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Old Feb 6, 2012 | 12:22 PM
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T19 reverse issues

Maybe I haven't searched the right places but I couldn't find similar problems. The truck is a '86 f250 4x4 4 speed, with the T19 tranny. Been driven everyday for a couple years, maybe 30 miles/day. Drove it, parked it for the night, then went to start it in the morning to go to work, put it in neutral, let the clutch out, and truck starts backing up. Clutch back to the floor, put it in first then back to neutral, truck backs up again. Put it in reverse, back the truck out of the garage, put in neutral, truck backs up again. Put it in first, ease out on the clutch, the truck stalls. He (my buddy) shut off the truck and drove the wifes truck for the day. So, I think the tranny isn't being shifted out of reverse, and when put it in first, first gear and reverse gear are both engaged and it stalls the engine. What's the next step? BTW, the shifter feels normal and goes in and out of all gear positions. The tranny will be out tonight, I'm going to get a tranny jack today. Is this something that I can fix? Or is it something that I should have a shop do?
 
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Old Feb 6, 2012 | 01:47 PM
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You should have an inspection cover in the floor of your truck.

If so, you can remove the shifter, pull that cover and pull the top off the transmission. You can then see what is going on with the shifter, bushings, shift forks etc.

You might be able to avoid pulling the trans.

Info, parts lists, exploded view:

http://www.motivegear.com/pages/cata...s_tcase_ld.pdf
 
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Old Feb 6, 2012 | 02:28 PM
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Thankyou for the speedy reply. From the exploded parts, it looks like the Reverse shift rail might be the culprit. The only tranny I have been into was a '46 Chevy 4 speed about 11 years ago. I hope this is just as simple, although this is synchronized. I think we are going to pull it anyway because it is very dirty, and I don't like that grime falling into the housing. I am amazed how much room there is to work. Have any tips on doing this myself?
 
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Old Feb 6, 2012 | 04:51 PM
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Serving suggestions:

--spring for the transmission adapter for a floor jack.

--you can support the trans from above using a strap, chain or even a v-belt when installing (you put it around the trans before bolting the TC on and cut it when done)

--a safe and secure worksite is essential. Someone on standby, if not actually helping, is a good idea. You don't want to have to saw your arm off if you get caught or pinned.....

--new clutch while you're at it.
 
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Old Feb 6, 2012 | 06:37 PM
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Thanks again. I got the new clutch while I was picking up the trans jack. I borrowed the Jack from work, so I didn't have to go buy one. I had to drive by Napa on my way, so I stopped in for a clutch, and brake cleaner since everything is apart anyway. I've got a shop with a freezing cold concrete floor, and my buddy is gonna be right there helping me, so no chewing off my arm while trapped.
 
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Old Feb 6, 2012 | 07:34 PM
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The wife always wonders why I flaten and keep the big cardboard boxes. They are a little easier on the backside than the bare concrete and might work for you as well.

Good luck with it.

If you stare at it long enough, the logical sequence of this procedure will become evident.
 
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Old Feb 6, 2012 | 08:52 PM
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Dropping the tranny will be no problem. Without the Jack last night I had two loosened bolts to the motor remaining and the crossmember in place to hold the weight. I just had to wait to get a jack. I have swapped several tranny's and other than the '46, this one is the easiest. My concern is being able to repair the tranny myself, or if I should have a pro do it. So if you have any helpful hints once I get the top off the tranny I could use them. When I had the tranny from my '00 f350, this summer, I brought it to a shop because I heard they were a nightmare. Other than the special tools and the 50 ton press they used, it looked like something that I could do, I'm just not that equipped.
 
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Old Feb 6, 2012 | 11:28 PM
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Serving suggestion:

Once you get it out and cleaned off, pull the top. If you see something obvious, fix it. Then turn it and shift it, maybe even try to turn it fast--don't know how you'd do that, but maybe with a drill or something. If it isn't full of ground up metal, and the gear teeth look good, and it shifted good before, and you can turn it and it's smooth, no clunks, then slap it back in and drive with pride.

Otherwise, you will need a press for bearing and shaft work at some point with it, so I'd be going to the shop with it.

You may split the difference and take the parts that need pressing to the shop.....

Someone else will chime in here with their story perhaps.
 
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Old Feb 9, 2012 | 12:40 PM
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Thanks for your help 85e150six4mtod. When pulling the tranny, I found a torx screw was backed out 3/8". That screw hold the reverse shift lever to the reverse shaft and the reverse idler gear. Since it was backed out, it pulled the lever away, therefore leaving the tranny in reverse. I put locktite on it and screwed it back in, making sure that it was in the correct position. Everything shifts well now. This truck is really taken care of. The fluid, although it's being changed anyway, was still like new. The clutch was new about 10,000 miles ago, so the spring teeth on the pressure plate barely have any sign of wear, and the friction disk still had the brand name paint on it. So in other words, I took the new clutch back. I did put in a new pilot bearing and throw out bearing while everything was down just in case. Thanks again for you help!
 
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Old Feb 9, 2012 | 02:42 PM
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Good job. Thanks for posting the results. Good luck with it.
 
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