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Rear Drum Brakes, Help

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Old Jun 10, 2006 | 10:31 AM
  #1  
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Rear Drum Brakes, Help

A couple of things, first I am having problems even getting the drums off! I have back the adjustment off , and they still are not wanting to free up!

Next how do you know the proper adjustment when you are done and trying to adjust your rear brakes!

Thanks in advance for all the help!
 
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Old Jun 10, 2006 | 11:45 AM
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Get a BIG hammer--I whacked on mine with a 22 oz. framing hammer quite a bit, and no joy (big swings, too). Then I got out the 4 lb. engineer's hammer, and one quick blow knocked 'em right off.

The rear shoes, installed properly, are self-adjusting. However, you definitely want to get them close first. I forget what the procedure would be, but I'd tighten the star wheel just until I could turn the drum with slight dragging. Then it should adjust once you drive it. I made the mistake of leaving them wide open, and I could tell my truck was only stopping on the front brakes.

Jason
 
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Old Jun 10, 2006 | 02:52 PM
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I would go light on the big hammer, as you can split one of the drums. Try some PB Blaster at the point where the axle hub comes through the drum . had a chevy that was always a bugger to get drums off. as jason said, adjust the star wheel till you can haer the shoes rub the drum is a good start. the rear breaks are self adjusting as you apply the breaks when backing up.
 
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Old Jun 11, 2006 | 07:32 AM
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Same problem getting mine off. There was a ridge of rust around the inside of the drum hanging up on the shoes. It took some hits and persuading but finally came off. Make sure to clean that edge up or have them turned.
 
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Old Jun 20, 2006 | 11:50 AM
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Your profile says you own an F250. If that's the truck you're doing the brakes on, no matter how hard you beat it that drum wont come off until you pull the axle shaft and remove the lock nut and outer bearings, then slide the hub and drum off the spindle. The hub and drum assembly is heavy, be prepared! If necessary, you should be able to seperate the drum from the hub by knocking the studs out.
 
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Old Jun 20, 2006 | 12:42 PM
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Assuming he posted in the correct forum, his truck does not have a Dana 60. It has a sterling 10.25" axle, and the axle shafts do not have to come out to get the drums off. They come off just like a 8.8" axle would.

Secondly, yes, technically the brakes are self-adjusting. However, they are right next to useless. You absolutely have to adjust them by hand until the shoes drag lightly all around the drum. There is no magic to the self-adjusters, they can't tell when the brakes need adjusting or when they are over-adjusted. They work by just clicking the star wheel out when you back up and come to a complete stop.
 
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Old Jun 20, 2006 | 02:08 PM
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My '96 F250 has the Sterling axle and it is full floating. I know this because I tried to beat my brake drums off too. I ended up calling a Ford service dept. They set me straight. Maybe Rc3's truck is a light duty with semi floating rear like my '83 had, but I don't think the Sterling was ever semi-floating. Any other F250 owners know about this?
 
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Old Jun 20, 2006 | 03:34 PM
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I dont understand full floating versus semi floating...

semi has to bear the weight, but full floating does not?

how could it not, the frame must attach to the axel??
 
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Old Jun 20, 2006 | 03:35 PM
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The sterling semi-floater did exist. The drums also pop right off.

Are you saying that you have a sterling 10.25" axle and you couldn't get the drums off without pulling the axles?
 
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Old Jun 20, 2006 | 03:46 PM
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Mine is an F 250, ended up it has the full floater axle, and I had to pull the axles to get to the brakes, my truck is a 1993, is this normal!
 
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Old Jun 20, 2006 | 04:03 PM
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On a full floating axle the axle shafts do not carry the weight. The wheel bearings are between the hub and the spindle with the shaft passing through the spindle and bolting to the outboard end of the hub. Its that big cylinder that sticks out of the hub. A semi floating axle doesn't have those stcking out. On a semi floater the axle shafts carry the weight. The out board ends of the axle shafts ride on the wheel bearings. With a semi floater if you break the axle shaft, the wheels can fall off, not so with a full floater, hence its use in heavy duty applications.
Yes, I couldn't get the drums off my Sterling axle without removing the axle shafts, bearings,etc. My F250 is a '96 HD 4X4. At some point Ford changed to the 10.5" Sterling, I do not know which is on my truck.
 
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Old Jun 20, 2006 | 05:32 PM
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Ok, now I'm all confused. I have done brakes on a sterling 10.25" axle before, and I did not have to remove the axles. The drums slid right off, over the hub.
 
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Old Jun 20, 2006 | 06:25 PM
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I'm not confused. I have a '93 F250HD 4x2, and the rear axle is the Ford/Sterling 10.25" full floater. I got everything apart just fine with a big hammer and without pulling the axle shafts. Axle code on the door is 35 for all those wondering, and GAWR on the rear is 6084 lbs. And, yes, it does have the hubs that stick out the side about 6".

Jason
 
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Old Jun 20, 2006 | 10:32 PM
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One of the off road magazines, maybe 4 Wheeler did a great article on Ford Sterling axles some time last year. It gave a full run-down of what axles were in each different truck over the years. If somebody finds it we coould get this thing straightened out.
 
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Old Jun 20, 2006 | 10:52 PM
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well

I know for a fact that I had to pull the axles, I had to go and rent the hub kit also to remove the nut and then the whole thing came off with the bearings and an inner seal, there was no way mine was coming off without the axles out , & it slid right off when the axles were pulled and the inner nut was off! 93 and that is how it worked!
 
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