When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
I have the alternator hooked up but I need to figure out where this plug goes?
I scored this cross over and a water pump pulley and dip stick tube for the transmission yesterday at the JY
All the sensors are hooked up except the oil pressure sensor end has to be fixed.
Finally I am surprised my fuel lines didn't leak.
Thats all for now.
If you don't want a fire in this truck too, replace that 2G alternator with a 3G unit. It can be done very cheap with junkyard parts.
All you need is the Alternator*, alternator cable and bracket from a 5.0 or 5.8 E-series van from the 90's and you'll be good to go. The only new part you really need is a new serpentine belt. A good Goodyear Gatorback will do the trick.
* The 3G alternator will have the fan internally inside the case, not like the one in your picture, just besides the alternator pulley. You want a large case 3G too, because it will make 130amp; if you look right behind the pulley, there wll be holes in the case, notice the ones between the nerves (like every 120°) if there are 2 holes, it's a large case, if there are 4 holes, it's a small case, and even though it's an upgrade from the 72amp of the 2G, it's only 95amp.
I got the truck running under its own power! Upgraded to a 2 row spectre radiator, bought a cheap thrush muffler to have a complete exhaust for right now and replace one bad u-joint on the rear drive line. Tomorrow I am going to the JY to see if I can find the right dipstick tube I grabbed one off of a c6 I think. Also have to find some seat belt buckles. Maybe if I get lucky I can find a 3G alternator and harness. As far as the interior goes I have to figure out why the passenger window rolls down but not up ans the driver side doesnt work at all, the electric locks don't work either I hope it's just the switch? The paint is going to get sanded down and the few dents are going to be fixed and then some primer will be laid for the future (I have no clue) paint job.
You have to take out both window motors (I'm assuming power windows here), and open the rotating assembly, there are 3 eccentric plastic gears in there, I'm betting the ones on the driver's side are broken and the ones on the passenger's side are on it's way out, replace them with similar gears from the HELP section of your local store and the windows should work fine again. There is another possible repair using nuts instead of the gears, 3/8 I think... Do a search. Yet another option is to get replacements, Dorman makes some nice units, and they aren't expensive neither, you can get both for around $70 at amazon (742-250 driver's and 742-251 passenger's): Amazon.com: Dorman 742-250 Ford/Lincoln/Mercury Power Window Lift Motor: Automotive
Anyway... If you have the means, check if the motor on your side is being feed, the same goes to the locks.
I got this at the wrecking yard today.
It's alittle dirty but it checked out at autozone ok. I have to get the some large gauge cable and a fuse. Got the alternator or $35. I hope it's the right one Encho.
That's a large case 3G alright. Do a search on the forum, the 3G alternator swap is a very straight forward process. Of course, the alternator has to have the same mounting pattern as the old one, if it doesn't, it might require some fabrication to fit it in (but from the pictures it looks like you won't have issues with that).
I am getting all the wiring and mega fuse together I hope that the mounting locations are in the relative spot so I can get it to fit. If I am correct I got a 130 amp alternator. I do have a question do I need 4 gauge or 6 gauge wire? For the alternator to the battery?
Well yesterday I had finally got all the parts for the 3G swap. So I went ahead a swap, and i am more than happy with the resolutes. 14.5 volts at idle and 14.4 volts wit everything thing on. The hardest part was notching the bracket for the alternator fit. But other than that it was easy.
In the truck.
All hooked up.
I removed the smog canister on the fender well just to get it going and left the wires alittle long. I had to move it from the shop to my house so I am going to just move the fuse towards the front a few inches. Yesterday I also replaced the throttle cable. The truck is a lot more responsive now. I did get some seat belt clips from a truck a scraped. So those as well as a new middle seat belt were installed. I am going to start on the ball joints and steering links soon and get the tranny flushed and filter replaced. But now that the truck is home and not at dads I should have more time to work on it.
Work on the truck some today did ball joints greased the bearings and replaced the seals. Also picked up some decent set some tires and some nice looking chrome wheels. The wheels need some cleaning up, and tires are about 70%.
New ball joints:
New steering arm set up:
New tires and wheels/tires:
I wonder if you can still find some Mountain Ryder replacement shocks! But seriously I am doing some research on replacement shocks.
I did some trouble shooting tonight on the electronics, the drivers side window motor is no good. Has power at the switch but nothing in the motor, so that need replaced. The passenger side little gear is bad, also has power at the switch and only goes down if you help it, so I am going to replace the motor. And door locks have a good ground but only locks on the passenger side and won't unlock, but the drivers side switch nothing happens so I am guessing that the switches are bad. I figured out (since it is raining here lately) that the windshield wipers only work if you turn the switch on and off really quick. Sucks if you drive down the highway. I got to put my new fuel filter in yet, should help with the drive ability a bit.
Today I got one step closer to my end goal (but its never really done is it). First I will give you I tires to look at.
New tires/wheels on the front:
New fuel filter installed:
Moved my fuse for the alternator and reinstalled the smog canister:
Today I finished up the ball joint and steering arm install. I set the toe pretty close and need a quick alignment. Also in the process of rerouting the starter cable and the leads to the alternator fuse block I cracked a vacuum line, so I put a piece of heat shrink on it then wrapped some black tape and more heat shrink, no leaks. It's only temporary I plan on replacing all the vacuum lines with those fancy quick connect lines you see on the power block. I finally replaced the spark plug wires with some 8mm units from Autozone. The old fuel filter was probably the OEM unit and had some chunks of crap come out, dad and I blow the fuel lines out just for added insurance. Went over the original list of To-Do's and crossed off a lot and made a new one.
1- door lock relay (trouble shoot)
2- window motors
3- windshield motor or switch
4- replacement windshield
5- trany dipstick
6- trany power flush w/ filter and gasket replacement
7- rear axle seals
8- rear brake shoes
9- rear wheel cylinders
10- brake flush
11- shocks (front and rear)
12- alignment
13- O2 sensor (I have a replacement but the OEM is ceased in there)
Some of it isn't to important right away but there is just a little to do before I can drive it every day. Some upgrades I want to do are cab lights (always liked the look) I have some off road lights that I want to install but I am gong to get an aux fuse block so I can install my CB and lights and not have to tap into the OE harness. And later on I want to get a new vinyl for mat and some heat/sound shield and a paint job.
Earlier this week I ordered some Raybestso 5871126 replacement coil springs for an extended cab F150. I got them install this afternoon to level out the front end. Brought the front end up 3", but in a lapse of judgement I forgot to order the alignment bushings. But I will get some at Autozone. I also ordered a replacement dipstick and tube but its on back order with no timeframe of shipment. So I am going to search a few more junk yards. Now for some pictures.
New and old:
Installed:
Level (camera moved at the last moment but its level)
Caster is way out:
That's all I got for now. I still haven't ordered my window motors or door lock relay. The power accessories are next on the list.
Rezvani's Latest Post-Apocalyptic Monster Is a Ford F-150 Raptor Underneath
Slideshow: Called the Fortress, the 850-horsepower pickup combines Raptor underpinnings with military-inspired features, survival equipment, and a starting price of $285,000.