Well thats different... The valve in question WILL block a bank off, and be totally useless... However, I am totally aware on how the other way works... And I still think its a waste of time and money. Size the turbo right in the first place, and you wont have an issue... These engines suffer from not having enough fuel flow, not from having enough airflow (At any RPM)... So if you put the money into getting ahold of the right turbo in the first place, the issue of this boost valve becomes moot. If it was commonplace to use this sort of setup to increase spool-up time, you would see it all over... Factory and not, its not a complex setup... However, both the factory and aftermarket are aware that properly sizing a turbo is better. Like I said, this is for setups that rely on LARGE turbos to supply the airflow needs on the top end, while still making the bottom end bareable, its just a band-aid.

 

how is this stance? but not that paint, bed, or hood lol and add a single stack ??

 

You guys are obviously talking about a bank diverter two position flapper correct? One position divides the banks, the other position uses the butterfly to divert to the other bank correct?? Cause if you have any other idea in mind, it negates the purpose of have a true divided setup... If you do it as I have described, it will not be easy to do correctly, and still be effective...

I still think you guys are wasting your time

 

The Gnarl.... And only if its a Hood stack...

 

nah shes a sleeper...hood stack equals fast by default

 

I read in the diesel regs that hood stacks arent allowed.

Ya thats about what it is, and understand its probably a waste of time, and honestly ill probably never build, or get it put on. I think my turbos are sized pretty good, but if i can help the top one come in sooner, then thats not such a bad thing is it?

 

Lol Mike.... But the real question is do you need it to come in faster??

 

what color are you going to paint it?

you better put some dam good shocks on the front end to help it land.
what is that about 4 or 3 inches down?
id say put air bags in the front so you can adjust your ride height for a good launch. you know just high enough to put good weight on the rear and low enough to keep her from coming up. (i mean it's not like you have 1800lbs of engine up there to hold it down).

and are you going to use wider rear tires? do you plan on shortening the rear axle?

now he gets it. lol i think the hardest part will be getting it to actuate smoothly(due to the exhaust pressure on the valve).
i used an over sized housing so that i can cut it in half at low load and rpm(hopefully with good rpm response) and then when i get cruising i can open it up and have low back pressure. hopefully allowing better fuel mileage and more exhaust flow.

i am one of those people that like to have the best of both worlds.

 

You have no concept of how it works, and I'm tired of trying to explain it only to be told "you never know until you try it".... your setup is going to work horribly... plain and simple.

I know that I'm being a little bit harsh here, but this plan you have is not going to work how you think, and I don't want others... like Brandon, thinking it will either.

I am building his turbo bit, there will be no valve, or anything of the sort.

 

no...just seems like its impossible around here to find a good condition 80-86 short bed. other then the wheel wells, the lines seem to be pretty close...but notice the differences in the wheel wells in these different era pics...a guy i know is pretty good with body work so if he cant make it look good then ill just keep hunting for the right bed





when i get the bed this weekend ill line it all up and see how it would look as is....anyone have pics of a swap like this? early 80s parts with late 90s parts?

 

i haven't, but i am looking to put 87 front clip on a 94 cab

 

You gotta make um the same for sure! I'm glad you aren't converting to an OBS. A slant nose short bed will be awesome. As for seeing them together I'm pretty sure there is a guy over at OB with a bricknose style bed and slant nose front. IMO it looks horrible just due to the fact that slant nose fenders are kinda square and the others are round. They just don't really go together at all. Hopefully that guy can get um to look alike...

 

Definately stay with the Slantnose bed... Those body lines are unique to those year trucks, it cant be otherwise... (Even though I like the later lines better).

Man its not hard to shorten a bed, why not start with a slantnose bed??

 

Damn... and I have a good clean, rust free short bed that I'm not using because I got the flareside. Don't suppose it would work to stick a bunch of stamps on the fender and drop it in the mail for ya

 

Soooo, what is the "right size" turbo for an IDI with stock pump and injectors? What are your recommendations for the best turbos for this application?