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I own a 2003 E150 conversion van (Explorer is the manufacturer) and have nothing but problems with the front rotors warping and ultimately causing vibration/shimmy - especially noticeable when doing moderate to hard breaking. I've had the rotors and pads replaced a couple of times over the past few years (by the same mechanic who probably used the same brand replacement parts each time) and initially it is always better - but within 8-10K miles it seems to slowly get worse until the point where I'm back to where I started.
I was wondering if anyone here has had a similar issue and had good luck in solving the issue with a specific brand of rotor/pad combo?
I seem to replace mine also about every 2 years +/-. I know it's the way I drive not poor parts. That being said,I never use oem parts.I always upgrade and last time around (2 years+)I changed to a harder pad and don't seem to be having any problems.One good thing about having to change pads/rotors is, it's easy and lets me get a good look at my brake/front end hardware(calipers,hoses,bearings,bj's etc) at the same time.This has always been a problem with these vans. I've often wondered if DS rotors would help.Anyone tried them?
I have a conversion van made by Explorer, however I don't think that just because we own Explorers increases the likelihood of this problem. A Ford is a Ford is a Ford..... I bought mine last year as a project van because it needed quite a bit of work (nothing too bad, mostly maintenance) and I have driven it all of maybe 100 miles in the past 5 months. I plan on doing a complete front and rear brake job within the next month and I plan on using NAPA brake parts. I have had pretty good success with their higher-end stuff, but I will also use a little bit harder pad that I think will reduce the chances of warping and may last longer. I definitely won't use their cheapest, hardest pads since I was always under the impression that pads like those tend to build up more heat and therefore increase the chances of warping the rotors. I don't want to use the softest pads since they'll need replacing often since our vans are rather heavy. After all, brake wear and heat production are directly related to how much weight needs to be stopped, how fast, over what distance, how often and under what conditions.
I'll let you know how my pick of brake parts goes. Good luck with yours.
LN323 - thanks for your comments. This year will mark the 30th year I have owned a Ford van (my first was a 1977 E100, straight 6/300, 3 on the tree). All of my previous vans were E350's - I never had a problem with breaks on them. While I don't blame Explorer specifically, I feel the conversion van manufacturers use a lightweight E150 when they know a E250 or E350 should be used given that the gross vehicle weight of a finished and loaded conversion van is about 7,500 lbs? If my memory serves, the gross vehicle weight of my old E350's was 8,600 (4,600 empty with a 2ton load for a total of 8,600).
True dat.... but then, that means that when I go to NAPA, maybe I should be asking for the brake parts for a 350? Doesn't hurt to ask! LOL Actually, I just plan on getting the beefiest parts for my bolt pattern (5-boltsd) since I know that the vans that are more heavy duty often have that gargantuan 8 bolt pattern I've seen in the junk yard.
Well - first I misspoke so will correct myself. With the exception of my first van (which was the E100 back when I was in High School) - my experience was strictly with E350's until my conversion van brought me back to an E150.
I think the trick is picking the correct pad. The tendency is to want one that is hard and won't wear - but in reality that means that it will also heat up the rotor. SO - I think a pad that wears while creating as little heat as possible is the key. I'd rather NOT be warping my rotors and replace my pads every 6 months - if that's what i have to do.
Citing just my own experience with a cargo/work van, E250 weighing 7800# as a daily driver....
Replaced rotors (and all bearings, seals etc) with USA made stuff from Advanced Auto---used OEM pads straight from the dealer. This is actually the third time I've used this combo on E250's and so far nary even a hiccup with brake issues like warped rotors. My stopping power doesn't seem to suffer either.
Apart from the sometimes big difference in cost OEM stuff isn't bad stuff. If the same quality is available from other parts sellers for a lower price naturally I use them. For me cost is never the deciding factor when it comes to brake parts---assuming of course I'm getting the same quality, almost never opt for anything not made in the USA.
Maybe this time talk to your mechanic about the warping and see if he can use a different brand----might solve that frequent replacement requirement.
Let us know what you do or discover----could be helpful for others too!
My 97 E-150 Starcraft Hightop eats front pads every year or about 30,000 miles, but I have only had one warped rotor and that is when I bought the van and had the brakes redone anyway. Had 3 sets since then with no issues other than pads wearing out.
I have always had them done by my local Goodyear dealer, who I have had great luck with and always put on better parts at my request and cost. I will be doing the brakes in a few weeks as soon as it gets above freezing here.
My 97 E-150 Starcraft Hightop eats front pads every year or about 30,000 miles, but I have only had one warped rotor and that is when I bought the van and had the brakes redone anyway. Had 3 sets since then with no issues other than pads wearing out.
I have always had them done by my local Goodyear dealer, who I have had great luck with and always put on better parts at my request and cost. I will be doing the brakes in a few weeks as soon as it gets above freezing here.
Brake pads last me so long it's usually impossible to replace them w/exactly the same item. A couple years down the road part stores generally have new improved brake pads to choose from. Side by side comparison of the same part number brake pads tend to show obvious differences. Have seen this w/Rabestos, Wagner & Brand X.
In my experience most rotor warping is usually caused by other things, not the 'flavor' of brake pads. Driver style may be #1, w/any brake Rotors/Pads? Abuse can warp the best rotors in short order. FTE recently aired the importance of lugnut torque specs. Overtightening lugs is linked to warped rotors.
Other common culprits are calipers not sliding, piston seals that no longer flex & air in system-all cause rotors/pads to run warm. Instead of cooling completely, excess 'rest' friction keeps rotors/pads warm, so when used it's quicker/easier for heat generated to make them hotter. Gradual onset of these culprits can go undetected in routine driving that doesn't tax brakes much. When brakes see severe use rotors can get so much hotter they warp. Once warped the run out adds more friction, setting up cycle that ultimately leads to brake shop, or brake failure.
As others have mentioned, it's easy to flirt w/E150 load specs & test the brake system's maximum design capacity.
Also an issue with Excursions. Some good advice/experience in this long thread. The consensus is it's cementite caused by hot spots on the rotor that causes the warped "shimmy/pulsation" feel.
Also an issue with Excursions. Some good advice/experience in this long thread. The consensus is it's cementite caused by hot spots on the rotor that causes the warped "shimmy/pulsation" feel.
Also an issue with Excursions. Some good advice/experience in this long thread. The consensus is it's cementite caused by hot spots on the rotor that causes the warped "shimmy/pulsation" feel.
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