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Well since I've sold my truck, I thought I wouldn't be on here much anymore. But apparently I'm now a mediator for my friend who isn't very forum-literate. Anyways, he was having some issues with his temps being an average of 30 degrees apart, so he changed his t-stat out this morning and now his coolant is climbing up to where it should be, but his temp difference is still 15-20 degrees on average. He was having an issue with disappearing coolant a while back along with some white smoke on startup and the first few miles he drove it after it had sat for a while. We were kinda thinking that his oil cooler might be clogged and had taken the EGR cooler with it, but now we're not sure since the issue has completely stopped and it's not loosing anymore coolant. He's still thinking about changing out his oil cooler anyways to be on the safe side and doing an EGR delete, but the guy is incredibly tight and he said that instead of buying an EGR delete, he was going to weld the EGR cooler shut on the exhaust ends. I had never heard of this until I googled it and of course the first thing I came across was a Bill H video. But are there any major cons to this method or does it work ok?
The EGR cooler needs to be closed off on BOTH ends if you choose to go that method. If the cooler core fails it won't allow coolant into the intake manifold and cause a potential hydrolock situation. Mine has been this way for 60K miles with no issues.
The EGR cooler needs to be closed off on BOTH ends if you choose to go that method. If the cooler core fails it won't allow coolant into the intake manifold and cause a potential hydrolock situation. Mine has been this way for 60K miles with no issues.
With it being an '03 I assume you have the round stainless steel cooler. If so, go to Advance Auto and get a STEEL 1.375" (1 3/8") engine block freeze plug. It should press fit in the exhaust inlet end of the cooler. Mine did. If you want, you can spot weld it, once you press it in. Then unplug the EGR valve. You will get a CEL when you do. You have two choices, live with it, as I did, or get an SCT street tune that will eliminate the EGR CEL.
Then unplug the EGR valve. You will get a CEL when you do. You have two choices, live with it, as I did, or get an SCT street tune that will eliminate the EGR CEL.
Don't unplug the EGR valve, if you do the radiator fan will not spoil-up to keep the truck from overheating. If the cooler is blocked on both ends or deleted it won't matter what the valve does. As far as CEL, the '03 & '04 trucks won't set one if the cooler is blocked. That's a '05 and up thing.
With it being an '03 I assume you have the round stainless steel cooler. If so, go to Advance Auto and get a STEEL 1.375" (1 3/8") engine block freeze plug. It should press fit in the exhaust inlet end of the cooler. Mine did. If you want, you can spot weld it, once you press it in. Then unplug the EGR valve. You will get a CEL when you do. You have two choices, live with it, as I did, or get an SCT street tune that will eliminate the EGR CEL.
DSMMH
No the truck in question is an 06. I sold my 03 so I no longer own a 6.0. I'm going back to a Tacoma.
Anyways, he is going to get his brother who is a machinist to do the welding for him. But he has Matt's tunes to shut off the EGR valve anyways.
I just did this to my 05. Welded a frost plug in both ends of the egr cooler. Also welded one in the up-pipe and cut the scoop out of the up-pipe. Left egr valve plugged in. No engine light and no codes. Runs way better. I did this while in there to fix stc fitting. We will see what goes wrong next.
I just did this to my 05. Welded a frost plug in both ends of the egr cooler. Also welded one in the up-pipe and cut the scoop out of the up-pipe. Left egr valve plugged in. No engine light and no codes. Runs way better. I did this while in there to fix stc fitting. We will see what goes wrong next.
I had heard that it was best to leave it connected to the up-pipe though because it can crack the flex pipe if it moves too much.
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