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operation "rust be gone"

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Old Feb 10, 2012 | 03:13 PM
  #1  
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tjc transport
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i ain't rite
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operation "rust be gone"

phase one:
came off a 2000 F-350. super clean, 3 small scratches in the paint, no visible rust, or rot.
came with bed liner, no tailgate or lights. $1500

best part is, it is the same color as the truck.
 
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Old Feb 10, 2012 | 04:13 PM
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It is strange how much prices vary from area to area. I just seen a 2011 brand new long bed take off that included bed, tailgate, lights and bumper for $1300 on Craigslist this morning.
 
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Old Feb 10, 2012 | 04:20 PM
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Color match w/ factory paint is worth it. Looks good.
 
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Old Feb 10, 2012 | 05:10 PM
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tjc transport
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long bed with lights, gate. and liner here is $500 10 years old or new takeoff.
shortbeds are going for $3000 to $6000.
 
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Old Feb 10, 2012 | 05:11 PM
  #5  
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if it don't snow tonight i am going to flip it over to inspect, clean and paint the bottom.
 
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Old Feb 10, 2012 | 05:25 PM
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I wonder how the bed supports look? My bed is clean but my supports are starting to go to crap, I may have to address that at some point too.
 
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Old Feb 10, 2012 | 05:48 PM
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that is why i want to flip it. the floor of the bed is spotless under the liner, with a slight bit of paint scuff and a fine dusting almost like talc powder.

even if the supports are bad, we have enough steel laying at the body shop to repair it. the bed on the truck has decent supports, but the previous owner was a landscaper that never cleaned under the liner. there was 2+ inches of crap under it and the floor of the bed rotted away. the liner is the only thing holding anything in the bed.
 
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Old Feb 10, 2012 | 10:42 PM
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You must be living rite! Congrats!
 
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Old Feb 11, 2012 | 09:31 AM
  #9  
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even a retarded monkey can find the fig tree every now and then.
 
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Old Feb 11, 2012 | 02:50 PM
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On the subject of rust, I started removing the little rubber plugs on the body and doors, and squirting engine oil inside. hopefully is finds its way deep inside and prevents rust from starting along the bottom of the body panels.

I have yet to think of a method for around the wheels though.... I tried but i don't know how much oil is sitting on top of the hump.
 
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Old Feb 11, 2012 | 04:18 PM
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my truck is clean all over except them junk bed supports, im gonna have to fix them or replace them but i have a spray in bedliner and i was told that when i weld on the new supports it will melt the liner in spots? Any one hear of this
 
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Old Feb 11, 2012 | 04:20 PM
  #12  
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Spray LPS3 in the bottom of the doors and treat all exposed metal with it for prevention.
Also, spray in the bottom of tailgate.
 
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Old Feb 11, 2012 | 04:35 PM
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Dont forget inside the rockers and cab corners. It is a boxed area and it holds all kind of crap to rot them out.

I will get into detail later how to NEVER have rust wheel wells
 
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Old Feb 12, 2012 | 12:28 PM
  #14  
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Originally Posted by Diesel_Brad
Dont forget inside the rockers and cab corners. It is a boxed area and it holds all kind of crap to rot them out.

I will get into detail later how to NEVER have rust wheel wells

I am very interested to hear this !!!
 
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Old Feb 12, 2012 | 01:42 PM
  #15  
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I use a mixture of axle grease and used motor oil inside the doors, pop the door panel off and apply up to the bar inside the door. Make sure the oil gets into the bottom door seam. The same with the rockers and cab corners, just plunger it in there with a coat hanger with a rag on the end. The tailgate I squirt either WD40 or used oil in the weep holes. Also used oil over rear fender wells. I try to soak that foam strip that is in there. It will seep for a couple days so watch where you park. Thought about installing a zerk fitting in the inside fender well so you could pump that inclosed strip under the foam with grease. Just pack it to keep the moisture out of that cavity, but so far the oil and grease has my 2004 rust free. Not sure what LPS3 is, maybe that would work better.
 
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