My poor truck is surging after its warmed up too but not at idle only if I just barely start to give it some gas. like if I'm trying to take off and I ease the pedal down it starts reving like I'm pumping the pedal even though I'm not. the only way I can get it moving is to go ahead and mash the pedal down where it will rev almost to 3k rpm then ease out the clutch I know thats not good for it. (only had to do that 3 or 4 times trying to limp it home)

So this afternoon I got it warmed up, opened the hood and was moving the throttle by hand to see if I could notice anything and one of those solenoids over by the battery was just clicking away after I let the throttle go.. I could bring it up and duplicate the surging but when I'd release the throttle the solenoid that looks like its got the line from the top of the egr valve coming out of it clicks about 5 or 6 times real fast.
I do know that the egr doesn't have vacuum at idle but I don't know if it does when not at idle. Also fairly sure I haven't got any vacuum leaks.

I reckon its got to be a sensor somewhere because it only does it after its up to operating temps.. haven't run any code readers on it because I don't have one .. and I'm just trying to get it running right so I can sell it before the middle of march.

Any help would be appreciated.. and if anyone lives near roanoke va that knows how to fix it and wants to buy it lemme know lol =)

 

All you need is a testlight or voltmeter to get the codes out of it. That's what I would do first.

 

Check TPS voltage as well. Has anyone messed with the idle screw, it is not to be touched.

Fuel Injection Technical Library for lots of good resources.

 

Thanks for the info, gonna have to get the old test probe out next nice day and see what it can tell me.

Archion I'm sure the idle screw hasn't been messed with since I've had the truck.. I've got a strong suspicion that its a sensor somewhere... hope its a cheap and easy to replace one =)

Also before I get started.. since the problem only happens when the truck is at temp I'm thinking I should get it up to temp before trying to pull codes.. is that correct?

 

Go to that link in the other poster's thread, and it will show you how to pull the codes and the memory codes. As long as you do not disconnect or run the battery way down, any codes you had will be in memory, and you can pull them out. Once you do a little work to it, and want to know if you fixed it, you can pull the battery cable for 30 seconds, and that will clear all the codes and you can start over and see what you have. Pulling battery power off the computer will also reset some of the parameters inside. The computer "learns" and adjusts itself to sensors that are a little bit off. Once you pull the the battery cable, it will take a few days of running for it to "re-learn" the engine and it's sensors.

 

Grab a piece of vacuum hose, and hook it up from the map sensor to the intake. I had the same kind of issues and it ended up being that the map vacuum line (plastic part that runs from front to back of engine under intake plenum) was sitting on the egr tube under the upper intake where I couldn't see it, and was causing all kinds of weird things to happen including idling and surging problems.

 

It was also making my egr solenoid click like crazy when revved too

 

I haven't had any time to work on the truck lately between work and weather so I haven't been on here either.. sorry I've not replied to anything.

I decided to get a code reader

Here is what it said

23 Throttle Position Sensor signal out of range
31 EGR valve control sensor fault
67 Neutral Pressure Switch circuit failure

Memory
31 EGR valve control sensor fault
63 Throttle Position Circuit fault, Below minimum voltage

So.. replace Throttle Position sensor?
Which part is the egr valve control sensor? is it the bit that tells the computer how far open the valve is? or is it the bit over by the charcoal canister that controls the vacuum solenoid?

dakota-boy, I am going to do that sounds like the same problem.. just the sort of weird crap that would happen to me lol

 

Before you go throwing parts at it, you'll still want to use the above link and go through the procedures to test the components. And if you do need to replace sensors, take it from my experience. Buy Motorcraft. I chased a bad aftermarket TPS for a few months, it ended up being out of spec/range.

 

If the TPS code is the first one you get, I would concentrate on it first. It's very probable that the TPS is bad, but it could be a bad connection also or a wire problem. If you do put a TPS sensor on it, some of them have to be adjusted(they are slotted) so you are going to have to get a meter anyway to set it, so you might as well get some practice and put the meter on the old one first.