Yes Baro sets the stage for EBP & MAP since there all pressure readings

at KOEO those being within 0.2 psi of BARO is great

so Boost reading is 0 even at a WOT Run?? If so program for VGT

VGT should be high number at Idel low number at WOT

And have you checked the CAC Boots and clamps make shure there is no leak

 

Yes boost is at or near zero at idle and at WOT and everywhere in between. Got another code for no boost detected. Took my intake stuff off all the way to the turbo and checked the blades for play and binds. It does seem to bind a little at one point during the rotation but no play. Should the blades spin free with consistent small resistance? I will program for VGT and check that. CAC boots are fine. I took them off to check. Oily but intact.

 

It is not the blades that stick on the turbo. It is the inlet guide vane system that directs the exhaust gases onto the turbine blades. The turbo must be disassembled to get a good look at the vanes.

 

What are you using to see Boost PSI with?????

Im thinking if your getting 0 psi boost that maybe that turbine wheel is Binding Hard to Hard infact you might need a new turbo or compleate rebuild

If it were just a Case of stuck veins I would think you would see some boost psi or Even sometimes the case is over boost just depends the position the veins are stuck in

Have you checked the exhaust uppipes for Leaks??????

 

i have a 2006 6.0 and i had the exact same thing happen to my truck last week.... would be pushing the accelerater would hear the turbo spool up but the truck would just die out on me.... i went with a power issue and not a fuel issue because when i would push the lock button on my keyless entry the sound of the horn was very weak.... the truck would start no problem and would rev up fine in the beginning but after about 5-10 minutes of driving would notice no power with the push of the accelerater would have it to the floor and there would be no feed back from the engine.... turbo would spool up but engine wouldnt get over 2500-3000 rpms and would slowly die off till truck was dead.... ended up replacing the alternator now the truck works like a champ.... hope this helps

 

Thanks for the suggestion re: power. I did look into that, too. Battery, FICM, everything is good. I am looking for anything other than turbo rebuild / replace. My truck never dies, either. Just low power all the time.

The VGT actuator is my last remaining hope. Programmed my SGII for VGT duty cycle so we shall see..

 

I'm using my ScangaugeII to check boost. The boost never goes above 2 or 3 psi and sometimes goes negative. No matter the accelerator position. I did check my exhaust up pipes and found no obvious leaks. There is a little soot at the manifold to head connection but only at one cylinder. Not enough to be concerned about. If I change the gauge to se MAP it just stays around barometric pressure. It is reading something so I believe the gauge / sensor is reporting.

 

Is there a description of the turbo removal procedure somewhere I can use for reference?

 

https://www.ford-trucks.com/ford-man...%20Removal.pdf


https://www.ford-trucks.com/ford-man...er%20Guide.pdf

https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...ml#post9449262

read these things

 

Great stuff. Just what I was looking for. Thanks so mmuch!

 

Well the turbocharger is sitting on my bench. Now the real fun starts. Didn't see anything that I could latch onto as a cause of my troubles so far. I'll disassemble the turbo to see what's what with that. No signs of dirt or anything foreign. Drain tube looks clean. No signs of leaks on any boots or exhaust pipes / connections. No signs of bearing wear or seal leaks.

Man I hope I didn't just spend my time just getting intimate with this engine.... although I do feel closer to it now

While underneith the truck I found that my transmission dip stick tube is rusted through in a couple places. I also noticed that if I need to remove my exhaust manifolds it will involve torches and cutting, new studs, etc... That just doesn't seem right! What kind of recylcled steel did Ford use in 04? Now I think I need to change my tranny fluid and filter (after I change my tube). I'm beginning to feel like I'm working on a 150 year old house.

With 80k miles, is there anything I should consider doing just because the turbo is out?

 

Finally got a chance to split the turbo. Just the exhaust side. The unison ring seems to be stuck hard in the vanes open position. I am going to clean the turbo as per the instructions I have seen and reassemble using anti-sieze on all the surfaces.

No noticable wear on the hole that contacts the actuator lever and the vane slots seem fine. Just a stuck unison ring. Had a heck of a time even getting it off the housing. No play at all in the shaft bearings and no sign of any oil seal leaking. Fans spin free.

Actuator lever moves easily

Two questions:
1) Is there any way to test the VGT actuator without a datalogger?
2) is there an update to the oil drain pipe that I should install?

 

No real way to test the VGT without something to actually actuate it through software. AFA the oil drain pipe IMHO it's a coin toss and not really necessary. I've never had any issues and I'm running a modified VGT turbo.

 

Thanks partsman. Too bad I can't test it with the turbo on my bench. I guess I'll just clean it up, put it back and see what I accomplished. I went ahead and bought the new drain pipe when i picked up the feed tube gasket. Can't go wrong for $25. What bothers me is with the vanes stuck wide open (which is where the unison was stuck), if I understand the theory of operation correctly, that would not cause "no boost detected" codes and should affect the idle more than the WOT performance. I guess I can watch the VGT actuator duty cycle when it is running again. Damn I miss the truck. My Transit just doesn't cut it when I want to scrap copper!

 

Update: Cleaned the exhaust side of the turbo. Unison ring was stuck real well in the vanes wide open position. I was able to remove all the corrosion and get the unison ring and vanes to move easily. Got it all back together and reinstalled it in the truck. Fired it up. No change whatsoever!

Damn! checked all the gauges at KOEO, idle and while underway. Created an X-gauge for boost instead of using the pre-programmed boost gauge, then changed the pre-programmed boost gauge to MAP. So now I can monitor boost, MAP, EBP, VGT. I also have Baro programmed. VGT looks sort of normal. High duty cycle (around 70-80) at idle and goes down to 40s under way but never any lower. MAP is set at inches so I can compare to BARO. MAP never goes above one or two inches above BARO. (today BARO is around 30). Boost never goes above about 1.8 PSI. EBP, however seems to be way off. It sits at about 14.7 with KOEO and doesn't change if I change units from PSI to inches. When under way it will get up into the 20s. I checked to be sure the x-gauge is programmed correctly. Maybe I have a problem with my EBP sensor. I'll have to find it and disconnect to see if it makes any difference. Funny thing: When I first got it going underway, it as usual ould barely accelerate on a not very steep hill, but then it seemed to jump (more power instantly) and a CEL at exactly the same time (P2262). It almost felt like an injector came to life but the additional power was still far from normal power. Still wont rev past 2500.

Shouldn't I be able to hear the turbo spin down after I shut it off? I can't hear any turbo sounds at all...idling, underway or after shutdown. That just doesn't make sense as the turbo had no binds or play at all. Nothing to keep it from turning.