Gas Gauge wireing
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Freshman User
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Gas Gauge wireing
Hi i just bought an 85 f250.lifted with a 351w.but the gas gauge dont work and i was wondering if anyone could tell me how to wire one in it.or maybe have a diagram or pics on how to.thanks
Senior User
Joined: Feb 2012
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From: Grants Pass, OR
Does the oil and temp gauge work? If they are working then the problem is most likely elsewhere like the tank sender.
I have some diagrams here:
http://75.95.181.105:86/F150/Dual_Tank_Selector.html
I have some diagrams here:
http://75.95.181.105:86/F150/Dual_Tank_Selector.html
Freshman User
Joined: Nov 2010
Posts: 28
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Does the oil and temp gauge work? If they are working then the problem is most likely elsewhere like the tank sender.
I have some diagrams here:
http://75.95.181.105:86/F150/Dual_Tank_Selector.html
I have some diagrams here:
http://75.95.181.105:86/F150/Dual_Tank_Selector.html
FTE Legend
Joined: Jul 2010
Posts: 32,875
Likes: 48
From: Northeast, OK
Have someone watch the gas gauge while you ground the wire that goes to the sending unit in the tank, which you can just pull off the stud of the sending unit. With the key on and that wire grounded the gauge should go to Full, although it takes a few seconds.
If that doesn't work the problem is in the wiring. If it does work the problem is with the sending unit. The bolts holding the tank in are usually long enough you can lower the tank and get the sending unit out w/o taking the tank out all the way.
Does the oil pressure gauge work?
If that doesn't work the problem is in the wiring. If it does work the problem is with the sending unit. The bolts holding the tank in are usually long enough you can lower the tank and get the sending unit out w/o taking the tank out all the way.
Does the oil pressure gauge work?
Senior User
Joined: Feb 2012
Posts: 177
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From: Grants Pass, OR
If one or more of those work then I would look at the senders(s).
Senior User
Joined: Feb 2012
Posts: 177
Likes: 0
From: Grants Pass, OR
Have someone watch the gas gauge while you ground the wire that goes to the sending unit in the tank, which you can just pull off the stud of the sending unit. With the key on and that wire grounded the gauge should go to Full, although it takes a few seconds.
If that doesn't work the problem is in the wiring. If it does work the problem is with the sending unit. The bolts holding the tank in are usually long enough you can lower the tank and get the sending unit out w/o taking the tank out all the way.
Does the oil pressure gauge work?
If that doesn't work the problem is in the wiring. If it does work the problem is with the sending unit. The bolts holding the tank in are usually long enough you can lower the tank and get the sending unit out w/o taking the tank out all the way.
Does the oil pressure gauge work?
FTE Legend
Joined: Jul 2010
Posts: 32,875
Likes: 48
From: Northeast, OK
The fuel, coolant temp, and oil gauge are all powered by a voltage regulator in the instrument panel. It pulses 5 volts DC. If all 3 gauges don't work then the problem is likely with the VR or wiring to it.
If one or more of those work then I would look at the senders(s).
If one or more of those work then I would look at the senders(s).
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FTE Legend
Joined: Jul 2010
Posts: 32,875
Likes: 48
From: Northeast, OK
Having said that, my lawyer son would urge me to also say "but I am not accepting responsibility for any damages that might ensue".
Again, what you are saying is accurate. But, the quick and dirty grounding test has also worked for years.On the other hand, checking the voltage at the connector is something I hadn't thought of, and it is a one-man operation. Duh! So, I vote for that test. If you have the roughly 5 volts you'll know that both the voltage regulator and the wiring are good, so the problem must be the sender, which is frequently where the problem is since it sits in gasoline all day long.
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Senior User
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From: Grants Pass, OR
That is what the manual says, but few of us have those resistors available. And, while it may be possible to cause some damage if the wire were grounded for hours, since the current is turned into heat that actually moves the gauge it should not be a problem if done for short periods. Many of us have done it with no problems.
Having said that, my lawyer son would urge me to also say "but I am not accepting responsibility for any damages that might ensue". Again, what you are saying is accurate. But, the quick and dirty grounding test has also worked for years.
On the other hand, checking the voltage at the connector is something I hadn't thought of, and it is a one-man operation. Duh! So, I vote for that test. If you have the roughly 5 volts you'll know that both the voltage regulator and the wiring are good, so the problem must be the sender, which is frequently where the problem is since it sits in gasoline all day long.
Having said that, my lawyer son would urge me to also say "but I am not accepting responsibility for any damages that might ensue".
Again, what you are saying is accurate. But, the quick and dirty grounding test has also worked for years.On the other hand, checking the voltage at the connector is something I hadn't thought of, and it is a one-man operation. Duh! So, I vote for that test. If you have the roughly 5 volts you'll know that both the voltage regulator and the wiring are good, so the problem must be the sender, which is frequently where the problem is since it sits in gasoline all day long.
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