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Rotor and Caliper Recommendations - E350

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Old Jul 10, 2007 | 05:02 PM
  #1  
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jbury
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From: Eureka, California
Rotor and Caliper Recommendations - E350

I have a 95 E350 Club Wagon with 130K w/ 4 wheel ABS on it. It's time for front brake replacement / overhaul. Have a warped rotor on the right side and new pads were installed before a trip last month and ended up with the right side dragging.

Plan to replace both calipers, rotors, brake hose, probably bearings since I'm already in the neighborhood. I will do this myself since I don't know who to trust anymore.

There seems to be about 3 levels of quality in rotors and my question is it worth it to get the top of the line drilled and slotted ones at ~$250 each. I am looking at either Bendix (at Kragen) or NAPA brand. The next level down are around ~$150 and I won't go for the cheapies. I don't tow or haul much weight in it and being 62 drive very conservatively. My van is recreational, a cot and camping gear, and put about 5k a year on it.

The only difference I can see in Calipers is they either have phenolic or metal pistons. NAPA only has phenolic.

I don't mind spending extra on parts if it is worth it and like to do the job right the first time around. Appreciate any recommendations you gentlemen may have on parts manufacurers and if I am forgetting anything.

Thanks... Jim
 
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Old Jul 10, 2007 | 06:32 PM
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Clubwagon
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From: Saint Augustine, FL
I would never use the calipers with phenolic pistons.

I have had excellent results with CarQuest brand brake components. I had lots of trouble with rotors on my van until I got the carquest units. They have been perfect for three seasons now. I also upgraded to CarQuest brand ceramic brake pads. I love these. I had been using the Performance Friction Carbon Metalic pads and hadn't been all that happy with them. Lots of dust and they ate the rotors up before the pads wore out.

I have now used these same brand pads and rotors on all of my street vehicles (trucks and cars) and love them universally. The Ceramic pads make no dust, are very easy on the rotors and stop great. I use my van exclusively for towing (15K to 20K miles anually) and the CarQuest ceramic pads and rotors have more than paid for themselves. I used to replace the rotors and pads anually, the current set is now winding up their third season of towing my racecar and perform like new.

The drilled and slotted rotors are a waste of money. The only reason to use these is in severe service (ie: heavy towing).

I can't speak of the quality of the NAPA brand stuff but I know Bendix to make quality stuff. I haven't used their stuff on my van but my general experience with them has been good.

Steve
'95 Clubwagon XLT
 
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Old Jul 10, 2007 | 07:43 PM
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kynnhoj
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Try to find "made in the USA" parts. Good luck! Did you have your old rotors measured? They might be able to turn them. Make sure to grease the caliper pins and put on new pin boots.
 
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Old Jul 10, 2007 | 09:39 PM
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jbury
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kynnhoj - since I already have a warped rotor I figured its time to replace, but do apreciate the advice. Plan to replace what ever is replacable. And yes, agree on the made in USA advice too. That's what makes me nervous about buying from Kragen...

Clubwagon - Thanks for recommendation on Carquest. Have 2 dealers in my area and will look into them. Also good to know that the drilled / slotted rotors are not needed for my application. Like I said before, this is my Tin Tent and don't push her very hard. Also thanks for advice on the metal pistons for the calipers and will look into it. I used to have a lot of faith in Timken brand bearings, are they still a good choice? I may not need to replace them but figure after a 130K just do it and not have to think about them again for another 100K.

Thanks for the quick response guys... Jim
 
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Old Jul 10, 2007 | 09:50 PM
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Clubwagon
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From: Saint Augustine, FL
Timkin are the real deal. Go with them. Wheel bearings are cheap and easy to replace and you might as well do it while you're in there but.... Mine have 260,000 miles on them with no issues. Of course I repacked them once a year when I replaced the rotors for most of their life. I haven't had to do that since '04. So they have been well cared for. I always looked at them and since they looked perfect, put them back in. Also, alot to be said for properly torquing them.

One thing about CarQuest, they are primarily a commercial supplier so their parts are of good quality. I came to appreciate them when I owned a big transmission shop and got tired of the Chinese parts I got from the big retailers (autozone, Advance, Kragen, OReily's, etc...). It wasn't worth installing that junk because invariably we would have to do it again under warrranty. Yes, they replace the part but your customer isn't happy and it wasted our time. After using them I found in many cases that they aren't that much more expensive if at all.

Steve
'95 Clubwagon XLT
 
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Old Jul 11, 2007 | 12:15 AM
  #6  
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racerman_27410
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i bought a set of these


http://brakeperformance.com/site/brake_rotors.php?&vehicle_type_id=1&vehicle_make_i d=2662&vehicle_model_id=7581&vehicle_year_id=28913 &vehicle_engine_id=42823&cPath=1_2662_7581_28913_4 2823_42824&ad=google&dataload=1&sort=2a

with a lifetime warranty against cracking and/or warping and a price comparable to standard rotors i figured i couldnt go wrong with them.

i also bought their pads and since i bought both front and rear rotors i got the rear pads for free.

i also replaced the bearings (the new rotors come with cups already pressed in)
i agree that when it comes to bearings dont buy the cheap chinese stuff it can and probably will come back to haunt you.

Frank
 
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Old Jul 11, 2007 | 09:47 PM
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jbury
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From: Eureka, California
Thanks for the replies. It's as confusing getting brake parts as it is selecting motor oil..?

Think I'll go with Carquest as I like to support the local suppliers and keep the money in my home town. Also if something is not right with parts, a lot easier to take back and get it right.

What is strange now is my brakes are working just fine. I feel no pulsating and doesn't pull to the right anymore. I even did some hard stopping to test it and and feels normal. Do these vans self-heel? I was in the Mojave desert last year and the temperature was 118 degrees. I had the van overheat and die on me with check engine light and generator light on. Coasted off to the side of the road figuring it was a gonner. Let it sit and cool down for a half hour and it started right up and drove it another 900 miles back home with no problems since..? There weren't even any codes stored in the computer. This rig has never stranded me or maybe I'm blessed..?

Again, Thanks for the replies. Jim
 
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