I have Monday - Friday off. Of course, some people think I'm a little Off all the time .....

 

Have a Bunch of Fun Darren !!

 

I got my 1st message on Saturday at 12,800 miles, took it to my dealer Tuesday. He said I was the first guy who knew about the test kits. They called later and said "we don't have the test strips, so we're just going to put in a bottle of additive". I asked in the primary and secondary or what? He didn't know. When I got there to pick it up, I talked to the shop foreman and he said the tech put 3/4 of a bottle in the primary and 1/4 in the secondary. They did reset the message, though.

I said I'll have you guys check it when I bring it in for the next oil change. I'll make sure they have the test kits BEFORE I bring it in next time.

 

Remember you need VC-12 Do not let them add the older VC-8 additive. If they do, you will need to flush and refill the system. VC-8 is what they put in the 7.3, 6.0 and 6.4L engines If they used VC-8, they ruined your coolant.

VC-12 can be added only TWICE during your coolants life. since your coolant is expected to last 105,000 miles, I kinda think of adding the coolant additive at 35,000 and 70,000 and then flush and refill at 105,000.

Don't let them add it at 12,500 and 25,000 and then you re done with additives.

 

The Shop Foreman told me they put in the VC-12 (one bottle)

From what I could find in my research, that's the purpose of the kits - Every situation is going to be different. But, I do agree that the amount they added kind of screwed up my chances of getting maximum longevity from my coolant. At least they didn't charge me anything.

 

They could use some better directions on those test kits too!

 

Another factor for your calculus: it sounds like they gave you a half dose.

Assuming they used a 32 fl oz bottle (which is the only size I've seen) then according to the above, they gave you 24 oz in the primary and 8 in the secondary. Ford calls for 48 oz in the primary and 12 oz in the secondary. Of course Ford only calls for these if the coolant fails the Corrosion Inhibitor (Contamination) Level test. Sounds like your dealer couldn't preform the test so they hedged their bet by giving a half dose just in case. I'll leave the wisdom of this to the beholder.

Thus, when others (correctly) say that you can only add VC-12 twice - realize that you are not really at 1, you're at 0.5. (again, assuming a 32 oz bottle was used). Of course this knowledge won't really benefit you unless you plan to use another half dose. How good is your eye for judging the difference between dark orange and red?

Now, did your truck need a full dose, or no dose? Much like the answer of how many licks it takes to reach the center of a Tootsie Pop, the world may never know.

MA

 

Exactly. I had a dealer do this to me. They didn't understand that they had added the very substance (nitrites) that are not supposed to be present in the 2011+ system. I had to get very stubborn in insisting that they flush and refill with Orange/Distilled Water. Thankfully they only knew about the primary system, so my secondary was safe.

I bought my truck in 2010, so it was probably one of the first 6.7's they'd seen for coolant additive. They may have got their act together now, but I tested myself last time.

MA

 

Thanks to all those who posted the great info here.
To those who have bought and performed the coolant check yourself:

I'm a little confused.
The Owners manual (Diesel Supplement) on pgs 49-50 say use the Rotunda kits 328-00007 and 328-00008.
When I reference the Shop Manual Procedures, it has part numbers
328-00001 and 328-00008.

Also When I look at the Acustrip web site it shows part number
R071-ELC [Rotunda part number 328-00008]

But what item would you order to get the 328-00001 (or 328-00007)?

I've always done auto maintenance/repair myself, but with the expense of these 6.7s, I just want to make sure it's done right and I'm not getting a warm and fuzzy from some of the posts here and from my dealer.

Thanks

 

2011F-250KR,

Here's what you'll need:

Part # 328-00001 - $5.67, I ordered the "Retail Package" of 4 strips

Part # 328-00008 - $50.00, 10 strips, unfortunately these have a shelf life of roughly two years (there's a date on the box), so feel free to re-run a test if you're uncertain of the color or to double check levels if you were required to add VC-12.

I couldn't figure out how to order the 328-0001 Retail Package from their web site, so I called them at 973-299-8237 and had them in few days. The whole thing cost $63.17 shipped. I anticipate being able to use these kits for two complete testing cycles.

MA

 

THANKS Marching Ant

That's not too bad, the dealer was saying it would be about $50 to do the check and if it needed the Additive.

Plus I get the opportunity to work on my truck myself and know it was done right.

 

$50 seems high but I guess that's a half hour of labor these days?
That's what I was charged to "attempt" to have my speedometer reprogrammed.

 

<TABLE border=1 cellSpacing=0 cellPadding=3 width="50%" xmlns:str="http://xsltsl.org/string"><CAPTION>Special Tool(s)</CAPTION><TBODY><TR vAlign=top><TD> </TD><TD>3-Way HD Antifreeze Coolant Test Kit
328-00001 or equivalent </TD></TR><TR vAlign=top><TD> </TD><TD>Antifreeze Coolant ELC Contamination Kit
328-00008 or equivalent </TD></TR></TBODY></TABLE>
<TABLE border=1 cellSpacing=0 cellPadding=3 width="50%" xmlns:str="http://xsltsl.org/string"><CAPTION>Material</CAPTION><TBODY><TR vAlign=top><TH>Item</TH><TH>Specification</TH></TR><TR vAlign=top><TD>Motorcraft® Orange Antifreeze/Coolant Concentrated
VC-3-B (US); CVC-3-B2 (Canada) </TD><TD align=middle>WSS-M97B44-D </TD></TR><TR vAlign=top><TD>Motorcraft® Specialty Orange Engine Coolant Revitalizer
VC-12 </TD><TD align=middle>— </TD></TR></TBODY></TABLE>
NOTICE: Use only Motorcraft® Specialty Orange Coolant Revitalizer VC-12 as an additive to Motorcraft® Specialty Orange Engine Coolant. Do not mix with or add any other coolant additive. Use of any additive other than Motorcraft® Specialty Orange Coolant Revitalizer VC-12 degrades the corrosion protection of Motorcraft® Specialty Orange Engine Coolant and may damage the engine or cooling system components.
NOTE: If the cooling system has been drained due to a repair, fill a clear, clean approximately 1 L or 1 qt container with coolant from the drain pan. If the coolant has not been drained from the cooling system, open the radiator draincock to fill a clear, clean approximately 1 L or 1 qt container with coolant.
NOTE: During normal vehicle operation, Motorcraft® Specialty Orange Engine Coolant may change color from orange to pink or light red. As long as the engine coolant is clear and uncontaminated, this color change does not indicate the engine coolant has degraded nor does it require the engine coolant to be drained, the system to be flushed, or the engine coolant to be replaced.

