f700 fuel solenoid problem
f700 fuel solenoid problem
My F700 shuts off sporatically while driving and now is stuck in my driveway. I replaced the fuel solenoid already and that was not it. When I hold the solenoid down manually it will start and run no problem. Also, I am not getting any power to the plug on the solenoid. I think it is either the ignition switch on the column or a relay somewhere. Does anyone have a wiring diagram for the solenoid/ignition? or any ideas of where to go next.
If you want to throw a part at it for sake of reliability, go with an ign switch. If that's not it, then at least you have peace of mind. You could run a new 12 or 14ga wire from the ign switch or fuse panel for testing purposes.
went to order a new switch through ford. they told me it may be the relay. come to find out there is one mounted up under the glove box, of all places. took it out and it looks like it may be burnt on the power terminal. i will have a new one tomorrow. its not an exact replacement (discontinued) but the new one has instructinons on how to wire up correctly. we will see. THANKS FOR YOUR HELP GUYS! i will let you know how i make out!
Russ
Russ
went to order a new switch through ford. they told me it may be the relay. come to find out there is one mounted up under the glove box, of all places. took it out and it looks like it may be burnt on the power terminal. i will have a new one tomorrow. its not an exact replacement (discontinued) but the new one has instructinons on how to wire up correctly. we will see. THANKS FOR YOUR HELP GUYS! i will let you know how i make out!
Russ
Russ
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If it is like the F700 I helped a fellow with there are two really weird looking relays on the top of the firewall. One is a start relay, the other is a run relay. One is powered when ever the key is on, the other is powered while cranking. The fuel solenoid works the lever on the side of the injection pump. It has three positions, off, run and start. What I did was use a Bosch relay in a fog lamp kit to replace the bad run relay on the truck, that was 5 or 6 years ago.
Well, I put the new relay in that Ford sold me. It started right up with no troubles. I am taking the truck out tomorrow for a 60 mile run. I will keep everyone posted. Thanks for all your advice.
Russ
Russ
Many miles on it since the relay change. That was definately the problem. I would like to attempt to adjust the pump for some more power, she is very sluggish! I did notice that one of the bolts on the exhaust side of the turbocharger is missing and I should fix this before I start messing with the timing and pump. What do you think?
Yes, you should replace the bolt, just in case exhaust starts leaking out from added fuel. Not a life & death thing to do, though. You can certainly do the screw & timing. The timing is almost identical to the DT466 in my other video. The difference being, you find your timing marks(about 13-15*), loosen up the 4 retaining bolts on the gear, then rotate the engine back to your desired advance(17-19*), then tighten it all back up. The 7.8's actually have a peep window like the DT466 to see the timing marks, the 6.6 doesnt, which makes it a little harder. OK, not harder, but more time consuming since it's the same process.
I get a lot of good reports of happy drivers after just the fuel adjustment on my Facebook page. I makes a nice difference, but nothing wild & crazy. That's another story.
went to order a new switch through ford. they told me it may be the relay. come to find out there is one mounted up under the glove box, of all places. took it out and it looks like it may be burnt on the power terminal. i will have a new one tomorrow. its not an exact replacement (discontinued) but the new one has instructinons on how to wire up correctly. we will see. THANKS FOR YOUR HELP GUYS! i will let you know how i make out!
Russ
Russ
you can buy a relay switch at most parts store for $10.you need to test which wire is power from the fuse box,a constant 12 volts weather the engine is running or not ,and which wire is power from the ignition switch ,12volts when the key is in crank and run position












