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That link is a good write up but some of the info could be changed. When I did my IH pump it was pretty easy except for my broken bolt in the timing cover. If you purchase a "real" international pump then the pulley bolts on and nothing needs to be done to it. No shaving the back side of it. Only a small area needs to be ground down for the belt to fit and running the extra IH pulley is a waste of money. I found a new pump on eBay for 100 bucks. This is a very clean way to run a coolant filter and gets rid of a ton of hoses.
The pump must not have the casting numbers on it or the pulley won't fit without being clearanced off the back. The IH oem pump doesn't have these numbers in the wrong place.
Here is the area that needs ground down for the belt to clear.
A simple test is to pop the hood when the engine is up to temp, and if the line coming out of the coolant filter is cold, the filter is plugged and should be changed. Since most filters are installed as a bypass filtration, having a plugged filter will not cause any problems or damage anything.
I saw a recommendation for every 3 months for the first year and then every year after that....
Richard
Originally Posted by superduty4x4
A simple test is to pop the hood when the engine is up to temp, and if the line coming out of the coolant filter is cold, the filter is plugged and should be changed. Since most filters are installed as a bypass filtration, having a plugged filter will not cause any problems or damage anything.
I think it would work, and its cheap. I only noticed that the IH number in the ad its: The International Part# for this water pump is 1831676C92. and I have in my book this one: 1823669C91, for eng's w/serial No 58559 & above. IDK.
Alright guys, so i replaced the pump. Took it for a spin, no leaks. So i took it for a drive and the temp gauge went through the roof, the coolant in the overflow bottle was bubbling and the upper rad hose wasn't pressurized but super hot to the touch... Sounds like I have air trapped somewhere. What should I be doing?
Alright guys, so i replaced the pump. Took it for a spin, no leaks. So i took it for a drive and the temp gauge went through the roof, the coolant in the overflow bottle was bubbling and the upper rad hose wasn't pressurized but super hot to the touch... Sounds like I have air trapped somewhere. What should I be doing?
Something quick and easy I've done is drive it up the steepest incline you can find and let it sit there and run for a few minutes. This will sometimes free up an airlock. I have a steep bank in front of my house that I use.
Something quick and easy I've done is drive it up the steepest incline you can find and let it sit there and run for a few minutes. This will sometimes free up an airlock. I have a steep bank in front of my house that I use.
Good idea... I'll have to try that in the morning if all else fails..
What pump and thermostat did you use? If you were to use a late model pump that designed for a long thermostat and put a short thermostat in it it wont close of the bypass and cause the engine to overheat.
What pump and thermostat did you use? If you were to use a late model pump that designed for a long thermostat and put a short thermostat in it it wont close of the bypass and cause the engine to overheat.
It's just a replacement pump for my 95, nothing special, I wasn't going to spend 300+ on a pump. I reused the thermostat with a new gasket. The thermostat is only about a year old and was working fine with the old pump..
It's just a replacement pump for my 95, nothing special, I wasn't going to spend 300+ on a pump. I reused the thermostat with a new gasket. The thermostat is only about a year old and was working fine with the old pump..
96 and later use a redesigned pump that takes the long neck thermostat, either pump would work on your 95 as long as it has the correct thermostat.