Long cranking before start!
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New User
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 24
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From: Whittier, CA.
Long cranking before start!
Howdy folks,
I have a 2006 F250 6.0 with 90,000 miles on it, changed the oil every 4000 miles, changed the fuel filter every 10 to 12,000 miles (currently have about 5000 miles on this fuel filter).
Here's the problem, went out the other morning to start my truck, it cranked over a lot longer than usual, then started abruptly, ran rough for about 2 seconds then seem to run fine. Ever since then, it has been starting the same way, I don't see any smoke at start-up, or at any other time while I'm driving (unless I'm passing a Prius
). When I'm driving, the truck runs fine.
If anyone has any suggestions, I can use the help!
Thank you!
I have a 2006 F250 6.0 with 90,000 miles on it, changed the oil every 4000 miles, changed the fuel filter every 10 to 12,000 miles (currently have about 5000 miles on this fuel filter).
Here's the problem, went out the other morning to start my truck, it cranked over a lot longer than usual, then started abruptly, ran rough for about 2 seconds then seem to run fine. Ever since then, it has been starting the same way, I don't see any smoke at start-up, or at any other time while I'm driving (unless I'm passing a Prius
). When I'm driving, the truck runs fine. If anyone has any suggestions, I can use the help!
Thank you!
New User
Joined: Dec 2011
Posts: 12
Likes: 0
A friend of mine had the same problem and he started adding automatic transmission fluid to every 3rd or 4th tank of fuel and he has noticed a big improvement. I wasnt having any problems with starting but have also started to do this and have noticed a big difference also!! Hope this works for you!!
Token Redneck
Joined: Jun 2007
Posts: 9,339
Likes: 350
From: Breckenridge, TX
^^^^ 
What kind of diagnostic capability do you have? Start with checking voltage (during and after GP cycle), FICM voltage, fuel pressure, ICP and IPR%.
Could be a number of things, from low FICM voltage to a leaking HPO fitting or o-ring.
What kind of diagnostic capability do you have? Start with checking voltage (during and after GP cycle), FICM voltage, fuel pressure, ICP and IPR%.
Could be a number of things, from low FICM voltage to a leaking HPO fitting or o-ring.
Postmaster
Joined: Oct 2007
Posts: 4,202
Likes: 1
From: Illinois
I'm sorry, that's too funny. Also, check fuel pressure.
Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 1,372
Likes: 14
From: West Cornwall, CT
My '06 was cranking longer than usual before starting. A check of battery voltage during and right after startup showed that the batteries were at the end of their useful life.
A new pair of Motocraft batteries brought things back to where they should be. Battery degradation sneaks up on us. We do not notice the slight change in how long it takes to start our trucks or how fast the engine cranks over. Maybe a lot of the FICM failures we hear about are actually caused by weak batteries...
Lou Braun
A new pair of Motocraft batteries brought things back to where they should be. Battery degradation sneaks up on us. We do not notice the slight change in how long it takes to start our trucks or how fast the engine cranks over. Maybe a lot of the FICM failures we hear about are actually caused by weak batteries...
Lou Braun
Token Redneck
Joined: Jun 2007
Posts: 9,339
Likes: 350
From: Breckenridge, TX
FICM voltage (test procedure is definately in the Tech Folder) should be 48V, never less than 45V. Even in the high 30sV the truck isn't healthy, and that can cause rough running and injector problems.
Main voltage can run into the 10/11s for up to the first 2 mins while the glow plugs cycle, but should kick up into the high 13Vs once the alternator starts charging the batteries. No matter how it sags, FICM V should stay at 45+V.
You can load test each battery separately to see how they're holding up, one of the two being bad can cause problems and they tend to die suddenly. I went from "A-Ok" to the starter not clicking in under a week, and I was watching all my volt on a gauge.
Hands down easiest way to check all this without running a multi-meter all under your hood is a ScanGauge: ScanGaugeII : Linear Logic - Home of the ScanGauge You can search up dozens of threads here that explain how to use it to check about 90% of what you need to watch on the truck, and if you put up readings from it it really helps all the tech-inclined guys pinpoint problems faster. It's cheaper than a single 2" gauge, and covers so much ground it really is a must-have.
Good luck with it
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Senior User
Joined: Sep 2010
Posts: 138
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What is the tranny fluid thing?
Is he putting that in his gas tank? If so what does that do?
Don't plan on doing it, just curious.
Is he putting that in his gas tank? If so what does that do?
Don't plan on doing it, just curious.
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Token Redneck
Joined: Jun 2007
Posts: 9,339
Likes: 350
From: Breckenridge, TX
He's saying that the transmission fluid is acting as a fuel lubricity additive, some people also swear by two-cycle oil or motor oil. Most people use an actual fuel additive, like OptiLube or Power Service.
Former Vendor
Joined: Feb 2010
Posts: 1,803
Likes: 6
Various of the autoparts stores will also check for trouble codes on your truck at no cost, but the Scan Gauge really is slick.
Directions on how to check the FICM voltages are also up on the FAQ page at ficmrepair.com (go figure, right?).
Good luck!
Directions on how to check the FICM voltages are also up on the FAQ page at ficmrepair.com (go figure, right?).
Good luck!
Postmaster
Joined: Jul 2011
Posts: 3,263
Likes: 0
From: Houston, TX
no offense to the other guys who posted on here but i'd load test the batteries individually first. if batteries are fine, then i'd check the alternator next. jus to be on safe side b4 i go check the ficm. process of elimination. most of the time, it may jus be the batteries. if getting new batteries, jus make sure they're over 850 cca
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