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Old Feb 19, 2012 | 08:16 PM
  #16  
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I went out started the truck it fired right up, drove it around, mileage was normal around 18ish according to the "on board computer" It accelerates and drives normal. Maybe a slight loss of power around 60 -65ish. A slight whistlie howl or howlie whistle that comes and goes from 30 to 45ish, not constant very intermittent. It was there before the no start.

We went from a sporadic no start where i would go out and knock on the black fuse box under the hood, jump in and it would fire right up or move the stick shift and start it in nuetral.

To a complete no start

Back to starting up.

Why do I have the feeling an oil change would make a difference?

I always thought the no start thing was electrical. I had the window, radio, map light thing, then the rear back up sensor shut off. Then I found a real bad ground wire. There could be more. Anyone know how many and where most of the ground wires are? I will check in the bible.

This is to all you mechanics out there, I know how hard your job is, i did not need it pointed out to me. It must be compounded on here where you don't have the vehicle in front of you. Yet you continue to help all those in need on here.

Bravo to you, sincerely
 
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Old Feb 19, 2012 | 08:24 PM
  #17  
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The 2 main grounds are by the A/C Pump and the other by the Power steering pump on the frame comes off each battery

There is also a ground strap from the Frame to the Cab under passenger side door area

also seams like there one by the A/C condenser/fan area that goes from Firewall to the back of the Moter area

shure is staRTing to sounding electrical
 
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Old Feb 19, 2012 | 09:00 PM
  #18  
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I am not a mechanic by any stretch, but I am perceptive and analytical by nature, and I have always thought this to be electrical. just an inkling.
You only have to teach me something once.

I found the ground strap under the passenger side door, damn near disintegrated when I tugged on it. Replaced it with a short battery terminal wire with eyelets on each end. I will have to look for the ac condenser area one, and double check the two from the batteries.
Can i check my altenators (my truck has two)with a hand held innova metre? If so how do you do that? Or I suppose it would be just as easy to go to the auto parts store, there readers any good?
 
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Old Feb 19, 2012 | 09:12 PM
  #19  
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Yes you can check an alternator with a DVM but a Bench test is the Best

shure cant hurt to try with a DVM

Have you checked the Wire harness to the IPR make shure its not Burned up its right around the exhaust pipes by the turbo and sometimes gets cooked

I think at a minimum here you will need a SGII to rule stuff out

although an AE= auto ingenuity would be the best scan tool
 
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Old Feb 19, 2012 | 09:21 PM
  #20  
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Hey thanks.
Its hard to find the SGll, i have been holding off trying to research the best one. I will look into the AE autoingenuity.

I do want to have guages installed as well, any types better than others and which ones do i need. Or does the ae eliminate that need or is that strictly for diagnosing.?

What is a bench test? Does that mean it has to come out of the truck to test it? Sorry if that sounds stupid, but i always thought the only stupid question was the one not asked.
 
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Old Feb 19, 2012 | 09:30 PM
  #21  
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Originally Posted by jerkypants
I do want to have guages installed as well, any types better than others and which ones do i need. Or does the ae eliminate that need or is that strictly for diagnosing.?.
AE goes on your computer so most folks dont drag that around with them but its the best Diagnostic tool for an owner

they get a Digital gauge Like SGII or Edge to keep in the truck for gauges sometimes you can see the problem with just a gauge



Originally Posted by jerkypants
What is a bench test? Does that mean it has to come out of the truck to test it? Sorry if that sounds stupid, but i always thought the only stupid question was the one not asked.

Yes a Bench test means pulling the alternator out of the truck to test at an auto parts store
 
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Old Feb 19, 2012 | 09:32 PM
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you can get a SGII at autozone or from the Manufacture

www.scangauge.com
or here^^^^^^^

Make shure you get SGII not the SG E series
 
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Old Feb 20, 2012 | 08:19 PM
  #23  
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By the by, I have two altenators, does that mean both have to come out?
yes...it does...doesn't it. Boy I sure picked a beaut!

Thanks Blade35
 
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Old Feb 20, 2012 | 08:50 PM
  #24  
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Originally Posted by jerkypants
By the by, I have two altenators, does that mean both have to come out?
yes...it does...doesn't it. Boy I sure picked a beaut!

Thanks Blade35

Has the Battery light been coming on while you have been driving even since the corroded ground cable was replaced????

That battery light on the Gauge cluster seems to be right on the Money if its been coming on frequently/staying on theres a problem with the charging system you could say that light is an Idiot light with a PHD Iv found it to be very accurite

If it hasnt been coming on there may not be an issue with charging system

I would try to check Alternators with a DVM to see if you catch something

But yes to bench test both they need to be pulled
 
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