Do you have both axles in at once? You should have them both in, then keep the carrier from turning(ring gear) while turning one axle. If the other axle rotates in the opposite direction, the spiders are ok, but make sure to get at least a full turn on both, as it is possible just a tooth is gone, and since the wheels got turned in the process of removal, the gears may now be meshed. It would also explain how you were able to get by and not know about it. When you go straight, the spiders don't move, when you turn, they turn to take up the difference in rotation between the wheels since they have to turn different speeds on a turn, the inside tire turns less than the outside tire on a turn. If one tooth is missing, it will allow the spiders attached to the carrier to spin without pushing on the axle spiders. That would also explain your clicking sound. The chunks would be in the bottom of the axle housing too, so you could go fishing to see what you find in the housing.

 

The clicking I heard was the driveshaft turning while in 2WD. When it quits raining I will put both axles in and try what you say.


Before I removed the gears, I crawled under truck and had my son put it in 2wd to try to tell where the noise was coming from. The driveshaft was spinning. So then I took it to some dirt I had loose and put it in 4WD the front was pulling but the rear was not. That was when I figured it had to be something in the rear end instead of the transfer case or transmission?????

 

O.K. I went out and put both axles in the carrier and tried spinning them. At first no luck. Then I held the ring gear with a screwstick and used BOTH hands to turn one of the axles (not easy then) but the other axle did turn the opposite direction. Played in the third member housing and found a ball bearing? That was all.

 

I guess I got a bit lost in this discussion while I was visiting Dad today, so please help me understand. It sounds like we've determined that the problem lies in the rear axle because you can turn the drive shaft and the rear wheels don't turn. Right?

Further, that the splines on the axles themselves look good. Right?

So, if the pinion rotates and yet the axles don't when their splines are good, doesn't that mean the problem is in the final drive, meaning the pumpkin?

If I'm right to this point, why all the testing? The differential has to be disassembled to determine the problem, and either you are capable of doing that or you aren't and have to take it to someone that is.

It can't be this easy, so I must have missed something while I was out-of-pocket today. Please enlighten me.

 

I have disassembled down to the spider carrier. Everything else looks fine. I found a ball bearing in the bottom of the housing. I have not taken spider assembly apart. I haven't ever pulled a Ford apart. The last time I rebuilt a Chevy rear it cost more than a used rear end. I just want to be sure what I need to try to buy. If it is a cheap fix I will go that way if not then I will look for a rear end.

I assume the ball bearing came from inside the spider assembly? Looking through the case the gears look fine but the axles were VERY hard to turn while holding the ring gear. Thanks for your help.

 

Old Blue, the code on your tag, 3L50 says you have 3.50:1 limited slip rear. Those units are not too bad to rebuild. The ball bearing sounds like it probably came from a failed wheel bearing years ago. The reason the axles were very hard to turn is your limited slip clutch is probably working just fine.

In order to get the differential (spider carrier) apart, you first have to remove the ring gear from the differential. Once you have that off you will see two large flat head screws in the ring gear mounting face. Carefully remove them, I used to put two bolts and nuts on opposite sides through the ring gear bolt holes to keep the limited slip springs compressed. Once the screws are out loosen the bolt/nut sets evenly until they are free. Remove them, and separate the housing. The side gear on the short end will have a splined hub, the other end requires removal of the spider gear shaft and gears. I think those use a roll pin to keep the spider gear shaft in place. Take a hard look at the internal splines on the side gears and the axles external splines.

You may also want to take the yoke off and look at the splines on it and the pinion, Gay Lewis just had one with these bad. You actually have one of the easiest rear ends ever built to work on, NASCAR still uses a beefed up version of this today and Roush-Fenway racing sells used gear sets for them.