I dunno,I've done a lot of towing of all kinds of trailers and I have never been able to fully loc up the trailer tires on pavement with any brake controller.

Gravel or loose traction surface? Yeah,no problem. But on pavement, never. But honestly, I've never really tried either. Locking up tires on pavement is the worst thing you can do and the last thing you want to do.

Just make sure that the trailer brakes are set to where they will grab and provide help. I usually run mine around 7-9.

 

Full braking won't happen at less than 10 mph. The controller won't let you do a tug test on a 5th wheel for this reason, but I have found on mine it is enough braking on the trailer to check the brakes before leaving essentially check your hooked up.

 

I completely agree with everything StevieRay2 is saying. I have a 2011 F350 hooked up to a 39ft. Heartland landmark fifth wheel. The brakes on the trailer barely engage with the controller all the way on 10 no matter what speed I'm traveling. It's quite scary to tow. I've hooked my truck up to my parents 39ft. fifth wheel (which is brand new) and the same "no trailer brakes" feeling. Their truck, which is a 2008 GMC 2500, will lock up the brakes if their integrated controller is set to 10. 7 is about as high as you want the brakes set on their GMC. I've not taken my truck to the dealer about this yet, but it does seem to be something wrong with the truck, not with the trailer. Any ideas would be greatly appreciated.

 

He's talking about a 2011/2012 model. The problem you describe was resolved in 2006. My '06 F-350 had no problem locking the brakes at a dead stop for a tug test - ditto for my 2011 F-450.

And this was with my 2007 HitchHiker with Dexter electric over hydraulic brake actuator and my 2011 HitchHiker with a Carlisle electric over hydraulic brake actuator.

 

I had a BrakeSmart in the 04 F250 6.0 and though the 2011 F350 6.7 is a better towing truck, I miss that brake controller. I got used to seeing the brake cylinder pressure being developed and shown in the display. And, it did seem to be more sensitive than the controller on the 2011.

However, though I'm not as fond of this brake controller, I sure am happier with the overall truck. Actually there is no comparison. Quieter, better mpg better seats and of course there is the great Sirius radio.


Jim

 

My last tow on the Airstream was from Oklahoma City back to Lake Charles following repairs from a tire blowout we had last Nov. which did $7k damage to our trailer. That is when I noticed the problem. Trip up seem to be fine. But then again I was not use to pulling with such a beast of a truck and may have not noticed. I did perform my normal check before leaving which is to slide the manual override to full braking and see that the brakes hold while still in the driveway. I did the same before leaving the dealer in OK and that is when I noticed the brakes were not working. I checked the connections, fluid level and all seemed to be fine. Bad weather was moving in with the threat of hail and I wanted to get ahead of it ASAP. Several times on the way back when I was having to brake for a signal light I would move the manual slide over for a brake test and nothing would happen. Got back and did a bit of testing. Bled all of the brake lines thinking there may be some air in the system. Checked the voltage on the "blue" wire as instructed by Dexter and had the full 12 volts with manual slide all the way over. Brakes would never hold. Pulled the breakaway switch and the brakes quickly locked up. I'm currently not home but have more checks to make once I'm back home. I've always been use to being able to lock these brakes when needed. We once got caught on an icy road and we started to jackknife and if it had not been for being able to manually control the trailer brakes while not touching the truck brakes, the outcome could have been bad. I was able to straighten out the rig by working the trailer brakes manually. I'm not through with Ford and Dexter yet. Just ran out of time before I could resolve the issue. Thanks for all of the comments..... SteveRay

 

1 - Sounds like something changed (broke) between your trip out and your trip back.
2 - Voltage is not always a good check for the brake controller - you need to be able to check current flow as well.
3 - Your dealer should have a test device they can plug into the trailer connector to diagnose problems with the controller. It is a two-way device in that it not only applies the brakes, but checks to see if the brakes are there to start with (Trailer disconnected warnings).

It sounds to me like the problem is definitely in the truck, and it's unfortunate that Ford and Dexter will blame each other's systems without trying to cooperate to find a solution to your problem.

The only way you'll convince Ford there is a problem will be to take the trailer when you go to the dealership and ask them to prove it is a trailer problem by hooking it to any other truck on their lot.

 

Your better off contacting Dexter.
If the Dexter kit is using the Carlisle brake actuator - it is compatible.

 

I have a 2012 F550, when I plug my 2011 DRV Mobile Suites up the display reads "no trailer connected". I tried the controller set for both electric and electric over hydraulic settings. On my 2011 MS DRV used Kodiak disc brakes on Lippert 8k axles.

 

Your 2012 should be under warranty. Take it in and let this figure it out. If it reads trailer disconnected then I would suspect a wiring issue at the plug by the receiver.

 

Out of warranty, 128k. I will let them check it for me. Thanks.

 

It's not so much the Kodiak brakes but what pump you have driving them. I just installed the dexter pump on my trailer and when I asked dexter to make sure it would work with the ford controller they said that ford was changing the programming again that was more like Chevy and might not work with 2012's and newer. My suggestion would be find out what pump you have driving your brakes and check with them. There might be an intermediate device like what Carlisle has that can be installed inline.

 

This is an ongoing problem with the hydraulic systems. You would think manufacturers stay in close contact with one another, but they do not.

Either have someone plug a standard tester into the seven pin on the truck or do it yourself. If the controller works with it, the board for the pump and the controller on the truck are speaking different languages. Good luck,

Steve

 

It was the blue brake wire at the truck bed connection was broken. Found it after taking off what seemed like 17 miles of electrical tape.

 

Glad you reported back on the fix.