Sounds like we got it, Condor945.

The accelerator pump is working correctly.

The choke connection sounds like it is drawing 12V and working correctly. If the carburetor and choke are set correctly, a daily driven carbureted vehicle should start quickly with only one or two pumps of the gas and continue running without stalling in all but the most extreme cold weather.

The vacuum advance is in the right place.

And it sounds like the choke and idle circuits are reasonably close. The correct idle settings for your truck should be listed on your emissions sticker under the hood. Keep adjusting these until you get there or they work like you want, get the air/fuel mixture adjusted properly, and you will be amazed at how well a properly tuned carburetor can run!

I would also suggest keeping the stock thermostatic air cleaner as well. When hooked up and working correctly, it will supply the carburetor with warm air for cold operation and doubles as a cold air intake for when the engine heats up for better driveability, economy, AND performance.

 

Will do. I'm going to keep the air cleaner that I have.

Any thoughts on the hard engagement that it has when it shifts into gear? Any another vacuum related items that could cause that? Or is it likely due to the long time that the transmission sat inactive?

 

Make sure that the vacuum hoses are hooked up that control the vacuum motor on the air cleaner snorkel. This will adjust the flapper to get warm air from the exhaust manifold or cool air from the front of the radiator. Also make sure the duct from the air cleaner snorkel to the exhaust manifold and to the radiator is in place. These items tend to go missing on older trucks.

If the idle speed is set too high, the transmission will engage harder from Park to Reverse. 1000 RPM sounds a little high for the curb idle in Park. Try to get it down to 750-800 RPM or so, and see if it is smoother when shifted to Reverse. If the curb idle is set too low, however, the engine will want to stall when put in gear.

 

Got a pic of the vacuum hoses? All disconnected or gone when I got the truck.

 

Alright... I have photos to share, but I'm having a blonde moment. How do I upload photos? I do not see any options that give me that ability to. I know I received more rights once I changed from being a, "New User" to a "Freshman User" but I dont know if I'm actualy able to upload photos. Can anyone share info? I'm sure its most likely opertator error...

 

Only Supporters can directly attach pictures (and other files) to posts, the rest of us have to upload them to a hosting service (photobucket, flickr, whatever) then use the IMG code they provide to have those pictures show up in posts.

User Gallery & Picture Display Help - Ford Truck Enthusiasts Forums

Movie made a diesel forum member:
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...he-forums.html

 

Thank You!

 

Below are some diagrams that I have about hose placement... But I'll take a couple shots of my carb when I get home and upload those as well.


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Ok - thought I'd give an update. I took the truck out really for its first drive since the new motor and transmission swap. Probably drove it for an hour and got it out in the highway so i was able to open it up.

Upon start up the high idle ran around 1600 which seemed good to me. I let it run like that for about 10 mins and tapped the throttle, but it only dropped down to about 1,100. Then I put it into gear and it died. Once I restarted it it was idling at 800 (which is what I had the curb idle set at) and I immediately put it into gear. It engaged, RPM's dropped to 550, but it didn't die. Any thoughts?

I then took it out and upon acceleration if I stomped on it it would bog down and almost die, so I took it easy for a while. Once I got it on the highway and pushed it to those higher speeds it showed a little hesitation but seemed to push through them. After the highway speeds I could stomp on the throttle and it wouldn't bog down.

Overall besides it dieing initially and the little bogging it did well. I have some Lucas fuel injector/carb cleaner in with the gas and I'm hoping that once I push some gas through the carb it may help it run better and hopefully alleviate the dieing once being put into gear.

The transmission also seemed to have a "clunk" to it when it was put in gear also, but I'm hoping the transtune will help clean that up.

 

See that hose connection that says "timed spark vacuum source". I know some of these trucks had a weird setup with timed and manifold vacuum to the distributor, but I think I am safe to say if you get the truck fully warmed up, and it's setting on your curb idle screw, and you can take this line off while it's running and the idle drops and you can feel vacuum on this port, your idle is still set too high. There should be no vacuum on this port at the fully warmed up idle setting.

 

I think I have basically the same carb but with a manual choke (750 4160) and yes it does as you say. There is a small amout of vacuum present at idle. I set my timing with it disconnected, then plug the vacuum line back on and timing will advance about 4 degees....idle will go up a little too.

I had alwasy assumed that it was supposed to and that's why they tell you to disconnect and plug this port while doing your intial timing. By stating this...they (whoever "they" are) must know it's going to affect the timing....or they wouldn't say to disconnect it.

At any rate...my holley does just as you say Dave

 

I'm not sure why it is dying like that, but you do not have to let it run for 10 minutes before you tap the throttle. I noticed you did this in an earlier post as well. When the engine fires up and the choke has it on fast idle, just let it run like that for about 20 seconds or so, then hit the throttle to bring the fast idle cam to the next step. If it is extremely cold, maybe a minute or two. The idle will still be a bit higher than a fully warmed up engine so the engine won't stall when you put it in gear. After the engine warms completely up, the idle will come down to your curb idle setting on its own. An engine will reach operating temperature much faster when it is driven rather than sitting at idle.

What size (cfm) is the Holley 4160? Is the fuel filter clean?

I bought a brand new Holley Avenger a few years ago and it did the exact same thing. I never could tune all of it out, either. My original Motorcraft 2V carburetor never did this, and neither does my current Autolite 4100. I am sure that is not normal, though. A lot of people love Holleys, and they are probably the most common carburetor in use today.

 

It is a 600 cfm and the filter is clean. I'll continue to do some tweaking with it tomorrow since it will be 52 degrees and give you an update.

 

Ok... I got it good and warm. Once it was it was warm it was ideling at about 1,000 RPM's. I disconnected the Vacuum advanced hose and the RPM's immediately dropped to about 700 and I could feel vacuum on that port just with my finger. I put the vacuum advance hose back on and turned the curb idle down to decrease the RPM's to 650. Now when I take the vacuum advance hose off the RPM's stay pretty similar (+ or - 50 RPM's)

Now with it ideling at 650 when I put it into gear it's a smooth engagement with no clunk and the RPM's drop to around 400 with it in gear.