Did you get one of the commercial units that works out of a 5 gal pail or one of the home units like a Wagner?

 

So jealous of the big man caves. Squeeking by with my 20x20. Not sure why the wife thinks its funny to put the kids bikes in there when I am not looking.

 

I used one of the commercial airless sprayers that works out of a 5 gal pail and sprays thru a wand almost like a pressure washer. I rented it from Home Depot. It made short work of my OSB ceiling and walls. My downstairs ceiling is the bottom of the 3/4" OSB upstairs subfloor and has 2x 10 floor joists 16" OC. I hired a guy to paint it with a roller on a rolling scaffold, in 8 hrs he painted an area ~ 6 x 10' and used 3/4 of a 5 gal pail. With the sprayer I sprayed the entire 28x28' ft ceiling and the OSB walls standing on the floor, 2 coats in 6 hrs including cleaning the sprayer, with 8 gal of paint.
I kept a roller on a long extension pole handy to pick up any runs that developed. (Weren't many.)
I used a disposable tyvek painter's coveralls with hood and a simple dust mask. That with rubber gloves taped at the wrists and I didn't need to clean me up hardly any at all.

 

Hey Ax good advice on the suit. I got one ready to go along with a respirator and gloves. I think I will be painting next weekend. Getting ready to do a sample area with the floor epoxy this weekend.

 

A good airless is the only way to go. I have two Gracos, one that I spray clear lacquer with for furniture and cabinets and the other for latex paint around my house. I painted the exterior and most of the interior with it. A lot of prep as far as covering up places that you don't want to paint, but so fast! Just make sure you use the right tips - much bigger tips for latex paints than oil or lacquer. I use a 2-11 for lacquer and a 5-15 for latex. If your pump is big enough you can get a tip that will spray a pattern 12" wide, but you better be quick and good. I have a friend who has a 65 Ford truck that he built and he painted it with an airless. While I would never attempt it, he managed to do a really nice job.

 

Before you use the epoxy on the floor, I found a much better IMHO floor paint. It's an industrial product made by Sherwin Williams (I can research the exact stock name and # if you're interested) it is a high performance moisture cured urethane, doesn't use a hardener, can be sprayed, rolled or brushed. I rolled it on with an extra wide roller. It is recommended for use on concrete, steel, or wood and applications from jet hanger floors to inside of steel water storage tanks. The best feature is fresh concrete can be coated it doesn't have to go thru a long curing (6 month curing, 1 week after acid etching, recommended for epoxy, so it's 7 months from pouring the floor until using it!) to get rid of all the moisture, in fact the moisture in the concrete helps it bond. Just acid etch the concrete, rinse thoroughly dry overnite and coat. I used 2 coats. It can be walked on in 24hrs, parked on in 7 days. It dries to a semigloss finish. It has been extremely durable with no sign of failure or lifting. There is no dusting or staining and it cleans easily. I also used SW 2 part molding filler and coved all my floor to wall junctions. I carried the floor finish 6" up the block walls.