77 Straight 6 Blown Head Gasket
#1
77 Straight 6 Blown Head Gasket
Hey guys! I'm brand new to the site, but was an avid member of a Corvair forum when I had my 68 and it was a great resource. I'm hoping this will be also!
Recently the head gasket blew on my 1977 F100, 4.9 300 Straight 6, 4 speed, reg cab, short bed. I've looked around to try to find someone to pressure check the head and essentially rebuild it. The best price I found was actually on eBay for $300. He sends me a reconditioned head and I send him my potentially damaged one.
Anyhow, my question is actually this: I found a guy on my local craigslist selling a freshly reconditioned head off a 1982 F150/F100, 4.9 300 Straight 6, for $175.00, what a deal! I just don't know if it will be an exact replacement, or if I will need to make modifications? If anybody could shed some light on the subject I would be very grateful. Thanks!
Recently the head gasket blew on my 1977 F100, 4.9 300 Straight 6, 4 speed, reg cab, short bed. I've looked around to try to find someone to pressure check the head and essentially rebuild it. The best price I found was actually on eBay for $300. He sends me a reconditioned head and I send him my potentially damaged one.
Anyhow, my question is actually this: I found a guy on my local craigslist selling a freshly reconditioned head off a 1982 F150/F100, 4.9 300 Straight 6, for $175.00, what a deal! I just don't know if it will be an exact replacement, or if I will need to make modifications? If anybody could shed some light on the subject I would be very grateful. Thanks!
#3
#5
This is the only info I found on any difference in heads. I know any head from 65 to the end of production will fit on any 300. May be just a matter of some small differences in the rocker arm studs. Or, you may get it, and it's completely identical. Either way, any differences are small.
1965-77 3/8" studs with smog
Cast #: C5AE,C8AE
VIN #: B
1965-77 3/8" studs without smog
Cast #: C5AE,C8AE
VIN #: B
1977-84 5/16" studs with smog
Cast #: D2TE
VIN #: B,Y,E,9
1977-84 5/16" studs without smog
Cast #: D2TE
VIN #: B,Y,E,9
1965-77 3/8" studs with smog
Cast #: C5AE,C8AE
VIN #: B
1965-77 3/8" studs without smog
Cast #: C5AE,C8AE
VIN #: B
1977-84 5/16" studs with smog
Cast #: D2TE
VIN #: B,Y,E,9
1977-84 5/16" studs without smog
Cast #: D2TE
VIN #: B,Y,E,9
#6
Thanks for the info! I'm brand new to cylinder heads and this will be my first try. I think before I buy the head I will grab a Chilton's manual and take my cylinder head off first so I can compare the two side by side. Or would you say it's a safe bet to go ahead and get the new head just to make sure no one else snags it?
#7
Understanding the whole process is always a great thing to do before any big project. However, removing the cylinder head is actually a pretty easy job, especially on a carb'd motor. The hardest part is getting the head BACK onto the engine if you don't have a lift. It's big, heavy, and it's a long reach! I had to get really clever when I did mine.
I'd say it's safe to get it before anyone else does. IF there are any differences, they'd be minor and wouldn't be difficult to get around.
I'd also suggest new rocker arms/nuts/fulcrums, etc. while you're at it.
I'd say it's safe to get it before anyone else does. IF there are any differences, they'd be minor and wouldn't be difficult to get around.
I'd also suggest new rocker arms/nuts/fulcrums, etc. while you're at it.
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