My van tows my 8.5x22 just fine, and the sticker says the maximum (on the trailer) is 7000.

 

The biggest positive from your purchase is that you bought one before E-Series extinction.

Disclosure: I claim to be the resident Transit critic here.

 

I appreciate your perspective, Henry. If safety wasn't a primary concern, I wouldn't be so vexed - hence my hope there's some sort of authoritative resource that's capable of certifying the vehicle for higher safe towing weights than performance or overall durability - as I'm likely to trade-in the van at some point before its warranty (extended or otherwise) expires in favor of the new generation of Transit-based vehicles with FAR superior EcoBoost engines.

If only I could swap at will the engine from my 2011 Taurus SHO in the meantime.

Nevertheless, the rated capacity isn't necessarily based upon safety - or at least safety alone - especially since the E350 XL's rating with only the V10 powertrain being different is significantly higher. In the interim, I certainly intend to do whatever I responsibly can to avoid spending twice for the same solution unnecessarily.

Clearly, the V10 is what I SHOULD'VE chosen, but the experienced input from fellow owners and members here seem to indicate I can adequately meet my needs with what I have - albeit perhaps in not as zippy a manner as I might otherwise prefer. On the flip-side, being the Mustang enthusiast I am, there's certainly nothing alien about swapping the 4.10 final drive gearing for a 4.30 ring and pinion set - or even 4.56 to derive just about as much torque as I please - which Ford certainly would've offered but for the impact upon overall fuel economy and the asinine CAFE mandates ALL makers are being forced to achieve.

I suspect I'll be seeking-out a lightly-equipped 8' x 20" hauler that I can further upfit and improve upon over time when both I have a better towing vehicle in the to-be-released Transit and a better sense of precisely which hauler upfits will suit me best - especially since I can achieve so much from and within the van itself.

 

Another cause for encouragement. Would you mind sharing your hauler's make - and perhaps a vendor you trust?

Thanks again.

 

Okay, just to ensure i didn't make a dummy of myself, i went and weighed my empty trailer. I wrecked my motorsport vehicle, so my tools and vehicle are in my workshop. I live on a farm, and have a very accurate scale (When selling cotton, I don't take chances, all trucks in and out are weighed on my CAT scale.) Unhitched, with the axles and the landing gear sitting on my scale, the trailer clocks in at 3480lbs (+/- 63lbs as of last months certification). I have a few cabinets, a rubber floor, 110V lighting, the compressor/generator combo unit, a winch, and some other misc gear inside. The trailer is a 22x8.5 (i always forget the .5)

 

My trailer is a CarMate 8.5x22. It was special ordered without several features to permit additional customization to fit my needs. Major changes from factory were a different style of ramp, changed generator arrangements, moving the axles a bit to fit my particular cargo weight balance, and different flooring.

Carmates factory weight for the trailer states 3425. But my configuration of course isn't the same as theirs. Most of these smaller trailers are built to very similar specs, using very similar vendors. Dont ever trust the wieght the dealer gives you. Take it to a truck stop and use their scale to verify. Most will only charge you 3-5 bucks for a non certified weight.

My personal opinion is, the wieght reduction comes from the transmission, and a bit from the engine. The brakes, chassis, and most suspension components are the same. Spring ratings might be different. Your e350 should do you just fine if you go with a shorter trailer, and arent brining everything but the kitchen sink. Remember, things/cargo/people you add to your van affect your towing capacity as well.

Edit to Add: You wont be able to do major vehicle work in a trailer. Even my former Big Hauler (41 foot race trailer pulled by a Freightliner) didn't have enough width inside to do major work. One thing i added to my trailer was a 20 foot awning, so i can pull it out and work on my vehicle outside the trailer. Its the best goddamn addition besides the compressor.

 

Thanks a heap, 95e. Looks like I'll have MORE than enough weight clearance. What a relief. I really appreciate all the suggestions.

I don't expect to do any work on the car in the trailer itself - except perhaps light under-hood checks. My biggest choice will be where to keep and drive a compressor - from the heavy-duty alternator and an invert within the van - or from the dedicated generator in the trailer.

Given the quality and performance of cordless impact tools nowadays, a high-volume compressor just isn't the necessity it once was. Hell, I may even choose to carry the wheels and tires in the van to boot. All I really want (for now) in the hauler would be a changing area and some basic cabinet and other storage for jack/stands, tools and basic parts spares.

I especially like the awning. Hell, if I could, I'd air condition the whole out-of-doors.

 

The determining factor will be GCWR. Changing GCWR is a legally-tricky / expensive subject.

Regardless, enjoy the vehicle. 5.4 is still a great motor, and no other van comes even close to what you just ordered.

 

Thanks again. By the way, how does one add a signature line?

 

Air compressors are power hungry. I wouldn't try an inverter. I have deep experience with this, as a HAM and county ARES/Emergency dude. My Emergency van is outfitted with a full radio station and some other gear. I elected to use Batteries and an inverter to run my ancillary loads. With 6 6v deep cycle batteries and a massive tripplite inverter/charger rig my van struggles to run a small craftsman air compressor for more than a few minutes before overheating the inverter. The ammeter shoots up to 600 amps while doing so. Then settles to 300.

Here is the unit i use; it is invaluable around the farm:

Amazon.com: Campbell Hausfeld GR3000 Power Pack - Generator/Welder/Air Compressor Combo: Home Improvement


EDIT
The inverter in my Emergency van is this unit:

http://www.tripplite.com/en/products...txtModelID=178

 

Holy Cow! You're loaded for bear with that thing! We'll see what I can get away with - I have the 225amp alternator and pair of heavy duty batteries in mine - with my eye on 1.3HP compressor that probably wouldn't do NEAR the damage yours is capable of (that's a compliment, by the way).

 

'Dual use.' Its useful for my farm! That's my story and I am sticking to it! It weighs about as much as the freaking moon (500lbs., 1/4 of a ton all on its own!) But its nice to just start its engine and have power, air, and welding all in one unit. I have a suspiciously large number of dual use items around my farm. The lift in my workshop? DUAL USE! It can work on my farm vehicles as well as my toys. The rolling tool chest? DUAL USE! The fridge full of beer? Uh... well, I DO keep some animal vaccines in there (though i keep no livestock) so, DUAL USE!

 

I'll back your story - anyday. Hell, I just got a letter from the IRS last Friday saying they wanted either another $4K or $60K (I couldn't tell which) for the same year they'd refunded an overpayment only a week before.

I figure I have an obligation for everything I own to be "dual use"... to make-up for the IRS's general LACK of usefulness.

 

If you attempt to power a compressor with an inverter off of the van you my be sorely disappointed. Remember that alternators are rated at peak output, which is not possible from an idle. Depending on circumstances your inverter could have a low voltage problem once the compressor turns on, and at this point the inverter will cut all power. Remember that automotive electrical systems are not designed to drive large external loads.

You wouldn't need a big generator, a simple 2000w would do fine to run your compressor. It would be more reliable and likely cheaper in the long run. From a fuel perspective it's much cheaper to run a 5 HP generator than idle a 260 HP V8.

 

Remford, Not sure of the year of your Mustang, I looked up the current versions and Ford says they weigh between 3600-3900 lbs. I also took a look at the Featherlite chart (link below) and their 18-20' enclosed weight 2600-2900 lbs. The 22's come in at 3200-3300 lbs. Or, take a look at their open trailers, 18's weight 1400 lbs, buy a nice used one for $4-5K, take care of it and you can re-sell it for nearly the same amount in a year or two. Good luck! Mike

http://www.fthr.com/userfiles/Car-Trailer-Weights.pdf