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Old Apr 25, 2003 | 09:40 PM
  #1  
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Silver Streak
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From: Broken Arrow, OK
I did it!

16.89@77.09. So for all the people out there that said it couldn't be done (only a few from this board), especially the clowns at Clifford who said it couldn't be done without a few thousand dollars worth of their parts, BITE ME! I backed it up with a 16.92@76.7. The second pass actually should have been a little quicker with a 2.27 60 ft vs. a 2.32, but I spun badly on the 1-2 shift. Probably could have been a 16.7x@78.x if it had hooked on the shift. Oh well, it doesn't matter. Now on to bigger and better things, like a built engine and turbos.
 
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Old Apr 26, 2003 | 12:51 AM
  #2  
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Boss300
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From: Palatka, FL
I did it!

Congrats buddy that is awesome, keep them Vortecs and Hemis in your rear view!
 
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Old Apr 26, 2003 | 09:14 AM
  #3  
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Njbmx
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From: purgitory
I did it!

next swap your rear gears to like 3.73 or 4.11. after you change the gears, you should loose like a sec. on your et times. hey, maybe more!
 
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Old Apr 26, 2003 | 03:48 PM
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From: Broken Arrow, OK
I did it!

Swapping gears probably won't do much for me. I'm almost out of engine at the big end already.
 
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Old Apr 26, 2003 | 04:46 PM
  #5  
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Boss300
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From: Palatka, FL
I did it!

At the end what rpm are you running and what gear are you in?
 
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Old Apr 26, 2003 | 06:13 PM
  #6  
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Silver Streak
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From: Broken Arrow, OK
I did it!

I'm running about 3100 rpm in 4th through the lights, so I've only got maybe 200 rpm to play with. My engine's really laying down at 3000, and it's all done by 3300. I also don't have a problem getting off the line now, which is where deeper gears would help the most. I rebuilt the rear end last fall and considered changing ratios, but I feel a 3.08 is the best overall gear for my truck. It really isn't holding it back at the track, plus it keeps the revs reasonable on the highway. If I was running slicks I would get more benefit from lower gears, but on street tires it doesn't hook that well as is. 3.73's would only make traction harder to come by.
 
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Old Apr 26, 2003 | 11:45 PM
  #7  
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optikal illushun
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From: Coal Region
I did it!

u are my insperation for wanting to build a project 2wd 300 powered f-150. good luck n give em hell!
 
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Old Apr 27, 2003 | 07:52 AM
  #8  
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GammaDriver
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From: Southeast FLA
I did it!

With a launch RPM of 3100, I think I would consider launching in second to reduce the overall time lost to shifts. Less chance of spinning, one less shift, but it's harder on your clutch. Any chance this would work with your truck?

Which gears are you using to get down there (and when are you going to put pics and descriptors in your gallery - I can't find a description of your engine anywhere)?

Best,
 
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Old Apr 27, 2003 | 10:59 PM
  #9  
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From: Broken Arrow, OK
I did it!

I don't launch at 3100, I launch at 1500-2000 depending on how the track is hooking. It won't leave the line with any kind of authority in 2nd gear, so that's out. With 3.73's or 4.10's it would probably work great in 2nd gear, but I'd have to shift into 5th at the top end and my mileage would be destroyed (not that it's good now).

I've got a 3.08 in the rear end. I pull the 1-2 shift at 3800 rpm, 2-3 at 3500, 3-4 at 3200. The 3-4 shift happens just before half track. I also power shift it in all gears, once the lights come down the accelerator never leaves the floor board.


I need to get some pics up, but my truck looks horrible right now. I got hit 2 years ago and I'm still fighting the insurance company, which is probalby a losing battle. I also have several people waiting on sound clips of the truck, which I can hopefully get soon. Sorry guys, I'm a procrastinator.

As far as descriptions of my truck, there isn't much. It's a 1990 regular cab shortbed XLT Lariat. The engine is a stock 4.9 longblock with 235k miles on the clock, trans stock Mazda 5 speed. I've got Hedman headers, offroad pipe, and Flowmaster for exhaust. On the intake side I've got the inlet baffle removed from the intake tube, 19 lb/hr injectors, and a Crane adjustable fuel pressure regulator. Ignition is handled by an MSD 6A and TFI coil. That's it. Nothing special, just lots of flogging the combination to get the best performance from it. Now that I have a spare engine to play with I'm hoping to shave another few tenths with my stock longblock.
 
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