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Yep... Pulled the cap and the rotor would not turn when turning the engine over. Then I tryed to turn the rotor with my hand and it would not turn... Stumped me after that and thought I would see if anyone else has ever seen this....
Back when I ran Duraspark modules, I always scarfed them up from junkers, I have a bucket full. I would rather use an OEM Ford part used than a $20 piece of crap from a parts store. No aftermarket modules are up to snuff with the factory ones. But then, I use GM modules on all my Duraspark IIs now.
Better carry a spare if your going to run an el-cheapo module.
No secret to pulling the distributor. If it isn't turning the two mose likely things are a sheared pin (usually due to FOD in the oil pump) or a stripped timing gear. If the pin is sheared, go into the oil pump with a 1/4" drive deep socket taped to a long extension. Could be 1/4" or 5/16 socket, can't remember for sure. See if you can turn the pump by hand. Usually when this happens there are chunks of plastic timing gear getting in the pump. For some reason Ford though oil pump screens needed a big hole in the middle. If the oil pump drive shaft comes out with the distributor you will have to remove it from the distributor and use it to try and turn the pump.
That's what I'm thinking. The fiber cam gear went south.
Another way to test it is to take off the valve cover, and then turn the engine over by hand. If none of the rocker arms move, you more than likely need a new timing gear set.
I'm guessing the reason the distributor won't turn is because it's still fully meshed with the cam.
That's a bummer, but at least you know what the problem is. How'd you go about diagnosing it?
Fortunately, the gears aren't too expensive, and all you really have to do to access them is pull the radiator, the fan, the harmonic balancer, and then the timing cover, and they're right out in the open. The hardest part will be getting the old gears off.