I'm getting ready for the initial startup on a Ford-rebuilt 460 (at least it came from my Ford dealership and they said Ford rebuilt it) and I'm not exactly sure on a couple points.
First off, I am breaking it in with good oil (Rotel triple protection), and a Motorcraft filter. I'll be changing oil after the 20 minutes at 1800RPM, and again after 50 miles, then again at 150 miles. From there I was going to go to 1500 miles, change again, then start with 3000mi changes.
Every place I've read says to stay below 3000RPM and to keep the load light and RPM varied for the first few hundred miles, which is where the first question is. I live up a fairly steep hill (9% and about a mile long). Will this hill cause me any problems as far as the whole "no load" thing?
Also, when is a good time to switch from Rotel to synthetic? I was figuring on doing at the 1500 mile change.

 

what grade Rotella? i would run the 15w40, i used this on my motor break in and its great. do the oil change after your first initial start up like you posted then go to 500miles for the next, 1500, 3000 miles. then you can convert over to synthetics or continue to run the oil your using.

rpm fluctuation is important to help seat the rings, so is putting a slight load on the motor which going up the hill to your place should provide that. just dont go screaming up. make sure the timing is set to its stock setting, after the 3000 miles you can advance if you like.

 

I think everyone has a differant idea about motor break in, I have always ran them for 20 minutes at 2000 rpm, changed the oil and just drove it like normal. In our 78 Ford van with a 351w we fired it up on thursday and was pulling our camp Trailer to the camp ground on friday. That motor went over 300,000 miles with no problems. We ran nothing but Valvoline 20/50 in that engine since the first oil change.

 

I have 15w40 for the break in oil, and I may use your schedule as well, Kemicalburns.
I'm leaning heavily toward Rotella's T6 5w40 synthetic because of the still-high levels of ZDDP (1200ppm). Any thoughts or experiences with this oil?

 

Stay away from synthetics for a least the first 2 early changes. Synthetics make a motor wear incredibly slow, but are too slippery for proper break in. Use a good quality dino oil with break in additives for your desired zinc content. I, like said above, run mine normal almost immediately after initial 20-30 min break in. The initial 20-0 min break in is mostly for the cam if its flat tappet. Different load and rom helps RI.gs seat as well, and so does covering the cylinder walls with atf during assembly.