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Im starting to wonder but its Ford factory plugin.
Since the trailer brakes are known to be good, the only way the trailer brakes can lock the wheels is if they are getting full amperage. Unless the new brake controller is also bad, which I think it unlikely, there has to be a wiring fault. My though would be the stop lights, which are not modulated, are feeding the brakes.
I know this seems too basic, but if you unplug the new brake controller, do the trailer brakes operate?
Since the trailer brakes are known to be good, the only way the trailer brakes can lock the wheels is if they are getting full amperage. Unless the new brake controller is also bad, which I think it unlikely, there has to be a wiring fault. My though would be the stop lights, which are not modulated, are feeding the brakes.
I know this seems too basic, but if you unplug the new brake controller, do the trailer brakes operate?
I had a guy tell me I needed a resistor in the hot wire , its getting to much juice all at once?
Makes sense but I dont know?
Absolutely 1000% incorrect. Ask him why. The brake controller is the modulator for the hot lead and if you wire an aftermarket controller from scratch, the recommendation is that you connect the hot lead directly to the battery terminal as you want an uninterrupted flow of current.
Although brake controllers seem to be complicated, the basics are not and troubleshooting generally takes no more than 15 minutes once folks get used to it.
Steve
Last edited by RV_Tech; Jun 2, 2012 at 10:25 PM.
Reason: expanded answer
If the brakes are locking empty, but not loaded, it is a controller issue. It normally means the controller is set too aggressively and needs to be adjusted down.
The new one is a "Hayes Lemmerz Syncronizer"
#81725
This a basic accelerometer controller and Hayes is certainly a reputable company. Not as well known as Tekonsha, but I have visited the factory and their software designed contracts for a number of controller manufacturers so I doubt there is a problem with the control.
Since the only adjustment is the power wheel, I would hook up my trailer and take it to a parking lot and dial the wheel up and down. When you change the power wheel you should be able to feel a difference in how much initial braking takes place with the trailer brakes. Dialed all the way up, the brakes should take hold pronto. Dialed down should be much smoother.
By your description, I would expect the controller is set for a much heavier trailer. For example, on my Hayes G2, which has a digital screen, I set the initial action according to the weight of my trailer in relation to the weight of my truck, so if I set it all the way up, the trailer comes on very hard.
I have it dialed down as far as it goes.....................
So the controller setting does nothing? Sorry, I can't recall, is this with your 02 350? And you are connecting your controller using the factory plug?
Steve
Last edited by RV_Tech; Jun 3, 2012 at 11:17 AM.
Reason: added questions
Try this. Locate the brake pin on your seven pin and with no lights, etc. turned on, have someone slowly work the manual slide on the controller while you watch the meter. Doing this overrides any other controller function. Does the voltage slowly rise at the pin? This should tell you if you brake pin wiring is correct.
The gain control works , it really slams on if I turn it up.
Its not the trailer as it works well when I pull it with my 02
So the wiring is not off a factory plug. Was it done like this? -
All 1999 and later Ford vehicles without the trailer wiring package:
• The red controller wire must be connected to the light green wire of the brake stop lamp through a 20-amp inline fuse.
• Failure to install a 20-amp inline fuse can destroy the controller and void the manufacturer's warranty.