1. Inspect the coolant color.
   1. Discoloration may indicate that incorrect coolant may have been added to the system. Use of incorrect (green or yellow in color) coolant degrades the corrosion protection of Motorcraft® Specialty Orange Engine Coolant. Addition of Motorcraft Specialty Green Engine Coolant may cause the color to appear to be a murky green-brown color. The addition of Motorcraft Premium Gold Coolant, however, may not change the color or appearance of the orange colored coolant. Detection of contamination with Premium Gold Engine Coolant is determined by the presence of nitrite. Flush the system and refill with the correct mixture of distilled water and Motorcraft® Specialty Orange Engine Coolant. Refer to Cooling System Flushing — Without Oil Contamination in this section.
   • A darker orange with the presence of debris could indicate a commercially available stop leak may have been used and could result in loss of coolant flow to critical parts of the engine. If sediment is present in the coolant sample, flush the system and refill with the correct mixture of distilled water and Motorcraft® Specialty Orange Engine Coolant. Refer to Cooling System Flushing — Without Oil Contamination in this section.
   • A light or reddish brown color indicates that rust may be present in the cooling system. Flush the system and refill with the correct mixture of distilled water and Motorcraft® Specialty Orange Engine Coolant. Refer to Cooling System Flushing — Without Oil Contamination in this section.
   • An iridescent sheen on top of the coolant could indicate a trace of oil is entering the system. For engine diagnosis, refer to Section 303-00. Flush the cooling system and refill with the correct mixture of distilled water and Motorcraft® Specialty Orange Engine Coolant. Refer toCooling System Flushing — With Oil Contamination in this section.
   • A milky brown color may indicate that engine oil is entering the cooling system. Pressure test the cooling system. Refer to the Component Tests in this section. If engine oil is suspected, the cause of the leak may be internal to the engine. For engine diagnosis, refer to Section 303-00. Flush the cooling system and refill with the correct mixture of distilled water and Motorcraft® Specialty Orange Engine Coolant. Refer to Cooling System Flushing — With Oil Contamination in this section.

1. For the shaded area, drain the quantity listed and fill the cooling system with undiluted Motorcraft® Specialty Orange Engine Coolant. For the unshaded area, drain the quantity listed and fill the cooling system with distilled water.

1. For the shaded area, drain the quantity listed and fill the cooling system with undiluted Motorcraft® Specialty Orange Engine Coolant. For the unshaded area, drain the quantity listed and fill the cooling system with distilled water.

1. Carry out one of the following:
   1. If the coolant has been drained from the system due to a repair, add 48 oz Motorcraft® Specialty Orange Coolant Revitalizer VC-12 to the coolant in the drain pan. Stir thoroughly and make sure the coolant is free of any visual debris before returning to the cooling system. Fill and bleed the cooling system using the drained coolant. For additional information, refer to Cooling System Draining, Filling and Bleeding in this section.
   1. If only enough coolant has been drained from the system to carry out the coolant test, drain an additional approximately 1 L or 1 quart from the cooling system via the radiator draincock. Add 48 oz Motorcraft® Specialty Orange Coolant Revitalizer VC-12 to the degas bottle. Fill the degas bottle to the cold fill range with a 50/50 mixture of Motorcraft® Specialty Orange Engine Coolant and distilled water.

<?xml version="1.0" encoding="utf-8"?>

 

Thanks Vloney

 

This has been a source of confusion for me. I have been trying to figure out what and where to buy the appropriate supplies to do this test but... The current version of the 2012 Diesel Supplement (3rd printing) says the following:
page 47: Checking engine coolant, Note: for best results, coolant concentration should be tested with a refractometer such as Rotunda tool ROB75240 available from your dealer. Ford does not recommend the use of hydrometers or coolant test strips for measuring coolant concentrations.

page 51 and 52 say: Checking coolant corrosion inhibitor additive strength, At specific mileage intervals of 15,000 miles as listed in the scheduled maintenance information chapter, the coolant corrosion inhibitor additive should be checked.....The purpose of checking is to verify the correct engine coolant concentration (freeze point protection) and corrosion inhibitor additive level (strength) of the coolant for maximum engine performance and protestion. Three products are available for ensuring that life and health of the coolant: one tool, a test kit and a coolant inhibitor additive: Rotunda tool ROB75240 available from your dealer - recommended refractometer to test coolant concentration. Rotunda 328-00008 (Antifreeze Coolant ELC Contamination Kit)- Evaluates the corrosion inhibitor additive strength. Note the first step is to verify the vehicle's coolant concentration is in the correct range of 40-60%.

It doesn't say anything about a nitrites test nor does it mention the 328-0001 test kit. It specifically says Ford doesn't recommend test strips for coolant concentration checks but that appears to be exactly what the 328-00001 kit is?