Front End Work on the 1990 (will be pic heavy)
#17
#18
Up on jack stands and wheels off. Special tool used to drive caliper retainers out. A chisel works too, but this does it without ruining the retainers.
Drive out retainers on top and bottom of caliper.
Once they're removed, pry the caliper from the mount.
Remove the hub **** bolts.
Remove the hub body retainer. Some different types here. I used a pick and a small screwdriver to get the end out and then spun it out with pliers like a coil. Some others will have you get the end loose and then work your way around with a screwdriver to remove it. Be aware that some hub designs use a snap ring on the end of the axle shaft, which will also need to be removed at this point
Don't disassemble hub. It comes out as an assembly.
Special socket needed. They are different between the 44, 50 and the 60. There are also differences depending on whether you have auto hubs or not.
Remove the outer nut
Remove the hub nut lock. Notice the holes. They will line up with a nub on the inner nut to lock it once you have it adjusted. Very important to line this up on reassembly.
Remove the inner nut and remove the outer bearing. A trick to easily remove the inner bearing and seal is to reinstall the nut after pulling the outer bearing and using the hub/rotor as a slide hammer.
This should be where you're at.
Remove the spindle mounting nuts.
Special tool on slide hammer to remove stuck spindles. You can use a soft faced hammer or a hammer and block of wood. Just be careful that you don't damage the bearing surfaces, threads or bend the spindle.
If you have the tool, make sure that you screw it all the way onto the spindle. You can pull the threads pretty easily if you don't.
Notice that the dust shield is between the spindle and the knuckle
Axle will slide out at this point. On the long side of the 50, you can remove the outer axle and replace the different end ujoint with the axle in place as has been mentioned.
I didn't get to reassemble because I'm had to order some diff parts for mine. Basically it is reverse order of disassembly. I can get you torque specs for the bearings if you need them. I do mine by feel.
Jason
Jason
Drive out retainers on top and bottom of caliper.
Once they're removed, pry the caliper from the mount.
Remove the hub **** bolts.
Remove the hub body retainer. Some different types here. I used a pick and a small screwdriver to get the end out and then spun it out with pliers like a coil. Some others will have you get the end loose and then work your way around with a screwdriver to remove it. Be aware that some hub designs use a snap ring on the end of the axle shaft, which will also need to be removed at this point
Don't disassemble hub. It comes out as an assembly.
Special socket needed. They are different between the 44, 50 and the 60. There are also differences depending on whether you have auto hubs or not.
Remove the outer nut
Remove the hub nut lock. Notice the holes. They will line up with a nub on the inner nut to lock it once you have it adjusted. Very important to line this up on reassembly.
Remove the inner nut and remove the outer bearing. A trick to easily remove the inner bearing and seal is to reinstall the nut after pulling the outer bearing and using the hub/rotor as a slide hammer.
This should be where you're at.
Remove the spindle mounting nuts.
Special tool on slide hammer to remove stuck spindles. You can use a soft faced hammer or a hammer and block of wood. Just be careful that you don't damage the bearing surfaces, threads or bend the spindle.
If you have the tool, make sure that you screw it all the way onto the spindle. You can pull the threads pretty easily if you don't.
Notice that the dust shield is between the spindle and the knuckle
Axle will slide out at this point. On the long side of the 50, you can remove the outer axle and replace the different end ujoint with the axle in place as has been mentioned.
I didn't get to reassemble because I'm had to order some diff parts for mine. Basically it is reverse order of disassembly. I can get you torque specs for the bearings if you need them. I do mine by feel.
Jason
Jason
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