What are you thoughts on stacking blocks, personally I just do not think it looks safe. I am looking at some of the more lower end lifts and it looks like they are require you to stack the blocks, is this what are you guys are doing or are you actually getting new 1 piece blocks?

 

Common internet advice is that stacking blocks is bad, stupid, evil, maybe even criminal, could be treasonous. A lot of lift kits are designed to have their blocks stacked on top of the factory blocks. I had a long conversation with the local off road shop (North Shore Off Road) that does most of the serious off road stuff in this area, and they say stacking blocks is perfectly fine. According to this shop, if there is movement between the blocks, the problem is incorrectly torqued u-bolts.

 

My skyjacker lift originally had stacked blocks in the rear. It stayed that way for about 3-4 months, then I replaced the factory block and lift block with a single 5" readylift block. Then I installed a 2" add-a-leaf to stiffen up the back end and give the truck some rake.

 

Stacking a 1" block on a 2" block is very different than stacking up a pair of 4" blocks. The further apart the pack and the spring pad on the axle are, the worse axle wrap will be. If you go tall enough with just blocks eventually something will get stressed to the point of failure. I'd still say why bother stacking two small blocks, just buy a 1 piece block, or use a better method like an AAL, shackle flip or lift springs.

One of the reasons stacked blocks are a bad idea is that people seem to rarely account for how lifting affects the truck's ability to do what it was built to do: towing and hauling. If you use only blocks for a 4" lift in the rear (stacked 2" and 4"), then max out your hitch with 1250# of weight on a 12,500# trailer, you'll have a better chance of axle wrap, binding the driveline, or wheel hop because of how the blocks change how the axle pushes up into the springs. It's like a lever, the further apart the spring pad and the pack are, the worse problems you get.

 

Personally I am looking for a 6" lift. I am guessing the most 6" lifts will lift a truck 4" in the rear. Meaning they would come with most likely a 2" block and a 2" AAL..

I could install that as is just to get up and runnning but know in my mind that I should be getting a 4" to 5" Ready Lift block sometime soon. Right now I am trying to keep the cost down as much a possible to keep the wife happy haha.. With the lifts costing around $1000 its hard to sweet talk my way into it, but its its $100 to $200 here and there its easy haha..

Now I just need to decided what I want to do with my overloads. I dont tow or really even haul, so no sure if I should ditch them or get a lift that accommodates them..

Then I am still trying to decide on the dropped control arm brackets and the 4 links..

To many choices haha!!!

 

I changed my blocks from factory to a Ready Lift 4" lift block (which only adds 2" of lift in the rear). I am experiencing what I can only assume is axle wrap when I accelerate hard off the line, especially with a load on. Does anyone know if this is a normal occurrence when changing your lift blocks, and if so, is there anything that can be done to solve this problem?

 

I dont think you would off of a 4" block, thats the height of a stock block on a f350..

 

That's what I thought, and that's why I didn't go with a bigger block. Maybe a 350 has a different suspension set up, or maybe the problem i'm having has nothing to do with the blocks I changed.

 

It's always better not to stack blocks and use 1 tall block instead, blocks are the cheapest way to get more lift so they are the most common.

A better way is to change springs so you can get away from blocks or at least keep it to short blocks.

I used to have Procomp blocks added to my stock blocks and an add a leaf, which made for a pretty stiff ride.

Now I have 5" lift springs with no blocks and it is alot better:

 

I have stacked blocks in the rear. 1" on top of the factory I think.

I want to get away from that eventually, but its not a high priority.

 

I have the 3.5x3.0 ReadyLift kit that utilizes a single 5" rear block and I haven't experienced any axle wrap. You may want to check your Ubolts and make sure they are still tight after driving a few hundred miles

 

I've checked and checked and re-checked the u bolts, theyre tight. This problem really has me stumped, unless it's another problem that simultaneously occurred at the same time I changed my lift blocks

 

Just a question, did you shim out your rear driveshaft when you added the lift block?

 

No, I didn't do that or know that it had to be done. What does that involve?

 

How many leaves in the back? If it's only 3 leaves, it's the soft pack in the newer F250s causing axle wrap. The rear end squat on the new trucks is ridiculous, there's a reason the Readylift AAL pack comes with 2 leaves now.