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Old Aug 12, 2012 | 07:08 PM
  #16  
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bread320i
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I thought he was talking about a puller to remove the axle. Im afraid to wack the center to hard and risk having the axle break or fail.

I 3 jaw puller wont grab on the axle, but the tool from Mac's Im unsure how it works?
 
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Old Aug 12, 2012 | 07:26 PM
  #17  
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newold46
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The mac's puller is 4 pieces. The ring comes off, the puller is then in 2 halves. Wrap the halves around the groove in the axle, slide the ring back around. Then get the wrench (or whatever) and turn the center screw (bolt) while holding the axle from turning. I used an old hammer handle or something. Every once in a while, if needed, whack the end of the screw (bolt) with a mallet to help work some of the rust out and then use the wrench until it comes off. There is an adapter to fit over the threads on the end of the axle shaft so you won't damage those while pulling and/or whacking. Let me see if I posted those pictures somewhere...
 
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Old Aug 12, 2012 | 07:33 PM
  #18  
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Im tring to remove the axle from a 1.5 ton truck. The axle slides out after removing 8 nuts. Then the hub slides off. Im having a hard time getting the axle to come loose.
 
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Old Aug 12, 2012 | 07:36 PM
  #19  
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My mistake. Sometimes I should really learn to read. Mine was about a 1/2 ton.
 
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Old Aug 12, 2012 | 07:47 PM
  #20  
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You had me thinking there was a magic tool besides a hammer.
 
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Old Aug 12, 2012 | 09:49 PM
  #21  
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I use a short-coupled 3 jaw puller to pull the drums. Mine is part of a Snap-On set but there are lots of good units available for a reasonable price. I also know of some who have used a scissors/bearing puller/knife/whatever the heck you might want to call it with good results although they are a pain in the butt to rig up.

When I pull the drums off my units, I also reinstall the nut part way down with the tip of the axle threads just clearing it. That way I can chase the threads just in case they get distorted during the process. It's also a good idea to use a shaft protector (piece of flat steel will suffice) on the end of the threads for added insurance. If you have to tap on the end, use a brass hammer or brass drift with steel hammer; that will help spare those precious axles.
 
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Old Aug 16, 2012 | 04:31 PM
  #22  
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Originally Posted by schoo
got my brake drums off yesterday after 3 weeks of pb blaster one bottle of propane, and hundreds of wacks with 3# hammer, now parts
this is a 1 1/2 ton so it has screws(bolts)counter sunk to hold drums to axle, where to get some any ideas. tried joblot, local napa..help
roy
Schoo

8N Ford Tractor has the same bolts your talking about to hold the Drums to the Axle.

There are plenty of Ford Tractor Parts available.
 
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Old Aug 16, 2012 | 05:42 PM
  #23  
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From: placer county usa?
thanks five star was thinking that was lost in space
when you use a impact screw driver on the screws be careful to ck the sides of the screws because they get deformed from impact
well make dents into the drum so mine were not rusted on but dented into the sides of the drum
make sense??
going to tractor
roy
 
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Old Aug 16, 2012 | 07:42 PM
  #24  
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When I go to take them off I first gently tighten them first with the impact, then try to remove them. If they are still stuborn repeat the same step until they give way.

The impact loosens the rust build up get tool. anyway good luck, by the way there are plenty of the 8N 9N Tractor parts that fit these old Fords.

When you put your new shoes on make sure you chamfer them first, in other words file the ends so there beveled down.

The best linnings I find are the woven type that you have to rivet on, soft shoe and they will stop you, and thats what you want.
 
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