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2001 F150 binding up

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Old Mar 6, 2012 | 05:26 AM
  #1  
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2001 F150 binding up

Hey FTE!

My Dad recently acquired this truck for daily use, occasional hauling etc... It's an EC/SB 5.4 4x4 117K on the clock. The truck has new firestone a/t tires.

Problem is he says even in 2wd the truck feels like it's binding up and something is getting caught. When the steering wheel is turned full lock either direction, he has to put his put foot into it, to get it moving.

My immediate thought was one of the hubs is not fully disengaged. We threw around the idea that it could be a wheel bearing going out. Wouldn't that cause a humming sound while going down the road? Last time I drove the truck, I didn't notice any such noise.

What do you pros think?
 
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Old Mar 8, 2012 | 07:38 AM
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Not a pro...but try the parking brake cables.....one side is tighter than other & binding the the lighter tensioned one...I posted a comment on this the other day....complaints from A-Z are surprisingly fixed when the cables are " Equalized"...they are like a tuning fork when high & tight...then you can dial them in down to a hairs click with a spare throttle return spring on the gas pedal...you can feel the harmonic vibration from either side when it starts "hoggin" or barely rubbing...better yet, once you hit "unity" or optimum tension, any questions about pads,rotors,bearings etc. including EGR,IAC etc. issues might be answered...I wish more posts with this easy fix were available to know how many this helps...I see it all the time....good luck
 
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Old Apr 4, 2012 | 03:59 AM
  #3  
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From: Matthews NC
Originally Posted by Ford-N-floored
Not a pro...but try the parking brake cables.....one side is tighter than other & binding the the lighter tensioned one...I posted a comment on this the other day....complaints from A-Z are surprisingly fixed when the cables are " Equalized"...they are like a tuning fork when high & tight...then you can dial them in down to a hairs click with a spare throttle return spring on the gas pedal...you can feel the harmonic vibration from either side when it starts "hoggin" or barely rubbing...better yet, once you hit "unity" or optimum tension, any questions about pads,rotors,bearings etc. including EGR,IAC etc. issues might be answered...I wish more posts with this easy fix were available to know how many this helps...I see it all the time....good luck
Not to steel the thread but,I just did brakes on my 1992 F350 Crew Cab dually,The left rear brakes smell sometimes.When I come off the hwy,I smell them the most ,COULD IT BE THAT ?When on the hwy there is a vibration from the left rear,which I am positive its the brakes binding.
 
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Old Apr 4, 2012 | 07:58 AM
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Alot of variables included after a brake job. New rotors w/those pads?..caliper/pins/mounting hardware?...if you are confident pistons are good, then yes, this is most likely the cause....I always adjust prkng cables last...& a couple more times as they wear in....along with the smell (whichmostnewpadsdo), listen to your cat/converters....they'll be poppin' like mad, when yer' draggin' one side....& adjust them while vehicle is on gnd...not lift..bodyweight alone will cause stretch after being on a lift, & add more adjustments...if there is uneven rotor wear and rotors were not turned, you can compensate for that by tuning the cables over time......just be aware of your discard thickness relative to each side...hope this helps ...like to know..
 
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Old Apr 4, 2012 | 08:07 AM
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LIGOOMBA
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From: Matthews NC
Originally Posted by Ford-N-floored
Alot of variables included after a brake job. New rotors w/those pads?..caliper/pins/mounting hardware?...if you are confident pistons are good, then yes, this is most likely the cause....I always adjust prkng cables last...& a couple more times as they wear in....along with the smell (whichmostnewpadsdo), listen to your cat/converters....they'll be poppin' like mad, when yer' draggin' one side....& adjust them while vehicle is on gnd...not lift..bodyweight alone will cause stretch after being on a lift, & add more adjustments...if there is uneven rotor wear and rotors were not turned, you can compensate for that by tuning the cables over time......just be aware of your discard thickness relative to each side...hope this helps ...like to know..
Did the fronts about 6 months ago,this is the back.New wheel cylinders,shoes.I just bought new hardware,I thought maybe something was streched.Is there a certain way to adjust parking brake cable other then equal.Whats with the throttle return spring on gas pedal?I dont understand that.I am gonna adjust them till they are tight equal like Aspen said and take it from there.Any suggestions?
 
