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1987 - 1996 F150 & Larger F-Series Trucks 1987 - 1996 Ford F-150, F-250, F-350 and larger pickups - including the 1997 heavy-duty F250/F350+ trucks

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Old Feb 24, 2012 | 09:29 PM
  #16  
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95blackf-150
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From: belleview fl
im having a simialer problem with my 95 f150 with a 4r70w in it instead of replacing the transmission i replaced the front clip and now it skips 2nd and goes to third and wont shift into fourth also it will only shift into third around 30 to 40 mph
 
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Old Feb 24, 2012 | 11:15 PM
  #17  
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rla2005
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Originally Posted by Nick_lebbad
sometimes your computers don't just clear from disconnecting.. maybe try having your local parts shop clear your codes if you are able to safely drive it to one
With no +12V to power the Keep Alive Memory (KAM), which is volatile RAM, the codes will be cleared. Whomever told you otherwise is completely wrong.
 
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Old Feb 24, 2012 | 11:27 PM
  #18  
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rla2005
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In your other thread about this transmission swap I recall you had issues/questions about the difference in MLPSes and their related connectors. The solenoid block connector is also different between your 1993 and the 1995 truck.

This is the 1993 solenoid block connector:


This is the connector for the 1995 and up E4OD:


If you did not change the solenoid block then you have two issues going on here. First, the old style connector can be forced to fit on the newer block, but you will most likely have connection problems. The second issue is the 1995 and up solenoid blocks do not have the solenoid protection diodes on them, Ford moved them to the PCM. These diodes are designed to protect the driver transistors in the PCM from the voltage spike that occurs when power is removed from the solenoids. Without those diodes you risk ruining your PCM.

Two options here. First is putting your old solenoid block in the newer transmission. It is a plug and play swap. The second would be to use the PCM from the 1995 truck. You would still have to overcome the connector issue you are now facing.
 
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Old Feb 24, 2012 | 11:51 PM
  #19  
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dmanlyr
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From: Puyallup, WA
Well without the proper diagnostic tool, or having someone else use there tool to check for codes you might as well as just put up a dart board and start throwing darts. Who knows, you might get lucky.

That said, lots of good advice has been ventured out so far, advice that points you in the proper direction to proceded. ANYTIME you are dealing with a computer controlled system, the second item to check for is codes. What is the first Check for loose / poor battery cable connections. Do these two items first... then proceed further. Jumping into the middle of things just gets costly.

My two cents, David
 
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Old Feb 24, 2012 | 11:55 PM
  #20  
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rla2005
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