390 FE Distributor stuck when warm...
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Junior User
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390 FE Distributor stuck when warm...
Anyone have this happen?
When engine is cold the distributor can be turned easy by hand.
When the engine is warmed up, the distributor is impossible to turn.
Pulled the distributor out and found some dirt/sludge. Cleaned out what I could reach. The o-ring/seal on the distributor shaft is stiff. Put some grease on the seal before reinstalling. Same problem, turns when cold, no way to rotate when the engine block is warm.
I'm thinking it might be a slight misalignment between the engine block and the intake. Can't imagine a stiff seal with grease on it holding back the force of channel locks to the distributor shaft.
When engine is cold the distributor can be turned easy by hand.
When the engine is warmed up, the distributor is impossible to turn.
Pulled the distributor out and found some dirt/sludge. Cleaned out what I could reach. The o-ring/seal on the distributor shaft is stiff. Put some grease on the seal before reinstalling. Same problem, turns when cold, no way to rotate when the engine block is warm.
I'm thinking it might be a slight misalignment between the engine block and the intake. Can't imagine a stiff seal with grease on it holding back the force of channel locks to the distributor shaft.
Logistics Pro
Joined: Jan 2011
Posts: 4,762
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From: Antelope Valley ,CA
sounds normal on install , i bump the starter to pull dizzy down last inch instead of forcing it .
i know they are tight so maybe the seal being hard as rock just doesn't allow it to move once warm .
i know they are tight so maybe the seal being hard as rock just doesn't allow it to move once warm .
Lead Driver
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 9,893
Likes: 12
From: Ohio
The distributor registers in a cavity in the block. Likely it's a bit tight and that is the reason it tightens up when the block gets warm(aluminum swells and grabs ahold of the block).
Once you get it out, take some sandpaper and wrap around the base area and sand it slightly and try again. Make sure you clean up any aluminum dust before sticking it back in. Shouldn't take much to make it fit better.
Once you get it out, take some sandpaper and wrap around the base area and sand it slightly and try again. Make sure you clean up any aluminum dust before sticking it back in. Shouldn't take much to make it fit better.
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Junior User
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The distributor registers in a cavity in the block. Likely it's a bit tight and that is the reason it tightens up when the block gets warm(aluminum swells and grabs ahold of the block).
Once you get it out, take some sandpaper and wrap around the base area and sand it slightly and try again. Make sure you clean up any aluminum dust before sticking it back in. Shouldn't take much to make it fit better.
Once you get it out, take some sandpaper and wrap around the base area and sand it slightly and try again. Make sure you clean up any aluminum dust before sticking it back in. Shouldn't take much to make it fit better.
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Junior User
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No luck.
Lightly sanded and filed the part of the distributor that interfaces with the engine block. Cleaned the seat in the block it sits in. Even put anti-seize on the area they touch.
Had a 3 minute window to turn the distributor while the engine was running. As time passed it got progressively harder to turn. Then, like before, it was impossible to turn.
I'd like to set total timing but want the engine to warm up first before blasting it up to 3,500 rpm or more. But by then it's too late. I settled for setting the initial timing after start-up. Got close to my goal. Next time I will dial it in closer. Have to wait several hours for it to cool off enough to turn again.
Lightly sanded and filed the part of the distributor that interfaces with the engine block. Cleaned the seat in the block it sits in. Even put anti-seize on the area they touch.
Had a 3 minute window to turn the distributor while the engine was running. As time passed it got progressively harder to turn. Then, like before, it was impossible to turn.
I'd like to set total timing but want the engine to warm up first before blasting it up to 3,500 rpm or more. But by then it's too late. I settled for setting the initial timing after start-up. Got close to my goal. Next time I will dial it in closer. Have to wait several hours for it to cool off enough to turn again.
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Logistics Pro
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From: Antelope Valley ,CA
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Junior User
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Engine temp is one thing that is working right.
Have a 180 thermostat and a new 4 core radiator. Temp holds steady.
Wondering if an aftermarket distributor with a machined distributor shaft would fit better and allow rotation when the engine is warmed up.
Have a 180 thermostat and a new 4 core radiator. Temp holds steady.
Wondering if an aftermarket distributor with a machined distributor shaft would fit better and allow rotation when the engine is warmed up.
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Junior User
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Looked a little closer.
It appears that the intake opening is not centered on the distributor shaft.
The gap between the shaft and the intake is just a little wider on driver's side than the passenger's side.
Don't know if this is enough to cause it to bind up.
Next time I start the truck I will check the gap after it is fully warmed up.
It appears that the intake opening is not centered on the distributor shaft.
The gap between the shaft and the intake is just a little wider on driver's side than the passenger's side.
Don't know if this is enough to cause it to bind up.
Next time I start the truck I will check the gap after it is fully warmed up.
More Turbo
Joined: Feb 2011
Posts: 540
Likes: 3
had the exact same problem with my factory points dist. changed out to a D.U.I. HEI dist and now it turns just fine. but i am still having a problem with oil spewing from around the seal. new seal on a new dist and a new intake. only thing I can think of is the hole in the intake may be machined a hair to big. thinking about taking a spare gasket to the local industrial rubber/gasket shop and see about having them cut me one slightly larger o.d.
Laughing Gas
Joined: Aug 2008
Posts: 840
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My Offy manifold always leaked there too. Am using a Mallory distributor. Different manufacturers, non of them Ford, no real surprise. Here's how I fixed it:
I took some thick gasket paper and cut a strip the width of the o-ring slot machined into the distributor. I wrapped it around, marked it, and carefully cut it to the exact length so it would fit in the slot and not over-lap, and not have a gap.
Then I installed the o-ring over that, widest diameter on top (o-ring has "sort" of a square cross-sceetion).
On the heating problem, I don't have any ideas other than as it starts to get tight, rotate it back and forth a little bit and then look for wear marks (as someone above suggested). Coat with a little Machinist's Blueing might help find the tight spot. Once you know what's going on, you'll be better able to determine what to do about it.
I don't recommend spraying the distributor with CO2, or cold water, or packing ice around it. It might work, or you might break something due to thermal shock.
Good luck !
I took some thick gasket paper and cut a strip the width of the o-ring slot machined into the distributor. I wrapped it around, marked it, and carefully cut it to the exact length so it would fit in the slot and not over-lap, and not have a gap.
Then I installed the o-ring over that, widest diameter on top (o-ring has "sort" of a square cross-sceetion).
On the heating problem, I don't have any ideas other than as it starts to get tight, rotate it back and forth a little bit and then look for wear marks (as someone above suggested). Coat with a little Machinist's Blueing might help find the tight spot. Once you know what's going on, you'll be better able to determine what to do about it.
I don't recommend spraying the distributor with CO2, or cold water, or packing ice around it. It might work, or you might break something due to thermal shock.
Good luck !
Lead Driver
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 9,893
Likes: 12
From: Ohio
Try sanding it more? Not that you want it flopping around, but it should turn when warm. When clamped down, it won't wobble anyway.
I've never screwed with the seals and never had one leak(or noticed it enough to do anything about it).
I've never screwed with the seals and never had one leak(or noticed it enough to do anything about it).
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