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Doing extreme coolent flush

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Old Mar 8, 2012 | 08:08 PM
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Doing extreme coolent flush

Well hopefully some time next week or other week after I'm going to do a extreme coolent flush, using the helpfull pdf from the tech folder. Which means times of going and getting hoses/copper pipe and such so that I can use a hose connected to the house hot water heater that would be warm to hot water, plus a couple more gallons of coolent from Ford.

I'll be back flushing the heater core, radiator and the oil cooler (does anyone know the gasket P/N for the cap area were you take off the cap were the coolent goes out).

My question would be if I do this type of flush do I still need to get some VC-9 to clean it out then refill with coolent and distilled water.
 
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Old Mar 8, 2012 | 08:34 PM
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You can substitute Restore Plus for the VC-9.
 
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Old Mar 8, 2012 | 10:11 PM
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If you are asking about the oil cooler cap o-ring, the part number is in the pdf toward the back of the document. I think it is 3C3Z-9N693-EA
 
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Old Mar 9, 2012 | 12:15 AM
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sounds like a plan. best of luck!
 
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Old Mar 9, 2012 | 09:52 PM
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I am flushing right now and I do not plan on using any cleaner in the engine, maybe in the rad only, not sure yet. I backflushed and I am now at 5 to 7 delta, I was at 20 before, so I cross my finger, winning a battle does not mean winning the war, days ahead will tell. If everything stays like that, I will not use any cleaner. I only backflushed with water so far.

Do not just flush old coolant, you will disturb all the crap that is in there, this is what happened to me, I flush, flush, flush, did not backflush and I was stuck with an oil cooler issue the next day. Also, REMOVE the bottom hose from the coolant RAD while flushing, you can not believe the crap that is in the RAD. Do not just use the little winnie flush screw.

If I would do it again, I would start with a complete flush and I would ALWAYS use the rad through the big bottom hose, flush the engine through the engine block plug, flush the RAD many, many, many, many times, backflush every hole I could see, up, down, sideways, then ,and only then, back flush the oil cooler, flush again, let the hose run for a day or so. Then I would put in some water, run it without T Stat, run, flush, run flush, ect. Then backflush again throught the oil cooler, run flush without T stat. Keep all flushes in a pan so you see what is in there, flush until you see clear, no flakes, absolutly no flake of any kind.

For the o ring on the cap, if you are talking about the cap over the oil cooler, I removed it two times without issues, the cap goes off very easy, I just oiled it a little and put it back in, just be carefull not to scratch it. The back bolt is a bit hard to get at, you need a 30 torx that you use with an angle 1/4 rachet wrench, stick the torx with a piece of plastiq bag, it will hold it in. Remove the tubing over and pull the wires out of the way with a cord to get at it. Once you get use to it, it is a piece of cake to remove.

Use a clear hose, it fits just perfect in the hole. Screw it to a 3/4 garden hose and flush the crap out of it. Keep your flushed water in a bucket so you can monitor what comes out.

Good luck, let us know your findings.
 
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