Okay gang, I know one of you can help me with this issue:

I recently had to replace the steel brake line from the Hydraulic Valve Assembly at the very front of my Bronco all the way back to the frame rail where the line converts to rubber. The short version is that 2 weeks ago my ABS light started coming on, a few days later the "Brake" Light cam on and my pedal went to the floor. Crawl underneath, rusted line has a hole, fluid everywhere. No problem, got new line, ran it, bled the system (got some really nice looking brake fluid thanks to the hole in the line), brakes are fine..........almost. The ABS light is still coming on, I pulled the battery cable to reset everything, I re-bled hte system, still there. Could the loss of rear fluid (or contamination) have screwed up the ABS? If anyone can help, I would gretaly appreciate it!!!!

Rich

95 Bronco, 351, auto, XLT Sport, 130k

 

Have you tried cleaning the speed sensor in the top of the rear diff. housing? Some people have had similar problems and it happens (from what I understand) because the sensor is too filthy to get a proper reading from the indicator ring inside the diff. housing. The ABS computer notes this and turns on the idiot light. Its a place to start. Someone can tell you how to troubleshoot the ABS computer like you would the main computer if that doesn't fix the prob.

 

Question, do you still have your anti lock brakes or do thay go away when the light comes on? I lose my abs brakes when the light come on and was wondering if we might have similar problems, I havnt been able to remedy mine yet gotta get it plugged in im afraid.

 

Great question, I wondered the same thing earlier. I went out on my road (gravel) got up to 50 and nailed the brakes, no ABS. So the light is on and the ABS is off. Tomorrow I plan on checking the speed sensor and whatever other suggestions I get.

Rich

 

Did you bleed the RABS valve?

 

The $12 Haynes manual tells how to pull the codes from the ABS computer, much like pulling them from the engine computer. It only takes a paperclip and the code list, which is also in there.

 

Check the wires from the speed sensor by the driver side rear wheel may be twisted and one of the wires may be broke under the insulation lightly hold one wire in one hand same wire in other hand and pull a little if it stretches a bit you know you have a broken wire had it happen to mine finally traced it to the wires going to the speed sensor. Butt spliced broken wire all fixed.

 

depending on the mileage on your Bronco, I would bet the RABS valve may be bad......

I just changed mine out and the ABS light shut off with no codes present....

I also took the time to install a new Master Cyl, rear hydraulic cyls, drums, shoes and pads for the front....everything works great now and the pedal feels nice and firm, the truck stops on a dime with no pulling to one side...

I would try to clean the bad boy up and reset the computer to erase the code.....then see if the code disappears....if not R and R is in order.

 

Capone
Rich's 4WABS is totally different from your RABS-II.

 

Okay gang, I finally got a chance to play with my ABS. I open the Haynes manual and decided I wanted to throw it in my firepit. The wonderful Haynes manual says the test plug is located next to the ECU. The ECU is at the front of the truck under the radiator/washer fluid tank. The big red plug is at the rear of the engine compartment. Strike 1 Haynes. Next it says to jumper "B" and "E". Nothing on that red plug is marked with either of those letters. I don't know what to jumper! Stike 2 Haynes. It says to remove the jumper after 5 seconds, then talks about how to read the codes, then says to shut off the ignition and remove the jumper! Do I remove it after 5 seconds or after I turn off the ignition. Strike 3 Haynes. I'm on Ebay looking for the Ford Service CD right now. Until then, can anyone help me?????????

Thank you all for your posts!

Rich

 

Yeah, I've got 3 years of CDs here (check the classifieds) and the '95 Bronco EVTM. If you look into the connector with the 2 terminals on top, they're lettered from L to R, top to bottom; B is the only one on top (Bk ground) and E is the right-most on the bottom (W/LB diagnostic trigger). Here's what the CD says:

Light Flash Technique

1. Note: If 12V test light is not available, the amber ABS warning light also flashes during this test.

Locate test connector in the engine compartment and install 12V test light between Pins C and E.

2. With the ignition off, jumper Pin E to B.

3. Turn key to RUN position.

4. Remove jumper between Pins E and B after 5 seconds.

5. Count light flashes of test light or amber ABS warning light.

I can't attach a picture, but if you e-mail or PM me with your e-mail address, I can send you a pic of all the connectors and one of the wiring diagram for the system.

 

Steve83, I had the same problem with the Haynes manual. If you can send a picture to me from your CD maybe I can troubleshoot my problem with the ABS light staying on. Please send it to kuduhunter(No Email Addresses In Posts!)

 

All right, I think I finally got the codes out of the ABS system. I got a flash, a 2-3 second pause, and 7 flashes. I presume that I am reading this correctly as a code 17. I waited about 30 seconds and didn't get any other codes. My questions are: is 30 seconds long enough to wait for a second code, or does it take longer? My other question is: All but one of the circuits to test for code 17 appear to be dealing with power coming into the ABS system. Any suggestions as to what a code 17 usually is?

As usual any help is appreciated.

 

double

 

The ABS code format should be similar to the EEC Code format: ~2 sec between digits; ~3 sec between codes.

Have you checked all the circuits that supply power to the system?