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Ok don't beat me up too bad. I want to get my truck looking better this year. After I rewire and go to 12 volt this spring I want to do the body work and paint. I've read over and over about the rustoleum jobs and the rollers. I know a "real" paint job will cost over $1K or more. I know about getting paint from Tractor supply, etc, etc etc. I do not have a large compressor and its been 20 years since I've used my spray gun, but what about a Wagner power painter? Electric, no compressor,,, can they be used with some kind of cheap auto paint? Just wondering?? Anybody ever tried this?
Get yourself an inexpensive gravity feed gun (usually around a hundred bucks) and a small compressor and spray away. I would venture to guess a power painter would leave a lot of orange peel (may be wrong) but I also would think it would turn out better than a roller. If you already have one try it on something, just remember to try it with the paint you intend to use and on something metal. Unfortunitely cheap and auto paint don't go together..... I have been looking at the tractor paint from tractor supply that uses hardner, down side is limited colors. I have sprayed some where the paint cost well over 200 dollars a gallon not including hardner, thinner and clear...... I can remember buying a gallon of Dupont Centuri for less than 50 bucks with hardner, crazy. I just don't know if my truck (or pieces) are worthy of spending the extra dollars yet. Whatever you decide the final paint is only as good as the body work underneath.
Id do yourself a favor and get an hvlp spray gun for your air compressor. This one is 15 bucks and I used it to paint my friends cutlass. Worked great and since you have a compressor it will be a cheaper route than messing with a electric.
I second the HVLP spray gun from Harbor Freight. Make sure the compressor can handle it or use a general purpose spray gun which requires less pressure/air flow. I have also had great luck with Valspar Tractor Restoration Paint from Tractor Supply. It goes on very glossy but mellows out to a more satin finish. I really like more satin finishes, just looks better on these old trucks (IMHO). Heck, clear coat wasn't around then. It does take about 20 days to really cure but it is forgiving. Make sure you add their harder to it. Will you get a top dollar paint job out of the setup, no, but it can look fine for a daily driver. Buff it out and wax it. I would stay away from the paint roll jobs just cuz of the sanding and labor involved.
My buddy just spent $3000 on a nice paint job and scratched his paint reinstalling his division bars. I felt bad for him. I personally want trucks that I can drive for daily use and I find show paint jobs don't work for me. Good luck and have fun!
Thanks everyone. I have the largest 110Volt compressor Sears sold 20yrs ago and it still works fine. I've sprayed primer with it a few times but no other paint. Maybe I'll try the HF spray gun and some Tractor paint. I don't want / can't afford a show winner just want something that looks ok. Just dreaming right now, guess I have cabin fever.
I have a set of Harbor Freight hvlp spray guns and a Craftsman 110v air compressor. I have been teaching myself how to do the body work on my truck, link here; https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/9...build-log.html
I have also been reading on this site; SPI User Forums
I have been using their primer, and will be using their bed-liner also. These are good, quality products from an excellent local company (they also ship nationwide); Home
I would suggest reading up on as much material as you can and make informed decisions based on your needs. I am by no means a professional body man, but rather am doing it out of the necessity to save the money that I don't have. Good luck on your project.
I used the hot rod flatz system from TCP Global - Quality & Service Since 1974 to paint my truck. It was about $150 a gal If i remember right. I also used there hvlp gun kit. I was really happy with the results. my only problem was my compressor, I had a 20 gal. 110v that was only rated at 7cfm and it just couldn't keep up. The gun called for 6 cfm but by the time I had all the filters and dryers inline it really cut my air down too low. I now have a 60 gal. 5hp compressor that is rated at 16 cfm and it made a world of difference in how the paint atomizes and flows with the same guns.
I've used Rustoleum industrial enamel on a tractor that sits outside on a full time basis. I sprayed with an HVLP gun. That stuff is very forgiving and goes on pretty well. If you want to improve the appearance of your truck, and protect it until you decide to do something else, it'd be a pretty good way to go. If your old spray gun is in good shape, give it a try on something else like your wheel-barrow or an old box. Those old high pressure guns did a nice job...they're just not environmentally correct by today's standards.
Also note, that if you need to, call a local rental yard...they would probably have a compressor that you can rent for the day that you want to spray the whole truck. Use your small setup for the body work and the occasional spray of primer.
If you have any rust that you're going to cover up, consider using a rust prep first. There are plenty of phosphoric acid washes that will help to treat the rust before you cover it up with rustoleum.
You can always chain a second compressor to yours to get enough air. Contractor style (nail gun) compressors are very available used for a lower price than renting one, check Craig's list or your local pawn shops. Simply Tee the outputs together. Keep the hose between the compressor and gun as short as possible, you can lose a lot of volume in a long hose. NEVER use one of the spiral "self retracting" hoses or smaller than 3/8" inside.
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