57 years to the month and 98,000 miles later the cab is free of the chassis today!! Not bad for two 70+ retirees.

Questions: How are the heater vent doors removed? They look like they were assembled outside the cab then the assemble may have been pressed in?

Are the spin on filter adapters worth the price?

 

I've wondered the same about the heater. Not sure what the filter adapter cost these days, but mine was worth every penny years ago. It's a pain trying to keep the old canister gasket in place and seated correctly.

 

If you are talking about the fresh air door in each kick panel they pivot on two pins one of the two pins (can't remember which) is spring active. Reach in with needle nose pliers and pull it out of the hole it rests in then swing the door back to release the other pin from its hole. Clear as mud right? The leather on mine was very dry, and I damaged one. Because Numberdummy and I we were unable find any NOS, I just re-oiled mine and put them back. The leather is sandwiched between two pieces of tin to make the door. I suppose the rivets could be removed and new leather installed.
Good luck!

 

I drilled out rivets and used 2 pieces of the foam rubber used to line bottom of toolboxes with. Had metal powder coated satin black along with vent covers.Cut the rubber 3/8 of inch larger than metal then screwed plates back together with small black screws and locknuts. Seals tight, no leaks, opens easily

 

Thanks again guys! It was a snap. Top pin was the retract. With that out of the way i had time to cut down a dead oak tree.
Now to get the cab and doors loaded in my trailer and off to the master blaster!
That original April Green paint sure looked good. I can just imagine how it looked on the show room floor. Cleaning out the pockets of the cab I found an old rusted 19/32 open end wrench and a spiral sea shell. My uncle used to carry a spare can of oil in each side.