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I have a 2003 6.0 excursion Well like the title says I have a power balance graph the issue I'm having is when it's cold or cool outside it likes to buck when in overdrive. But never shows itself when over 50 outside and only does it until it reaches full operating temp. So I put the vcm on it and here is a picture of the graph never going above 2000rpms.
Is there any way this could be a FICM problem? Because it has indicated different injectors each time I hook it up. ANY input would be appreciated. Thanks
You could give Ed a PM or a call and talk to him about your problem he is a FICM wizz. Have you had any recent work done at all? Also do you have FICM volts yet and verified batteries are good?
I read that like 6,3 are pretty bad 6 being really bad. 1,4 look to be getting lazy but maybe not dead yet. I doubt your problem has to do with the ficm. But you have a injector or two on the outs. What codes are you having?
I read that like 6,3 are pretty bad 6 being really bad. 1,4 look to be getting lazy but maybe not dead yet. I doubt your problem has to do with the ficm. But you have a injector or two on the outs. What codes are you having?
That's the strange part only code I'm getting is an egr flow code. No other codes at all 1and 4 are brand new injectors number 6 afaik is an original. I guess I should go ahead and replace that one
I ran the graph after full operating temp and noe of the injectors fell below -25 or so on the graph
this could be injector stiction that is causing it when cold, try going to 5w 40 full synthetic. but i agree that contribution balance is indicating what unreal is saying so +1 on that, also do you have the latest calibration strategy? that will help with cold starts.
I believe I was told when I posted picture of latest PCM flash I do have most current
I took for a spin this morning ect and eot were around 55* and the graph never went below -40 but was all of them very sporatic. If this is just stiction should i use this rev x product i read about i tried hot shot secret before and didnt seem to help any
Last edited by j4henry; Feb 17, 2012 at 09:40 AM.
Reason: did another run after sitting all night
Your next step is to check the injector harness, pull each plug and reseat making sure you hear the click, I recommend removing the harness and going over it in detail looking for any chafing. I had the same buck and it was the harness.
Your next step is to check the injector harness, pull each plug and reseat making sure you hear the click, I recommend removing the harness and going over it in detail looking for any chafing. I had the same buck and it was the harness.
Thanks I'll check those when I pull my intake and hot tank it to remove all carbon built up in there
See that icon on the right side? Looks like an injector with a # sign next to it. Click on that, put it in reverse with your foot on the brake and watch the graph. What do you see now? Bring RPM up to about 1200 and what do you see? Do this after it sat over night and monitor what injectors start out bad. What ones get better as it warms up and how long does it take to smooth out? If you have any that are real low you will be able to turn them off individually on the top of the screen to see what difference they make. When you turn off the injector compensation(that symbol on the right) each injector number will appear in a box. Click on each box to turn that injector off.
You cant get accurate contribution stats without the compensation turned off. FYI
You can also control RPM with the IDS, but I am not getting into all that.