front end issues
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Junior User
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front end issues
I recently purchased a 1991 F250 with 94 thousand miles on it. It makes this popping noise at low speedw when turning the steering wheel. It sounds like it's coming from the left front. I got under the truck and tried moving things around but didn't have any luck.
Also, the alignment seems off. It wants to turn right. With a truck like this, what seems to be a weak spot I could try fixing? I want to avoid doing a total front end rebuild, especially with such low mileage? Are the ball joints a likely culprit or not? I've heard some say they don't last on these trucks and some say they don't go out because it's a twin I-beam suspension.
Also, the alignment seems off. It wants to turn right. With a truck like this, what seems to be a weak spot I could try fixing? I want to avoid doing a total front end rebuild, especially with such low mileage? Are the ball joints a likely culprit or not? I've heard some say they don't last on these trucks and some say they don't go out because it's a twin I-beam suspension.
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Hit up all the grease fittings and see if it has any effect. when you say it "want's to turn right" do you mean with the steering wheel centered? Or does it keep pulling right with the steering wheel already slightly turned to compensate?
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I have to keep the steering wheel turned a little to the left. If I kept the wheel centered, it will drift over to the right. I noticed the lower ball joints don't have grease fittings. I've been reading about "radius rod bushings" and something about taking a rivet out and replacing it with a bolt. I plan on getting a Chilton's for this and maybe I should try the radius rod bushings for the heck of it, but I'm sure Chilton's won't talk about "real world" solutions like replacing rivets with bolts. All the rubber looks prettty intact from what I see... though it is 21 years old of course.
I will try jacking the truck up and seeling what the ball joints do. When jacking a twin i-beam i should place the jack under the lower ball joint? I'm used to a big crossmember and independent front suspension.
I will try jacking the truck up and seeling what the ball joints do. When jacking a twin i-beam i should place the jack under the lower ball joint? I'm used to a big crossmember and independent front suspension.
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Joined: Oct 2010
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If it remains straight with the wheel turned just a bit left then it is just an alignment issue. Next time you get front tires they should fix it for free. Is this a 4 wd or a 2 wd. Determine what kind of font end you have. (example: I have a 4wd with a dana 44 front end) Once you do that search this site and the internet using your type of front end as one of the parameters and "common problems" "common issues" to refine your search.
Post Fiend
Joined: Nov 2005
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From: Charles Town, W bygod Va
I have to keep the steering wheel turned a little to the left. If I kept the wheel centered, it will drift over to the right. I noticed the lower ball joints don't have grease fittings. I've been reading about "radius rod bushings" and something about taking a rivet out and replacing it with a bolt. I plan on getting a Chilton's for this and maybe I should try the radius rod bushings for the heck of it, but I'm sure Chilton's won't talk about "real world" solutions like replacing rivets with bolts. All the rubber looks prettty intact from what I see... though it is 21 years old of course.
I will try jacking the truck up and seeling what the ball joints do. When jacking a twin i-beam i should place the jack under the lower ball joint? I'm used to a big crossmember and independent front suspension.
I will try jacking the truck up and seeling what the ball joints do. When jacking a twin i-beam i should place the jack under the lower ball joint? I'm used to a big crossmember and independent front suspension.
You wont be able to get the jack under the ball joint itself, just jack it up by the traction beam, the one that houses the drive axlem out as close to the wheel as you can. Grab the wheel at 6 and 12;00, and give it a firm shakedown. Pull out on the bottom of the tire while pushing in on the top and vice-versa. If you feel any play it is either wheel bearings or ball joints. You will need a helper to be able to tell which it is. Since you have no grease fittings in the lowers they are probably OE.
FTE Legend
Joined: Jun 2006
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From: Ottawa, Ontario
While that's a good test for a loose joint it won't tell you if you have a dry seized joint.. which is what happens first if the vehicle has been sitting for some time. To test for that you have to disconnect the tierods and try to rotate the wheel through it's steering arc, and obviously it should move smoothly and without any resistance. If it doesn't one or more ball joints could be seized but also pay close attention to the outer driveshaft U-joint(on 4x4 models) as this too will restrict movement when it seizes.. which is real common.
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Post Fiend
Joined: Nov 2005
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From: Charles Town, W bygod Va
While that's a good test for a loose joint it won't tell you if you have a dry seized joint.. which is what happens first if the vehicle has been sitting for some time. To test for that you have to disconnect the tierods and try to rotate the wheel through it's steering arc, and obviously it should move smoothly and without any resistance. If it doesn't one or more ball joints could be seized but also pay close attention to the outer driveshaft U-joint(on 4x4 models) as this too will restrict movement when it seizes.. which is real common.
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Junior User
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It's only a 2 wheel drive. I jacked the front up and noticed there was a little play in the wheels when grabbing the 12 and 6 oclock position, but I tracked it down to bearings being a little loose. I tightened them just a hair. Only one cotter pin slot over. That took care of that. But still get some noise and pulling to the left.
I'm guessing that 20 year old bushings are shot? Because to me if alignment is off, that means something happened to make it be off.
I'm guessing that 20 year old bushings are shot? Because to me if alignment is off, that means something happened to make it be off.
Cargo Master
Joined: Jan 2011
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From: Edmonton AB, Canada
Any slop in the wheel at 9 & 3?
You should be able to tell by looking at the radius arm bushings if they're bad. With tire on the ground and truck in park rol the front tire forward. If the bushing is bad you should see play in it this way
You should be able to tell by looking at the radius arm bushings if they're bad. With tire on the ground and truck in park rol the front tire forward. If the bushing is bad you should see play in it this way
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I just went out there and pushed up and down on the truck, compressing the springs some real quick. No noise whatsoever. I loooked at the bushings, they all look in good shape to me. They're 21 years old but i don't see any cracks or anything. I'm just not used to these I beam front ends. I'll try the moving back and forth in park. I'll take the tie rods off and see what happens when I turn the steering knuckles.
But right now this is only a low speed/turning the steering wheel noise. It doesn't do anything going 45+ down the road. Just in parking lots and such when I turn the wheels.
But right now this is only a low speed/turning the steering wheel noise. It doesn't do anything going 45+ down the road. Just in parking lots and such when I turn the wheels.
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