driveway in 1 hour ....

 

Thanks for the recommendation. Do I understand correctly that these basically work like full-time dynamic bump stops?

I'm thinking about starting with a set of helper leaf springs rated at an additional 5,000# like these from e-trailer.com given the benefit they claim to have for supporting heaver loads, tongue weights and towing while stabilizing the overall load. They claim to be a simple bolt-on and look like a good-straightforward way to improve stability.

e-trailer.com also has sets of front and rear helper springs that I'm likely to add as well - simply for the purpose of having four-corner control over ride height and load support. But I'll certainly look into yours too - since you're pleased with them.

It looks like everything else will be down to powertrain to be able to safely tow the 8,500-9,500# range I think I'll need with reasonable power. Ironically, I'm using my E-350 to tow an enclosed car hauler with a GT500 that once had pretty-much the same 5.4 L engine, yet I can't seem to find anybody who's as adept at performance tunes for the E-Series to help it produce some extra grunt. 4.30 gears are a last resort - given their dramatic negative impact upon fuel economy and the likelihood of long distance trips.

I've since picked-up the van and am absolutely loving it. As much as I loved my little Transit Connect, this a whole new world of functionality. I love the QuietFlex package and am already planning to have cladding installed behind the shelves while rearranging and adding some further organization equipment to make it as productive as possible. Hell, sometimes I think it only needs a flight attendant.

For some reason, however, the telescoping towing mirrors got dropped from the factory build specs. Fortunately, after sourcing mirrors from Ford at $550 ($800 retail), I found a terrific aftermarket vendor that sold fully compatible powered replacements for $200 that work terrifically.

 

I tow an enclosed trailer loaded with my racecar and gear tipping the scales close to 9,000 lbs. I currently use a '98 E350 extended club wagon with V-10, 3.73 diff. I just purcased a used '05 V-10 E350 Chateau van.

To help the handing during the towing I have done may upgrades to the Van/trailer combination.

Prodigy brake controller - Worth every penny!

Hensley Arrow hitch - Worth twice the money paid! Purchased the 1st one used for $1500 and did NOT get the warranty transferred at a cost of $500 Somehow bent some important parts while towing an obscene load and replaced it with a new one at full cost. Now have the lifetime warranty.

Bilstein Shocks - Much better then the worn out stock ones my van had. For a new van I would wait till needed.

Rear Sway bar - I used a jumbo one designed for the Motor Home Chassis. Makes a big difference in everyday driving with out the trailer and also helps stabilize while towing.

Poly front sway bar bushings - my stock ones bit the dust so upgraded the replacements.

Rear Air Springs - This was the last thing I added and wish I would have done it sooner. The ride while towing is much smoother. I guess I was hitting the bump stops more then I realized while towing. I measure the rear van height not hooked to the trailer then add air after hooked up to level. remove air after done towing and back to stock ride.

Front steering stabilized - Did the mode where you add the Ambulance package front stabilized. It helped the wander a little while towing.

Most of these items will be transfered to the new van when it arrives next week.

Good luck.

Michael