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Old Mar 7, 2012 | 11:12 PM
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From: saugerties
Is it worth it

Hey all i Have a question. I have a 79 ranger with a 351m and i was wondering if it was worth replacing the bearings in my motor. As of right now i get 60psi cold and depending on outside temp and how heavy my foot is 5 to 17 lbs (i know bad news) and when i had my oil pan off i could just slightly move the mains less than an 8th inch. Now if i were to replace to bearing would i run into crank problems because of that or is this something i wont know until its all apart. My main thing is i don't want to spend money on the parts to rebuild when i could just a buy rebuilt 400 for 1300 bucks and have a warranty.

sorry for the long post and any answers are welcome
 
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Old Mar 8, 2012 | 12:05 AM
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If you can wiggle the crank 1/8th of an inch, new bearings aren't going to do much good. Won't hurt to try, other than the cost of the bearings and your time.
 
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Old Mar 8, 2012 | 09:37 AM
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Sometimes it workes but more often it doesn't. 2 things are working against you. The crank being worn. The bearing bores being distorted through the years of heat cycles.
 
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Old Mar 8, 2012 | 10:51 AM
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Alright thanks for the help i figured that was gonna be the case, it sucks cause the rest of the motor is clean no leaks no gunk just poo for oil pressure and bad valve seals. Does 1300 seem good for a rebuilt 400 its got some kind of warranty?
 
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Old Mar 8, 2012 | 10:53 AM
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From: saugerties
Originally Posted by 85e150six4mtod
If you can wiggle the crank 1/8th of an inch, new bearings aren't going to do much good. Won't hurt to try, other than the cost of the bearings and your time.
i just reread this and i don't know if its all the same but i grabbed the main caps and slid one of them back and forth not the crank
 
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Old Mar 13, 2012 | 12:58 PM
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From: BC Cana'duh
Was it side to side or up/down.Big difference.The only side to side wear should be on the THRUST bearing which is the center Main.If there is 1/8" between the journal and the bearing,it'll knock like crazy when it's running.Low oil pressure could be bearings,but could also be a worn out pump.If it's the bearings,you'll have to do a rebuild if you want to do it right.You could just replace the oil pump and see if that helps.Also,make sure you are using an accurate guage.You only need 10psi oil pressure for every 1000 RPM to keep the engine happy.You could try a heavier weight oil like 20/50w.I had a 351W that only had ~10psi at idle,and it ran fine for several years.
 
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Old Mar 13, 2012 | 06:32 PM
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sounds like a decent deal?

One thing i would do if you do this 1300 deal. upgrade to a quality timing chain. those OEM chains don't last long and stretch quick. truck runs like a turd and really sucks.
 
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Old Mar 14, 2012 | 12:40 PM
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From: saugerties
i had planned on doing the timing chain. But the best way i can describe the mains was just plain slop a slight side to side but no real up and down, and I grabbed a couple and tried but im not positive they all moved it was about this time last year I did this so. I have tried higher weight oils and they last one ride then the next time i start the truck its back to poo. If I just bought a crank rods and pistons for a 400 I could forgo all this stress and keep my block couldn't I ?
 
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Old Mar 14, 2012 | 12:44 PM
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From: saugerties
and on that 10 lbs to 1000 rpm the whole reason i am wondering was because i just bought a intake carb and headers for the truck so i don't want to put it on and have the motor take a dump and its getting really hard to see those parts everyday and not have them on my truck.
 
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Old Mar 14, 2012 | 01:30 PM
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From: BC Cana'duh
If you want to rebuild your engine,you'd be better off to pull the engine out and carefully disassemble it.Take the block crank pistons/rods to a reputable/competent machine shop so that they can inspect/measure everything and tell you what you can re-use.Its probably cheaper and easier to grind/polish(as needed)your crank than to try and source a new one.Rods can be resized and new bolts installed.You might even be able to re use your pistons.When I rebuilt a 351M nine or ten years ago I had a difficult time trying to find a reasonably priced crank.They aren't very common engines.Geographical location can also affect component price.If you're going to all that trouble,just remember that if you can find a good running (complete with all accessories) 460,it's pretty much a bolt in replacement for a 400m.Oh yeah!
 
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Old Mar 14, 2012 | 05:38 PM
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From: saugerties
If my uncle didn't already have a 460 in his i would do that but then id just have a red version of his truck.I have two 351m's one got crammed in a ranger for my grandma to tool around town and the other is in my truck. We only have one good machine shop around here so he kind of jacks his prices but i think im going to bite the bullet and bring him the truck. Thank you guys for the advice
 
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Old Mar 14, 2012 | 06:04 PM
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sounds obvious and you are probably considering it, but turn it into a 400 and dont muck around with the 351m. You may already have a dodgy crank so thats half the drama with a change-over.
 
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Old Mar 14, 2012 | 06:07 PM
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From: saugerties
i thought about that, i can get a stock one from rockauto for like 350 but then i need pistons to correct?
 
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Old Mar 14, 2012 | 06:17 PM
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Yes you do but there are more available than for the 351m. T Meyer has a heap of different pistons to suit the 400 depending on heads etc. he also does a fully balance whole rotating assembly for not too bad dollars so that may be the go.
 
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Old Mar 14, 2012 | 06:24 PM
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alright thanks again
 
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