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Old Apr 4, 2012 | 08:52 AM
  #6  
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Easier said than done from this side....lol..as you say, adjust each star wheel high & tight, with vehicle facing slight upgrade...adjust them till no "rubbing" sounds come from each wheel, they rub rolling backwards before going foward, so even if the starwheels aren't equal, the tension to each wheel is equal...they'll be some creaksNmoans during your starts N stops at first (reverse too) while adjusting them, specially if a piston or starwheel was out of sync already...you may feel it on the left rear, & a slight adjustment to tighten the right rear may be all it needs....the throttlle return spring is used to feel the vibration along the e-brake cables right down to the tension springs to the shoe assembies....hook one end to gas (or brake) pedal & the other end of the throttle return spring to dash panel or anywhere you can stretch it to...you'll feel the "tuning fork" variables depending on how much tension you get by hooking to different locations...your vibrations severity will help you to dial em' in to a T for a smooth ride...hope this helps...or even makes sense...8)
 
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Old Apr 4, 2012 | 11:24 AM
  #7  
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From: Matthews NC
Originally Posted by Ford-N-floored
Easier said than done from this side....lol..as you say, adjust each star wheel high & tight, with vehicle facing slight upgrade...adjust them till no "rubbing" sounds come from each wheel, they rub rolling backwards before going foward, so even if the starwheels aren't equal, the tension to each wheel is equal...they'll be some creaksNmoans during your starts N stops at first (reverse too) while adjusting them, specially if a piston or starwheel was out of sync already...you may feel it on the left rear, & a slight adjustment to tighten the right rear may be all it needs....the throttlle return spring is used to feel the vibration along the e-brake cables right down to the tension springs to the shoe assembies....hook one end to gas (or brake) pedal & the other end of the throttle return spring to dash panel or anywhere you can stretch it to...you'll feel the "tuning fork" variables depending on how much tension you get by hooking to different locations...your vibrations severity will help you to dial em' in to a T for a smooth ride...hope this helps...or even makes sense...8)
WOW !! Thats intense !! I will give it a shot.Like I said did not do it until after the new brakes were put in.I am gonna go underneath there and take a look. Oh you know where I can find one of those coffe cans and a diagram for hooking the vac lines to it.My bottom tee on the firewall has a bolt in it.I don't think it should be that way.
Thanks
 
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Old Apr 5, 2012 | 06:36 PM
  #8  
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If the steering wheel is fully cranked in either direction the front ujoints will bind.


Just a normal process. Take shorter strokes.
 
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Old Apr 6, 2012 | 08:25 AM
  #9  
LIGOOMBA's Avatar
LIGOOMBA
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From: Matthews NC
Originally Posted by Ford-N-floored
Easier said than done from this side....lol..as you say, adjust each star wheel high & tight, with vehicle facing slight upgrade...adjust them till no "rubbing" sounds come from each wheel, they rub rolling backwards before going foward, so even if the starwheels aren't equal, the tension to each wheel is equal...they'll be some creaksNmoans during your starts N stops at first (reverse too) while adjusting them, specially if a piston or starwheel was out of sync already...you may feel it on the left rear, & a slight adjustment to tighten the right rear may be all it needs....the throttlle return spring is used to feel the vibration along the e-brake cables right down to the tension springs to the shoe assembies....hook one end to gas (or brake) pedal & the other end of the throttle return spring to dash panel or anywhere you can stretch it to...you'll feel the "tuning fork" variables depending on how much tension you get by hooking to different locations...your vibrations severity will help you to dial em' in to a T for a smooth ride...hope this helps...or even makes sense...8)
I looked underneath my truck does not have that adjustment.It looks like its a fixed cable.Any Ideas?I am baffled now.I am gonn replace all the return springs and cable.For 20.00 maybe I have a bad spring or stretched cable.
 
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